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Home brew alignment theory

What did you end up setting them to? or just a reference point?
 
I added one notch to the passenger side, dialed back a notch on the drivers side.

It still drives true and steering feels just right (not dashing and not heavy). But now that the fenders are within .25" of each other, I am calling it good.

I'll keep a close eye on the tires to ensure I didn't cause any abnormal wear, but the drivers side cam was maxed, forcing a passenger side lean of nearly 1.5"

Axle still looks centered, so I didn't need to mess with the track bar, but I did have to rotate the drag link two rotations to get the wheel straight once again.
 
Thanks. Makes sense to me. They’re the set to the same now? Mine are the same from the factory so I will adjust them the same.

I believe I read the spec was 220lb ft so you confirmed that for me. I just checked and my 27mm socket is 3/8” drive, I believe it was for a drain plug or something. I just ordered a 27mm 1/2” impact socket based on your findings.

I plan on using a digital magnetic angle finder and zeroing it on the garage floor and then measuring the caster angle on top of the ball joint. Then I will measure again after I install the lift and see how much it changed.
 
Thanks. Makes sense to me. They’re the set to the same now? Mine are the same from the factory so I will adjust them the same.

I believe I read the spec was 220lb ft so you confirmed that for me. I just checked and my 27mm socket is 3/8” drive, I believe it was for a drain plug or something. I just ordered a 27mm 1/2” impact socket based on your findings.

I plan on using a digital magnetic angle finder and zeroing it on the garage floor and then measuring the caster angle on top of the ball joint. Then I will measure again after I install the lift and see how much it changed.
Correct, they now match, as suggested in the Thuren documentation. I'm guessing with tools and a level surface, it could be dialed in a little better, so I'm sure your approach will be even better.
 
Correct, they now match, as suggested in the Thuren documentation. I'm guessing with tools and a level surface, it could be dialed in a little better, so I'm sure your approach will be even better.
As long as it handles predictably and doesn’t clap out tires then it’s GTG!
 
Thuren says one notch to the rear of the middle for their 2.5” coils.

Mine is one notch forward of middle, so it’s two notches forward from the Thuren 2.5”.

What notch did you settle at? If I followed correctly, you’re two notches back on both sides?
 
Thuren says one notch to the rear of the middle for their 2.5” coils.

Mine is one notch forward of middle, so it’s two notches forward from the Thuren 2.5”.

What notch did you settle at? If I followed correctly, you’re two notches back on both sides?
Correct
 
Happy to report that it was easier than I was making it to be in my head.

27mm socket on the outside
24mm wrench on the inside

Loosened the outside nut, adjusted the bolt with the 24mm welded inside nut, then re-tightened.

Torque wrench broke the bolts free at about 215 ft/lb, so I tightened them up to the same
@LateToTheParty is the drag link length adjusted by the nut that is between the tie rod end on the pitman arm and the drag link itself? I see the adjustment clamp there on the drag link and there is a hex nut but it looks like it’s attached to the tie rod end.
 
I have told the shop do not follow the so called manufacture suggestion, but they insist, my 3500 goes to right, always! I have to pull it back!
 
After the alignment
 

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Passenger side. Truck tracks straight and beautiful. Nice, light steering for a diesel with 37s.
 

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Doing that alignment straightens the springs out real nice and gives a touch more clearance at the rear of the wheel well for the 37s. I barely trimmed anything at all.
 
those numbers look really good. Do you happen to know where the adjustment nut was set before the alignment? Mine is one notch forward of straight down (on both sides)
 
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