Anyone have trouble getting DPF to 650+?

[ErikTheRed]

I've learned that passive regen is occurring at 650+ degrees (I think, depending what/who I listen to) but I have a heck of time getting the DPF to those temps. On the highway (empty), even at 80mph, the Banks EGT3 will usually show somewhere between 600 and 650, with the occasional short-lived temp spike up to 660-670 before it quickly drops down below 650 again. Do any of you fellers experience this? Sure, hook up a trailer or climb some hills and its generally no problem to maintain 650+, but cruising empty on the flats it just doesn't wanna do it. Its hard to clear out my wife's in-town work commute DPF fouling with a highway run when the gulldurn DPF won't get hot enough.

 

[Bret]

Use Archoil. It will help raise the temps some due to the cetane.

 

[ErikTheRed]

Yessir, Ive been using Archoil at the "performance dose" with every tank darn near since I brought it home from the dealership.

 

[Trash Panda]

How long are you driving at that speed?

It usually takes my pickup a bit to get there, but after 20-30 minutes the heat seems to pick up and live pretty close to 700, with spikes up into the 800 degree range even.

 

[Units]

I don’t usually see anything above 650 unless I get about 5g of soot load registering , I can only figure that’s because soot loading of the Dpf helps to hold in heat from the exhaust, once it dips back down to 4g or less I’m usually at 600 - 650 degrees running on the interstate. Running archoil and running on the interstate @80+, in the 600-650 degree range, the estimated soot load will start to drop after about 15 minutes.

 

[56ram2500]

For my 22 I have been seeing faster passive regens at speeds of 50-55 MPH on county roads compared to freeway speeds of 65-72 MPH, I also use Archoil 6500 in every tank, during the winter months ( mid to late Oct to the end of March) I use performance dosage....

 

[ErikTheRed]

I don’t usually see anything above 650 unless I get about 5g of soot load registering , I can only figure that’s because soot loading of the Dpf helps to hold in heat from the exhaust, once it dips back down to 4g or less I’m usually at 600 - 650 degrees running on the interstate. Running archoil and running on the interstate @80+, in the 600-650 degree range, the estimated soot load will start to drop after about 15 minutes.

I'm not educated enough to know whether or not this is accurate, but I hope it is, because its my favorite answer. If accurate, it would mean that the reason my DPF isn't getting hot (650+) is because its not clogged with enough schmutz to "hold in heat from the exhaust". I mean, it does kinda make sense....

I have not had any DPF-related issues (yet, knocking on wood...) Since my daughter recently got her driver's license and has been using our 2nd car, my wife has had to drive the truck back and forth to work, about 10 miles round trip. Normally the truck is only used for towing and hauling but lately it's had to pull short commute duty. After about 7-10 days of this, a block will show up on the DPF gauge. A day or two later, maybe even a second block. Thats when I start to freak out. If I take the truck down the highway for 20-30 mins @ 70 to 80 MPH, it will clear the blocks, even though the EGT3 never reads much over 630-640. My guess is, the EVIC DPF gauge is very sensitive... probably more so than it needs to be for practical purposes... and will register some fouling even at no-reason-to-be-concerned levels. So at what point, or how many blocks/percentage on the EVIC should it take to cause concern? I want desperately to avoid soot-based regens and/or future DPF problems.

 

[Units]

As of this morning, I’m averaging around 600 miles between active regens, mostly soot based as I don’t usually hit the 24 hr mark using my truck as a DD, but when towing my TT I never have any soot based regens, only the 24hr type. I’m at 55k, I don’t have any oil growing problems and my past 2 UOAs have been uneventful. I would just continue to get some good hwy time in and not sweat it. I use the MX+ and the associated app to monitor PIDs and I can visually see numbers, that don’t always seem to correlate to what is shown on the dash; they seem to me to be more predictable. When using the app, I don’t watch the Dpf screen on my dash, it makes me too anxious! lol.

 

[Trash Panda]

I'm not educated enough to know whether or not this is accurate, but I hope it is, because its my favorite answer. If accurate, it would mean that the reason my DPF isn't getting hot (650+) is because its not clogged with enough schmutz to "hold in heat from the exhaust". I mean, it does kinda make sense....

I have not had any DPF-related issues (yet, knocking on wood...) Since my daughter recently got her driver's license and has been using our 2nd car, my wife has had to drive the truck back and forth to work, about 10 miles round trip. Normally the truck is only used for towing and hauling but lately it's had to pull short commute duty. After about 7-10 days of this, a block will show up on the DPF gauge. A day or two later, maybe even a second block. Thats when I start to freak out. If I take the truck down the highway for 20-30 mins @ 70 to 80 MPH, it will clear the blocks, even though the EGT3 never reads much over 630-640. My guess is, the EVIC DPF gauge is very sensitive... probably more so than it needs to be for practical purposes... and will register some fouling even at no-reason-to-be-concerned levels. So at what point, or how many blocks/percentage on the EVIC should it take to cause concern? I want desperately to avoid soot-based regens and/or future DPF problems.

Miles are a pretty inaccurate way to track regenerations.

Monitor your regen status, and note engine hours in between regenerations. It’s a good way to gauge DPF health.

Soot based active regens are triggered when your EVIC hits appx 45% full on the DPF reading.

 

[Units]

Miles are a pretty inaccurate way to track regenerations.

Monitor your regen status, and note engine hours in between regenerations. It’s a good way to gauge DPF health.

Soot based active regens are triggered when your EVIC hits appx 45% full on the DPF reading.

Nothing too inaccurate with using mileage, unless of course you’re sitting in your truck idling for a fair amount of time then I could see how using mileage would be skewed. Even using the “inaccurate” method of mileage, you’re gonna know you’ve got issues when your mileage dips between active regens; which is the whole point of tracking no matter which method you use.

 

[Trash Panda]

Nothing too inaccurate with using mileage, unless of course you’re sitting in your truck idling for a fair amount of time then I could see how using mileage would be skewed. Even using the “inaccurate” method of mileage, you’re gonna know you’ve got issues when your mileage dips between active regens; which is the whole point of tracking no matter which method you use.

I’ve had 12 hour and 24 hour regen periods spanning similar mileage. Mileage has too many variables, whereas run time is absolute, and how the computer manages timed regenerations.

If I was only tracking miles, I’d have no idea there was any difference in the performance of my DPF for those respective periods.

 

[Units]

I’ve had 12 hour and 24 hour regen periods spanning similar mileage. Mileage has too many variables, whereas run time is absolute, and how the computer manages timed regenerations.

If I was only tracking miles, I’d have no idea there was any difference in the performance of my DPF for those respective periods.

Like I said, if you’re idle time is high then sure the only thing to go by would be engine hours. 12 hrs was obviously a soot based occurrence with mileage being similar to the 24 hr mandatory regen, which you state is the case; meaning you had high idle time during that period. Again, without a ton of idle time, mileage is plenty sufficient to watch for variations in regeneration frequency.

 

[Trash Panda]

Like I said, if you’re idle time is high then sure the only thing to go by would be engine hours. 12 hrs was obviously a soot based occurrence with mileage being similar to the 24 hr mandatory regen, which you state is the case; meaning you had high idle time during that period. Again, without a ton of idle time, mileage is plenty sufficient to watch for variations in regeneration frequency.

Under 20% idle time for both scenarios that I listed.

Mileage just doesn’t tell the story that hours of operation does.

 

[Units]

Under 20% idle time for both scenarios that I listed.

Mileage just doesn’t tell the story that hours of operation does.

Drive fast or slow, one way or the other you’ll get there. It’s still driving no matter how you do it. YMMV.

 

[Trash Panda]

Drive fast or slow, one way or the other you’ll get there. It’s still driving no matter how you do it. YMMV.

Let’s put it this way.

There is a reason the ECM doesn’t operate its automatic regens on miles.

 

[KingRanch27]

I monitor EGT2 and EGT3 PIDs for mine (it shows the EGT monitors before and after the DPF filter itself). I'm able to hit 650 pretty regularly doing 59-61mph (really tight window), or doing 75+. I have noticed that you kind of have to keep the accelerator on the bare minimum input to maintain those speeds to achieve those temps (odd description I know). I routinely hit and maintain 750f doing 75+ on the highways around me.

I'm in a DRW config and carry about 500 - 700lbs of gear in the truck at all times, so that may contribute to it. Good diesel and a cetane booster seem to help too.