My 2024 Dually build thread

[Flyin6]

There was some additional assembly needed for the bumper, along with my dropping in a 13,500 pull Ox winch

 

[Units]

Talk about ugly, but very functional, I had installed a bumper for a trip out to Wyoming/Montana, where the year before I had almost run over two really big and dumb mule deer. Had I not seen them, I would have very likely totaled my Jeep. As a precaution, I purchased the pictured bumper to provide some protection.
About as soon as I tightened the last bolt, I started to dislike that ugly thing, so it was just a matter of time before I replaced it.
This is the start of that replacement. While the bumper was off there was a perfect opportunity to install the LED Morimoto headlights

I’ve been eyeing a similar bumper but the pipe style. That looks like a steel craft correct? If it is, how was the quality?

 

[Flyin6]

I’ve been eyeing a similar bumper but the pipe style. That looks like a steel craft correct? If it is, how was the quality?

It is "OK" in terms of strength. Having said that, the "tube part" was not all that robust. I'd say if I hit a white-tail at moderate speeds, it would not survive. The bumper is more of a fleet type bumper. It is not fitted all that well to the body in my view. Looks like a big fat lip hanging off the front.
But, purely from a functional standpoint, it will get the job done, I think. The Expedition One bumper shows a ton more design and fitting, but it is nearly twice the price!

 

[Flyin6]

Here it is fitted to the truck:

 

[Flyin6]

And the finish of the winch stuff

 

[Flyin6]

I later pulled off those Mopar steps and installed a set of AMP Research steps.

The step height is much better (lower) than before, and it has freed up some ground clearance.

You wouldn't think ground clearance would be important with a Dually, but with a long bed, I find it particularly lacking. When pulling off a two-track and onto a field, it could drag, and that is one of the reasons I tossed the factory stuff.

 

[Flyin6]

Next up, the truck got a Banks rear diff cover. This is one very well-built and engineered part.

It features an "O"-ring in place of a gasket and a sight glass, which is great for checking the fluid level.

 

[Flyin6]

Spoiler alert for what I'm currently working on:

 

[Flyin6]

Asking for some advice here before I step off into another tire change.

I am not happy with the small tires on the truck. The swap to the 255R80s helped, but it still looks like a roller skate!

Since I have the HO engine and 4.10 gears, the truck IS NOT hurting for power in the least. The step up to the 33" tire was hardly noticeable. And now the front Toyos have given up showing the typical uneven tread wear, which contributes to a rumble harmonic. So, I am either about to buy a couple of new 255s for the front or upgrade to larger tires.

I want to keep the factory Alcohas. I have run 37" tires on my previous single wheel 3500 with the same Carli lift, and I loved that look. I also see folks running the 37/12.50 tire on these wheels, but I ask, how? The rim is too narrow for that tire...

What would be a good compromise, a 35" or a 37" 11.50 tire?

I am not adverse to putting a wheel spacer in the rear if necessary

 

[gimmie11s]

I have 35x10.50r17's on my factory wheels. Kenda Klever RT. I also wanted to keep the factory rims.

.25" spacer in the rears.

 

[Flyin6]

I have 35x10.50r17's on my factory wheels. Kenda Klever RT. I also wanted to keep the factory rims.

.25" spacer in the rears.

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View attachment 91300

That truck is amazing!

I think the mega-cab short box duallys are the best of all the trucks. I would have gone for that truck by far over my 8-foot box, but my primary need was to haul around that in-bed camper that I take to some far-away places.

And it looks like the 11.50 is the right size. The 35" sizing might work...It would reduce the gearing further, which I want, but would it be enough to fill the wheel wells on the long box dually to make it look proportional?

 

[Flyin6]

I am on my third day of installing the boost tubes, Ram air, and monster ram.

Not a task for the faint-hearted to be sure. I did not expect it to be as difficult as it it turning out to be. There is just not enough room to get to things. The way Mopar tucked the engine in and under the firewall makes getting to things back there super hard.

Then there is this goofy locking tab thing on the electrical connectors. Who invented that? Too bad I didn't run across him in Afghanistan or Iraq before he marketed that thing...We all would be a lot happier ;-)

Actually aside from all the bending over and blood letting, the installation is going quite well
here are the boost tubes:

 

[Flyin6]

Passenger side teardown

 

[Flyin6]

I started with the passenger side since it would be the least amount of work and get some of the bigger pieces installed right away. With some finagling I worked the boost tube into place then installed the Ram air setup. The latter was very easy...Not what I was going to experience moving on to the next project!

 

[Flyin6]

Start of driver's side teardown

That may not look like it, but there is a lot of work that took place to get me to this point

 

[Flyin6]

Reaching way under the cowl overhang is not without risk.

As with any job like this, one has to give up blood and sweat to push the ball down the field!

 

[Flyin6]

Here is the suspect nut that departs company with the grid heater and destroys the engine. Thankfully, that will no longer be an issue.

 

[Flyin6]

Comparing the stick opening from the elbow, which is further clogged by that soot-covered grid heater, there isn't very much room for good flow.

The Bank's system opens that way up!

 

[Flyin6]

Just look at the huge difference in the opening to the engine with the Banks piece:

 

[Flyin6]

Then I wrestled the driver's boost tube into place.

I removed the fender liner to gain access, which made the job much easier, down a few degrees from impossible!