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Truck is "bouncy/springy" when towing?

Slutzk

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Well everyone, i got the truck to 500 miles and finally got to tow my boat for the first time this weekend from storage, to the house and back (about 19 miles 1 way). I am new to towing this much weight let alone more, so its a complete rookie question. I also have a toy hauler coming in the near future that will weight much more so it will help answer my questions for that as well. Tried researching and looked everywhere but cant really find a straight answer. Please bare with me and call me a idiot if youd like, just want to get this right.


As shown in the photo ( posted multiple from different angles not sure it will help) i have a 26ft boat that weights (with boat/trailer/full of gas) is ~6,400ibs. As i have said before here i upgraded from the 1500 and was getting thrown everywhere in the truck to the point i felt unsafe so upgraded to this, plus again, toy hauler so needed an upgrade regardless eventually. Anyways, i have a B&W Hitch with a 7" drop. When I hooked the boat up for the first time I had the ball at the second to lowest slot and towed it like it was nothing and felt great, forgot i was towing at points, however I noticed the tires (its a triple axle as shown) were at a slight angle and could tell the front axle tires werent nearly as "squished" as the rear tires. So I decided after working on it id drop the ball to the lowest slot and hook it up. And it helped "level" the tires/boat out a little bit better (as yall know we're are talking what a 1-2" drop so not significant) but when towing it back to storage at that point, super bouncy over every single bump let alone bigger ones. Almost as if it was gona yank the hitch right off like it felt in the 1500. So..... second to lowest setting it didnt look as leveled but it towed with no issue at all.... but when i have it on the lowest setting it looks more leveled and the front tires looked like it had more weight with rear not being as "squished", (yes the engine bay and the drive is in the back so its much heavier than the front of the hull thats essentially empty).

  • Does that mean when its at the lowest setting it has "more tongue weight" and thats why its bouncy? yet the second notch doesnt look as leveled and the tongue weight is better hence less bouncy?

This thing with my set up says i have over 17,000ibs of capacity, im at what a third of that? I FEEL like i should NOT be feeling this, should tow it with breeze id assume.
I get technically I have slightly more weight on the front trailer axle than the rear because the center of gravity of the boat and trailer must be in front of the front axle to ensure positive tongue weight. The three axles are dependent on each other, so the weight is fairly well distributed but not perfectly.... just not what im visually seeing at all. My truck set up is in my signature so shouldnt be any issues there ether. Even left the stock springs so its stiffer but im bouncing everywhere.
As for a WDH hitch... ive called and tried to find many different ones that would fit this trailer due to the nature of how its so long up front and the bow roller arm is welded to the triler so no moving that... I have found almost none (from the coupler to the frame where the WDH would hook up to is nearly 4 feet so adding if from the hitch its past that, none on the market for that, ive also seen these trailers hundreds of times at the same lake i go to and even longer at that, none one is running a WDH on them). So thats not a option. I also shouldnt need one with this little weight..... I dont think.

Lastly, again ive never towed this much weight, so this could be a "your an idiot this is fairly normal" (as i may be making it sound a little dramatic but its enough for me to feel like it shouldnt be) and this is normal with coil springs to be a little bouncy.

  • Sorry for being all over the place however any thoughts on this how i can help this?
  • Will sumo spring help? (i know i read @Rockcrawlindude thread about his and see it helps with sag will it help with bounce?)
  • Should i have gotten a longer drop hitch or something?
Thanks in advance.
B&T.jpegB&T 1.pngB&T 2.png
 
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Well everyone, i got the truck to 500 miles and finally got to tow my boat for the first time this weekend from storage, to the house and back (about 19 miles 1 way). I am new to towing this much weight let alone more, so its a complete rookie question. I also have a toy hauler coming in the near future that will weight much more so it will help answer my questions for that as well. Tried researching and looked everywhere but cant really find a straight answer. Please bare with me and call me a idiot if youd like, just want to get this right.


As shown in the photo ( posted multiple from different angles not sure it will help) i have a 26ft boat that weights (with boat/trailer/full of gas) is ~6,400ibs. As i have said before here i upgraded from the 1500 and was getting thrown everywhere in the truck to the point i felt unsafe so upgraded to this, plus again, toy hauler so needed an upgrade regardless eventually. Anyways, i have a B&W Hitch with a 7" drop. When I hooked the boat up for the first time I had the ball at the second to lowest slot and towed it like it was nothing and felt great, forgot i was towing at points, however I noticed the tires (its a triple axle as shown) were at a slight angle and could tell the front axle tires werent nearly as "squished" as the rear tires. So I decided after working on it id drop the ball to the lowest slot and hook it up. And it helped "level" the tires/boat out a little bit better (as yall know we're are talking what a 1-2" drop so not significant) but when towing it back to storage at that point, super bouncy over every single bump let alone bigger ones. Almost as if it was gona yank the hitch right off like it felt in the 1500. So..... second to lowest setting it didnt look as leveled but it towed with no issue at all.... but when i have it on the lowest setting it looks more leveled and the front tires looked like it had more weight with rear not being as "squished", (yes the engine bay and the drive is in the back so its much heavier than the front of the hull thats essentially empty).

  • Does that mean when its at the lowest setting it has "more tongue weight" and thats why its bouncy? yet the second notch doesnt look as leveled and the tongue weight is better hence less bouncy?

This thing with my set up says i have over 17,000ibs of capacity, im at what a third of that? I FEEL like i should NOT be feeling this, should tow it with breeze id assume.
I get technically I have slightly more weight on the front trailer axle than the rear because the center of gravity of the boat and trailer must be in front of the front axle to ensure positive tongue weight. The three axles are dependent on each other, so the weight is fairly well distributed but not perfectly.... just not what im visually seeing at all. My truck set up is in my signature so shouldnt be any issues there ether. Even left the stock springs so its stiffer but im bouncing everywhere.
As for a WDH hitch... ive called and tried to find many different ones that would fit this trailer due to the nature of how its so long up front and the bow roller arm is welded to the triler so no moving that... I have found almost none (from the coupler to the frame where the WDH would hook up to is nearly 4 feet so adding if from the hitch its past that, none on the market for that, ive also seen these trailers hundreds of times at the same lake i go to and even longer at that, none one is running a WDH on them). So thats not a option. I also shouldnt need one with this little weight..... I dont think.

  • Sorry for being all over the place however any thoughts on this how i can help this?
  • Will sumo spring help? (i know i read @Rockcrawlindude thread about his and see it helps with sag will it help with bounce?)
  • Should i have gotten a longer drop hitch or something?
Thanks in advance.
View attachment 89517View attachment 89518View attachment 89519
I don’t know much about boats but to me, the trailer looks light on the tongue. Have you weighed your setup?
 
I don’t know much about boats but to me, the trailer looks light on the tongue. Have you weighed your setup?
From the manufactures themselves (ive called them) the trailer is 1800ibs and the boat is 4200ibs. Dry. So with spare tire and miscellaneous stuff add let call it another 200ibs. 6,200ibs total. Add lets say half tank of fuel (i never tow on a full tank and its 50 gal) another 150ibs. so call it again 6,400ibs total. at 10-15% tongue weight i should be between 640-960ibs.
 
Set hitch height so that the boat trailer is nearly level, (frame is parallel to the ground) distributing weight across all three axles.

Go to a scale and get actual weights.

There is a kit that you can use to adapt WD hitches to boat trailers but I don't see them used very often. Boat trailers tend to be fairly light on the tongue.

Assuming you have stock springs in the back and your 5100 shocks are good, you shouldn't have any issue. Maybe time for a new set of 5100s. A truck with a trailer is going to handle differently. Tire pressures?

2" thuren springs, I'm assuming it sits level with no load and you had caster reset?
 
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From the pics I agree with the thought above that it looks very light in front.

If you are guessing at what the tongue weight is, I would recommend either taking it to a scale or buying one of those jacks that allow you to truly measure the tongue weight. If those numbers have actually been calculated by shifting things around in the boat, how did it behave at 960 versus 640?
 
From the manufactures themselves (ive called them) the trailer is 1800ibs and the boat is 4200ibs. Dry. So with spare tire and miscellaneous stuff add let call it another 200ibs. 6,200ibs total. Add lets say half tank of fuel (i never tow on a full tank and its 50 gal) another 150ibs. so call it again 6,400ibs total. at 10-15% tongue weight i should be between 640-960ibs.
These are pretty cheap. If you can get the tongue weight dialed you’ll have a great tow experience imho

IMG_9167.jpeg
 
Set hitch height so that the boat trailer is nearly level, (frame is parallel to the ground) distributing weight across all three axles.

Go to a scale and get actual weights.

There is a kit that you can use to adapt WD hitches to boat trailers but I don't see them used very often. Boat trailers tend to be fairly light on the tongue.

Assuming you have stock springs in the back and your 5100 shocks are good, you shouldn't have any issue. Maybe time for a new set of 5100s. A truck with a trailer is going to handle differently. Tire pressures?

2" thuren springs, I'm assuming it sits level with no load and you had caster reset?
Yes i have stock springs and the 5100s are good. It is a brand new truck with only 500 miles on everything including the Bilstiens.

Tire pressures are at 70.

Its pretty level yes and everything was aligned when suspension/tires were done.
 
Well everyone.....sorry in advance if it is but.... got home from work and looked at everything again messing with things and one HUGE factor (probably the main factor) i didnt realize till now; my gas tank (50gal) sits toward the rear of the boat as well where the back seat is and last time i took the boat out, my drive broke almost an hour into boating, that said...... my gas tanks are nearly FULL! Im almost positive this is playing a very big factor if anything is IS the reason. (again first time towing with this truck which is why i towed it home to fix the drive issue.) I usually run the tank nearly empty before putting my boats on the trailer. Hoping this is it. Will be a long ride to the river but ill be able to test it driving back.
 
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Well everyone.....sorry in advance if it is but.... got home from work and looked at everything again messing with things and one HUGE factor (probably the main factor) i didnt realize till now; my gas tank (50gal) sits toward the rear of the boat as well where the middle and back seat is and last time i took the boat out, my drive broke almost an hour into boating, that said...... my gas tanks are nearly FULL!
Yeah. This will be a big factor. Your engines, fuel tank, etc are toward the rear of the trailer, so the tongue is likely light. You'll need to get weights. If there are CAT scales near you, you should take it and get it weighed. A couple passes would be needed. One with the boat hooked up. Ideally with separate weight measurements for truck front axle, rear axle and boat axles. Then just the truck. You could then calculate the total trailer weight, which is often a lot more than people expect using manufacturer's dry or hull weight numbers, and tongue weight. Ideal tongue weights on a boat are less than on a standard trailer. Usually in the 5-10% range (shoot for 7%) than the 15% for other trailers.

Given that the boat is sitting on a triple axle trailer, I think the weight estimates are low.
 
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May want to adjust tire pressure along with some of the other recommendations.

Granted im running 35" tires on my Power Wagon. But when pulling about 8000lb
35 ft trailer, I only had about 55 PSI in my tires. No issues.
 
Yeah. This will be a big factor. Your engines, fuel tank, etc are toward the rear of the trailer, so the tongue is likely light. You'll need to get weights. If there are CAT scales near you, you should take it and get it weighed. A couple passes would be needed. One with the boat hooked up. Ideally with separate weight measurements for truck front axle, rear axle and boat axles. Then just the truck. You could then calculate the total trailer weight, which is often a lot more than people expect using manufacturer's dry or hull weight numbers. Ideal tongue weights on a boat are less than on a standard trailer. Usually in the 5-10% range (shoot for 7%) than the 15% for other trailers.

Given that the boat is sitting on a triple axle trailer, I think the weight estimates are low.
Triple axle but 5 lug so likely 3x3500lb
 
Put the stock rear shocks back on the truck to confirm the Bilsteins are indeed good. I've had a bad set of brand new bilsteins before and the towing ride was miserable.

300 pounds of fuel in the boat shouldn't matter. Tanks are low and with three axles the footprint is large. It's less of a see-saw and more of a kitchen table.

What was caster set to after the leveling was done? What model front shocks?
 
Well everyone, i got the truck to 500 miles and finally got to tow my boat for the first time this weekend from storage, to the house and back (about 19 miles 1 way). I am new to towing this much weight let alone more, so its a complete rookie question. I also have a toy hauler coming in the near future that will weight much more so it will help answer my questions for that as well. Tried researching and looked everywhere but cant really find a straight answer. Please bare with me and call me a idiot if youd like, just want to get this right.


As shown in the photo ( posted multiple from different angles not sure it will help) i have a 26ft boat that weights (with boat/trailer/full of gas) is ~6,400ibs. As i have said before here i upgraded from the 1500 and was getting thrown everywhere in the truck to the point i felt unsafe so upgraded to this, plus again, toy hauler so needed an upgrade regardless eventually. Anyways, i have a B&W Hitch with a 7" drop. When I hooked the boat up for the first time I had the ball at the second to lowest slot and towed it like it was nothing and felt great, forgot i was towing at points, however I noticed the tires (its a triple axle as shown) were at a slight angle and could tell the front axle tires werent nearly as "squished" as the rear tires. So I decided after working on it id drop the ball to the lowest slot and hook it up. And it helped "level" the tires/boat out a little bit better (as yall know we're are talking what a 1-2" drop so not significant) but when towing it back to storage at that point, super bouncy over every single bump let alone bigger ones. Almost as if it was gona yank the hitch right off like it felt in the 1500. So..... second to lowest setting it didnt look as leveled but it towed with no issue at all.... but when i have it on the lowest setting it looks more leveled and the front tires looked like it had more weight with rear not being as "squished", (yes the engine bay and the drive is in the back so its much heavier than the front of the hull thats essentially empty).

  • Does that mean when its at the lowest setting it has "more tongue weight" and thats why its bouncy? yet the second notch doesnt look as leveled and the tongue weight is better hence less bouncy?

This thing with my set up says i have over 17,000ibs of capacity, im at what a third of that? I FEEL like i should NOT be feeling this, should tow it with breeze id assume.
I get technically I have slightly more weight on the front trailer axle than the rear because the center of gravity of the boat and trailer must be in front of the front axle to ensure positive tongue weight. The three axles are dependent on each other, so the weight is fairly well distributed but not perfectly.... just not what im visually seeing at all. My truck set up is in my signature so shouldnt be any issues there ether. Even left the stock springs so its stiffer but im bouncing everywhere.
As for a WDH hitch... ive called and tried to find many different ones that would fit this trailer due to the nature of how its so long up front and the bow roller arm is welded to the triler so no moving that... I have found almost none (from the coupler to the frame where the WDH would hook up to is nearly 4 feet so adding if from the hitch its past that, none on the market for that, ive also seen these trailers hundreds of times at the same lake i go to and even longer at that, none one is running a WDH on them). So thats not a option. I also shouldnt need one with this little weight..... I dont think.

Lastly, again ive never towed this much weight, so this could be a "your an idiot this is fairly normal" (as i may be making it sound a little dramatic but its enough for me to feel like it shouldnt be) and this is normal with coil springs to be a little bouncy.

  • Sorry for being all over the place however any thoughts on this how i can help this?
  • Will sumo spring help? (i know i read @Rockcrawlindude thread about his and see it helps with sag will it help with bounce?)
  • Should i have gotten a longer drop hitch or something?
Thanks in advance.
View attachment 89517View attachment 89518View attachment 89519
 
I moved from a 1500 to 3500 for my toy hauler. To get a great ride with the heavy tongue weight I use a weigh safe hitch. The equalizer can work just as well, once its adjusted properly. The one great thing about the WS vs the EQ is the WS has a load adjuster you can screw with a 3/4 socket on a battery screwgun. Its the earlier model with the longer distance from the truck and adjustible height on a slide bar. Properly loaded (bars at correct height and screw cranked to shift the load forward on the truck, I was able to get a good tow with minimal porpoising. I suspect the bouncy issue is porpoising caused by trailer weight variations on uneven roads. Your headlights are probably shooting high on every bump. The WDH lets the truck become one with the trailer so front and rear suspension both get involved. Hope this helps.
 
A second thought is that by shifting weight from one axle to the other, you might be reducing tongue weight so much that the motor weight at the back of the boat is actually causing the front of the trailer to lift. Toy haulers have lots of tongue weight but your boat may not.
 
Put the stock rear shocks back on the truck to confirm the Bilsteins are indeed good. I've had a bad set of brand new bilsteins before and the towing ride was miserable.

300 pounds of fuel in the boat shouldn't matter. Tanks are low and with three axles the footprint is large. It's less of a see-saw and more of a kitchen table.

What was caster set to after the leveling was done? What model front shocks?
300# sure does matter when the tank and engine are in the back of the boat and trailer. Probably will have the tendency to sway B&F as well.
Obviously there isn't adequate tongue weight.
 
300# sure does matter when the tank and engine are in the back of the boat and trailer.
Obviously there isn't adequate tongue weight.
OP told us where the tank was, and it isn't at the back edge of the boat. The distance of the tank behind the boat's three axles (if any) is far shorter than the distance in front of them to the hitch. Levers are what they are. The impact to tonuge weight will be far smaller than you imagine.

The engine is always in the same place.

More tongue weight is always better for towing dynamics (I tow our travel trailer at 17% TW) but I don't think that means we get to play imaginary physics.

Towing threads and best motor oil threads are great.
 
300#'s of gas @ 6#/gal.
I once had an Easy loader trailer that the rollers, bunks and winch post were adjustable and was able to move my boat further forward on the frame.
Just a suggestion.
Load coolers - gear, ect., in the bow of the boat.
Good luck.

I was taught that when i first drove OTR that diesel weight should be calculated at 7 lb per gallon, using that advice it kept me out of trouble with DOT at the scales
 
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