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2025 2500 with 11,040 GVWR/over 3k diesel payload?!

I think the conversation is mostly around unloaded ride quality isn't it?

Not necessarily. I don’t want a floaty Cadillac-like ride. I like a planted sporty feel that is capable of soaking up bumps.

When I tow, it will be over large distances with a max weight of roughly 10,000 pounds. I want to be able to tow said weight at 80mph with stability. I think leaf springs of the 3500 non-air will provide that stability for the speeds with a gooseneck and also leave options open later for aftermarket bags (if I need them).

With everything I’ve seen, (been lurking since 2021) something keeps telling me to stay away from a 2500.
 
Not necessarily. I don’t want a floaty Cadillac-like ride. I like a planted sporty feel that is capable of soaking up bumps.

When I tow, it will be over large distances with a max weight of roughly 10,000 pounds. I want to be able to tow said weight at 80mph with stability. I think leaf springs of the 3500 non-air will provide that stability for the speeds with a gooseneck and also leave options open later for aftermarket bags (if I need them).

With everything I’ve seen, (been lurking since 2021) something keeps telling me to stay away from a 2500.

For that load both a 2500 and 3500 will do fine. I’m around 1K miles towing my 10K 5th wheel with a stock 2500 (minus the front sway bar removed) this week, it’s plenty of truck. You will not need/want any airbags with the standard steel springs for the weights you’re mentioning. The standard spring 3500 is the HD suspension with the least bump absorbing abilities, especially empty. There are some aftermarket options to make the springs more complaint thou.

There is nothing floaty about the auto-level suspension, it’s the most compliant HD spring ride but it’s still a HD truck and handles that way empty or loaded. Loaded in alternate ride height with the lower overloads engaged it corners impressively well for the weight you’re at while still absorbing bumps and road imperfections with ease.
 
The standard spring 3500 is the HD suspension with the least bump absorbing abilities, especially empty.

The rear Fox 2.0 shocks for the 3500 non-air that Thuren offers are to help with this.

So many good reviews on this kit to ignore.
 
The rear Fox 2.0 shocks for the 3500 non-air that Thuren offers are to help with this.

So many good reviews on this kit to ignore.

The spring rate is the concern, there is only so much shocks can do for stiff springs on an empty truck, even a MC which is only a couple hundred lbs heavier on the rear axle than a CC.

Thuren is top notch and their products do work well.
 
I don’t want to run into this. My enclosed trailer will be 32’ long. I do plan to buy a speed boat also.

Nobody here has to watch it but he talks about how the his 2500 pulled the weight well. However, the side the side sway would prevent him from driving at interstate speeds and he would have to adjust steering and speed to correct the sway.

I’ve pulled cross country twice (NC to WA and back again / military PCS moves) with spring leaf box trucks weighted down with my entire life inside (to include a 400 pound motorcycle inside) and my car being bumper pulled on the rear. I was able to move at interstate speeds with these trucks without swaying issues. And obviously, these were NOT air assist trucks.

 
Just found my cargo weight. With the added weight of the car and Penske car carrier, I was over 8,000 pounds. I know that’s a small number but I plan to be closer to 10,000.

If I experienced multiple cross country drives with a lead spring truck and car carrier and had no issues with sway going through over passes during a snow storm in Montana, I think my mind is made up for a 3500 for sure. I never considered to incorporate these trips into my decision for with Ram I could get.:rolleyes:

IMG_1639.jpeg
 
Just found my cargo weight. With the added weight of the car and Penske car carrier, I was over 8,000 pounds. I know that’s a small number but I plan to be closer to 10,000.

If I experienced multiple cross country drives with a lead spring truck and car carrier and had no issues with sway going through over passes during a snow storm in Montana, I think my mind is made up for a 3500 for sure. I never considered to incorporate these trips into my decision for with Ram I could get.:rolleyes:

View attachment 88786

I’ve done similar PCS moves and would take my 2500 with coils hands down any day of the week over any of those box trucks, so much more stable at highway speeds. It’s a joke how much better the 2500 is.

My sprinter also has leafs and isn’t nearly as stable as my 2500 towing a 5th wheel. I’ve done the same roads in both rigs this last month and the coils are so much more stable… it’s the bigger picture not just the spring style.

That’s not saying get a 2500, it’s pointing out that it’s an apples or oranges comparison between a van chassis box truck and a Ram HD.

You can likely find a YouTube video about anything not being the right tool for the job. That guy didn’t have the right tool. It’s 50% heavier that what you’re talking about towing, it’s not even a fair comparison. He’s missing a lot more than simply the design of the spring.

The 3500 is a great platform for what you’re wanting, go that route. Simply pointing out that many of us have had both spring and auto-level trucks and would never go back to standard spring 3500’s. There’s a reason there was an uproar when the auto-level was DRW for a short time with 2025’s.

At the end of the day you’re going to likely love whatever truck you have.
 
I’ve done similar PCS moves and would take my 2500 with coils hands down any day of the week over any of those box trucks, so much more stable at highway speeds. It’s a joke how much better the 2500 is.

My sprinter also has leafs and isn’t nearly as stable as my 2500 towing a 5th wheel. I’ve done the same roads in both rigs this last month and the coils are so much more stable… it’s the bigger picture not just the spring style.

That’s not saying get a 2500, it’s pointing out that it’s an apples or oranges comparison between a van chassis box truck and a Ram HD.

You can likely find a YouTube video about anything not being the right tool for the job. That guy didn’t have the right tool. It’s 50% heavier that what you’re talking about towing, it’s not even a fair comparison. He’s missing a lot more than simply the design of the spring.

The 3500 is a great platform for what you’re wanting, go that route. Simply pointing out that many of us have had both spring and auto-level trucks and would never go back to standard spring 3500’s. There’s a reason there was an uproar when the auto-level was DRW for a short time with 2025’s.

At the end of the day you’re going to likely love whatever truck you have.

I’m not saying your coil truck can’t handle big loads. I’m just saying I don’t think it’s the direction I want to go.
 
I’m not saying your coil truck can’t handle big loads. I’m just saying I don’t think it’s the direction I want to go.
With a 3500 you'll have more than enough truck for 10k (bumper or 5er) with plenty of capacity to go bigger in the future. A 2500 is a great blend of DD comfort and for handling that same 10k but most people see that's a safe limit for a 2500, bags or not. I have a friend who routinely pulls a 15k gooseneck behind his 2018 CCSB, stock but with bags and no issues at 70-75 with 4 adults inside. Everyone's comfort level is different.

I considered a 2022 3500 Mega with factory air but figured it would be too much truck if I never did go bigger than my 10k bumper pull setup. I test drove one and the ride was fine (even with 80 psi still in the rear tires), but my 2500 with Thuren springs and bars is much nicer. And after 3 years, I don't see myself ever getting a big 5er so I am very pleased with my 2500. I'd only change it for the 2025 2500 to get the 8 spd. The 11040 GVWR would be nice too but that's just a paper gain, IMO.

If you know you're going bigger than 10k sooner than later, certainly get the 3500. If you don't ever go bigger, you could always downsize to a 2500 in the future, if desired.

Here's my setup and CAT scale numbers, FWIW - https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/lets-see-what-you-are-towing.700/post-328375
 
With a 3500 you'll have more than enough truck for 10k (bumper or 5er) with plenty of capacity to go bigger in the future. A 2500 is a great blend of DD comfort and for handling that same 10k but most people see that's a safe limit for a 2500, bags or not. I have a friend who routinely pulls a 15k gooseneck behind his 2018 CCSB, stock but with bags and no issues at 70-75 with 4 adults inside. Everyone's comfort level is different.

I considered a 2022 3500 Mega with factory air but figured it would be too much truck if I never did go bigger than my 10k bumper pull setup. I test drove one and the ride was fine (even with 80 psi still in the rear tires), but my 2500 with Thuren springs and bars is much nicer. And after 3 years, I don't see myself ever getting a big 5er so I am very pleased with my 2500. I'd only change it for the 2025 2500 to get the 8 spd. The 11040 GVWR would be nice too but that's just a paper gain, IMO.

If you know you're going bigger than 10k sooner than later, certainly get the 3500. If you don't ever go bigger, you could always downsize to a 2500 in the future, if desired.

Here's my setup and CAT scale numbers, FWIW - https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/lets-see-what-you-are-towing.700/post-328375

Thank you for your input.

Do you have factory air on your 2500?
 
Thank you for your input.

Do you have factory air on your 2500?
I do not. I didn’t want factory air on 2500 because it’s a single failure system being the springs for the rear suspension.

I replaced the factory coils with Thuren mid-rate rears and 1”+ fronts, plus front and rear sway bars front sway bar and rear track bar with longer end links.

I added 5000# air lift bags with Daystar cradles. I run them normally deflated and only use when towing heavy to minimize side to side roll. They are pretty stiff when inflated.
If I were ever to get a 3500, it would have the factory air. I don’t have desire to lift my trucks tho. Just a mild front level. I can see where no factory air might make lifting easier but I’m ignorant on lift suspensions.
Also, I wish the GVWR of a 3500 mega could be chosen to be 12k vs the 12,300 so hooking up to a 14k trailer would be under the 26,001 lb limit.
 
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I do not. I didn’t want factory air on 2500 because it’s a single failure system being the springs for the rear suspension.

I replaced the factory coils with Thuren mid-rate rears and 1”+ fronts, plus front and rear sway bars.

I added 5000# air lift bags with Daystar cradles. I run them normally deflated and only use when towing heavy to minimize side to side roll. They are pretty stiff when inflated.
If I were ever to get a 3500, it would have the factory air. I don’t have desire to lift my trucks tho. Just a mild front level. I can see where no factory air might make lifting easier but I’m ignorant on lift suspensions.
Also, I wish the GVWR of a 3500 mega could be chosen to be 12k vs the 12,300 so hooking up to a 14k trailer would be under the 26,001 lb limit.

I like your input. Every comment matters. I’m trying to buy once-cry once. I don’t think I’ll ever say “I wish I had less truck”.

Who knows what toys I’ll be purchasing when I make it to this first retirement from the military right around the corner. :cool:
 
I like your input. Every comment matters. I’m trying to buy once-cry once. I don’t think I’ll ever say “I wish I had less truck”.

Who knows what toys I’ll be purchasing when I make it to this first retirement from the military right around the corner. :cool:
Good luck with your decision. And thank you for your service!

Here’s a ticket of my truck with just me, not loaded for camping.
1755420387950.png

Comparing to my towing weight on rear axle of 5660, I added 2320 lb for total of vehicle weight of 10,860. Still another 380lb to go before hitting the RAWR of 6040 lb. I am over the 10k GVWR but under the new 11,040. I use the Equal-i-zer 4-point WDH. Really helps transfer weight back to the front axle. I don’t have a gooseneck hitch so have never tried that setup.
 
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I do not. I didn’t want factory air on 2500 because it’s a single failure system being the springs for the rear suspension.

I replaced the factory coils with Thuren mid-rate rears and 1”+ fronts, plus front and rear sway bars.

I added 5000# air lift bags with Daystar cradles. I run them normally deflated and only use when towing heavy to minimize side to side roll. They are pretty stiff when inflated.
If I were ever to get a 3500, it would have the factory air. I don’t have desire to lift my trucks tho. Just a mild front level. I can see where no factory air might make lifting easier but I’m ignorant on lift suspensions.
Also, I wish the GVWR of a 3500 mega could be chosen to be 12k vs the 12,300 so hooking up to a 14k trailer would be under the 26,001 lb limit.
Correction. I have the Thuren Front sway bar and rear track bar. Factory rear sway bar just needed longer end links.
 
I have been studying this as well - playing with the ram web site configurations.

So starting with a 3500 SRW megacab and wanting the ram box setup and limited trim ( sort of forced into this by the desire for rambox and megacab )

Air assist leveling package.

What "seems" to happen is that if you click on the package that adds the tow attachment points in the bed, it deletes the ram box and makes it a max tow type arrangement. Not completely sure what this means in terms of what is really happening.

I have not tried this on the 2500 but might be similar.
Rambox and 5th wheel are incompatible. You lose space side to side inside the bed. Some 5th wheel pins on some trailers need alot of room.
 
Rambox and 5th wheel are incompatible. You lose space side to side inside the bed. Some 5th wheel pins on some trailers need alot of room.

Thank you - yes I have learned this over time. I would want the rambox more than a 5th wheel capability, but I can see how that is very much an individual decision.

From the published measurements, the rambox setup can still hold plywood and that is all that I need it to do. I need to visit a dealer and measure to be sure.
 
It is well known that the 10,000 GVWR existed because of regulations/taxes. It would seem logical that they planned on upping the GVWR and designed the truck that way from the beginning. I bet dinner for 2 at Texas Roadhouse that is is just a sticker change.
10000 gvwr is only a limit if you are commercial.
 
Regardless of what is on the labels, what I saw in real life out on I5, with strong variable cross winds, a RAM 3500 DRW with a pretty big truck camper and pulling a decent size boat was among the most stable setups out there. It could have been no wind and you would not have seen a difference in how it was working. Everyone else was being blown around, except the mil transports. The rented promaster I was driving I could keep reasonably solid if I didn't go too fast, but that thing is just mobile blind spots on wheels. Virtually unusable without additional cameras that can run full time.

Required or not, my vote is the 3500 SRW for anything even close to needing it.
 
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