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My 2024 RAM 2500 Hemi randomly won't start

T

troverman

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My truck is less than 6 months old. About 2 weeks ago, I jumped in and headed for work in the morning - all was fine. When I got out of work that afternoon, the truck exhibited symptoms of a dead battery and wouldn't crank or even click. Instead, it barely had enough power to unlock the doors; the instrument cluster gauge needles were trying to sweep without me even touching the start button, and the puddle lights under the mirrors were flickering. I had someone jump me and the truck started up fine. I drove it home and let it run for 15 minutes; shut it off, and drove my other vehicle to work the next day. That evening, I tried to start the RAM and it fired back up normally as if the battery was fully charged. It then operated totally normally for the next two weeks until this past Monday I drove it 215 miles with a trailer picking up something. On the way back, I got a message "Tire Pressure Monitoring Temporarily Unavailable." The very next day I jumped in it to head to town and it exhibited the dead battery symptoms again - flickering LED puddle lights, flickering interior screens, no click or crank. Again, a jump start 'solved' the issue. I let it run for only 5 minutes, shut the engine off, waited 5 minutes, and then restarted it. It cranked completely normally and started and ran fine, but I did have many warning lights on the dash - ABS, stability control, Check Engine, Brake, etc. I assumed these were just the result of low voltage and indeed they went away on subsequent cranks. I scanned for codes and found a number of low voltage codes but nothing else. As for the TPMS, that message is gone but every day the TPMS shows a picture of my truck with the right rear tire in RED, showing 55 psi, and stating to inflate that tire to 65 PSI. However, the left rear tire also shows 55psi yet is listed in White. The front tires show 51psi each and are in White.

Any idea what the problem might be? Not sure if the TPMS is related to the starting issue - after all, when it wouldn't start the first time there were no warnings or messages regarding TPMS. I'm just not happy my 6 month old truck might not start at any given time. Its heading to the dealer next week but I'm curious if anyone else has insight. The dealer told me they had seen a similar problem on a nearly new Hemi 2500 and "it was a bad alternator." I'm seriously doubting that given the nature of how this problem happens and how the truck reacts after its been jump started.
 
I've seen alternators with heating issues. When they heat up, after the engine's running, the windings expand a bit. If there's a crack in a winding, or a loose connection, that can cause the problem. It's a known problem potential for all alternators, not just in Rams. It can cause the symptoms you're experiencing. Runs fine and even charges the battery a bit until it gets hot from engine heat, then fails, maybe supplying a bit of current to help operate the truck but not enough to keep the battery charged. Could also be just a loose belt.
I've also seen this in the voltage regulators on occasion, that work fine until heat starts building.
There are other possibilities, loose battery connections, loose chassis ground, etc.
 
troverman said:
My truck is less than 6 months old. About 2 weeks ago, I jumped in and headed for work in the morning - all was fine. When I got out of work that afternoon, the truck exhibited symptoms of a dead battery and wouldn't crank or even click. Instead, it barely had enough power to unlock the doors; the instrument cluster gauge needles were trying to sweep without me even touching the start button, and the puddle lights under the mirrors were flickering. I had someone jump me and the truck started up fine. I drove it home and let it run for 15 minutes; shut it off, and drove my other vehicle to work the next day. That evening, I tried to start the RAM and it fired back up normally as if the battery was fully charged. It then operated totally normally for the next two weeks until this past Monday I drove it 215 miles with a trailer picking up something. On the way back, I got a message "Tire Pressure Monitoring Temporarily Unavailable." The very next day I jumped in it to head to town and it exhibited the dead battery symptoms again - flickering LED puddle lights, flickering interior screens, no click or crank. Again, a jump start 'solved' the issue. I let it run for only 5 minutes, shut the engine off, waited 5 minutes, and then restarted it. It cranked completely normally and started and ran fine, but I did have many warning lights on the dash - ABS, stability control, Check Engine, Brake, etc. I assumed these were just the result of low voltage and indeed they went away on subsequent cranks. I scanned for codes and found a number of low voltage codes but nothing else. As for the TPMS, that message is gone but every day the TPMS shows a picture of my truck with the right rear tire in RED, showing 55 psi, and stating to inflate that tire to 65 PSI. However, the left rear tire also shows 55psi yet is listed in White. The front tires show 51psi each and are in White.

Any idea what the problem might be? Not sure if the TPMS is related to the starting issue - after all, when it wouldn't start the first time there were no warnings or messages regarding TPMS. I'm just not happy my 6 month old truck might not start at any given time. Its heading to the dealer next week but I'm curious if anyone else has insight. The dealer told me they had seen a similar problem on a nearly new Hemi 2500 and "it was a bad alternator." I'm seriously doubting that given the nature of how this problem happens and how the truck reacts after its been jump started.
Click to expand...
Get use to the TPMS and the UConnect Module not functioning properly. I've had this problem on my 2022 Big Horn since the beginning. I received my New RAM the first week of Jan 2022 and most everything functioned properly with the exception of the UConnect System changing radio stations or my choice of music randomly as well as other UConnect malfunctions with Customer Presets changing randomly. In November the TPMS malfunctioned while on a trip. According to the dealership where I purchased one rear tire had lost about 10 lbs of pressure (Mind you these are brand new tires and wheels). According to two different tire gauges all four of my tires had the correct pressure. This info alone tells me the problem is within the UConnect System. Dealer as well as RAM CARES (RAM DOESN'T CARE) stated I just needed to wait for a Bug Fix which would update over air automatically. Well! It's been 3+ years and I still have the same problem. Dealer will overinflate my tires during Oil Changes as a remedy to reset the TMPS. In less than a week the TPMS malfunctions again. I don't have the time or patience to stop every week to over inflate my tires to reset the TPMS then reduce the tires to the required pressure. Therefore I drive around with the litle Low Air light lit up on my dash and the TPMS on my dash telling me "Hey Idiot" put air in your tires. I now have 3 tires needing air although both my tire gauges identify I have the correct pressure in each tire. This is probably why my truck arrived from the factory with 90+ psi in all 4 tires.

Since the TPMS was mandated by the National Transportation Safety Board I wrote the NTSB regarding the malfunction and they refused to do anything about the mandate. They state they are not responsible for enforcing the manufactures to adhear to the mandate. This is just another government office my tax dollers support that needs the attention of the current adminastration.

Several months later I went to start my truck and the battery was completely dead. I jump started the truck and drove to my dealership. Dealer stated they replaced the battery. I questioned as to if the UConnect System has shorts and they said no it was just a dead battery. Batteries sit on the shelves for years without dying. WHAT CAUSED THE BATTERY TO DIE???????

My conclusion is the UConnect System is shorting out and causing the system errors in the TPMS as well as other random problems such as radio resets. Two Dealer have stated they aren't allowed to order and install new module without RAM's premission. RAM just keeps stating wait for an update!!! Well it's going on 4 years and they haven't updated the UConnect System to rectify the issues. Sounds like the 2023, 2024 and 2025 models continue to have the same issues.

AND BTW!! RAM CARES! I KNOW YOU MONITOR THIS FORUM. SO GO AHEAD! MAKE MY DAY!
 
TPMS and park sensors go wonky all the time. I ignore the light and turn the front and rear sensors off so they don’t randomly advise me I’m close to something or to clean the sensor(after going through the wash). I’m a keep it simple person. I could do without both.


Sent from me
 
So in fairness, after the second appearance of this problem, I took the truck to the dealer and they noted there were about “30 battery related codes.” They fully charged the battery and sent me on my way. I have not had one issue since.
 
All those 30 Battery related codes, yet no problems? Typical dealer fix! Install new battery but ignore the problems that cause the battery to drain in the first place. That's like airing up a tire every day because it loses air, but never fixing the actual problem causing the tire to lose air. LOL
 
troverman said:
So in fairness, after the second appearance of this problem, I took the truck to the dealer and they noted there were about “30 battery related codes.” They fully charged the battery and sent me on my way. I have not had one issue since.
Click to expand...
Hello, Any further issues for you with this? I just had my truck do the exact same thing this morning. Yesterday morning the steering wheel buttons quit working. Then this morning it did just as you described in the opening post of this thread. I'm going to check the battery cables to see if they are loose on the battery. Did they replace your battery, or just charge it up?
 
Week old truck (new to me) '24 2500 Bighorn Hemi with 20K miles. Went camping on Friday, towed like a dream and got better mileage than my previous truck, a '21 Gladiator Rubicon. On Sunday afternoon, as we were getting ready to hitch the camper, the truck wouldn't start. All I heard was click and nothing. I left the tailgate open all weekend so I thought that might be the problem but after reading countless threads and complaints from both 1500s and HDs, I realize this isn't an isolated case. Today is day #7 of my grace period to return the truck. Not sure what to do. I really like it but if its going turn into a battery drain mystery nightmare, I am not sure if we should keep it. I tried my NOCO (half charged) and nothing. Our friends broke out their jumper cables and is still wouldn't crank. We left it connected to see if it would charge some and nothing. We did several things suggested in forums from disconnecting both batt terminals and shorting them out, etc. But nothing worked. We checked the starter cables to see if any were lose but no. At the end I removed the negative terminal and connected it directly to the jumper cable and that worked. I unhooked the jumper cables and reconnected the negative terminal and drove home without shutting the engine off until we parked at home. The voltage gauge was right at 14.1 at the beginning and then went down to 13.7 after driving for tow hours. Apparently, no one knows what is the cause for all these trucks with battery drain issues. Should I return it?
 
LeRamona said:
Week old truck (new to me) '24 2500 Bighorn Hemi with 20K miles. Went camping on Friday, towed like a dream and got better mileage than my previous truck, a '21 Gladiator Rubicon. On Sunday afternoon, as we were getting ready to hitch the camper, the truck wouldn't start. All I heard was click and nothing. I left the tailgate open all weekend so I thought that might be the problem but after reading countless threads and complaints from both 1500s and HDs, I realize this isn't an isolated case. Today is day #7 of my grace period to return the truck. Not sure what to do. I really like it but if its going turn into a battery drain mystery nightmare, I am not sure if we should keep it. I tried my NOCO (half charged) and nothing. Our friends broke out their jumper cables and is still wouldn't crank. We left it connected to see if it would charge some and nothing. We did several things suggested in forums from disconnecting both batt terminals and shorting them out, etc. But nothing worked. We checked the starter cables to see if any were lose but no. At the end I removed the negative terminal and connected it directly to the jumper cable and that worked. I unhooked the jumper cables and reconnected the negative terminal and drove home without shutting the engine off until we parked at home. The voltage gauge was right at 14.1 at the beginning and then went down to 13.7 after driving for tow hours. Apparently, no one knows what is the cause for all these trucks with battery drain issues. Should I return it?
Click to expand...
So today I went to start the truck after parking it on Sunday afternoon and it didn’t start. All I heard was a click, instrument panel blinked for a few seconds then came back. I tried boosting with my NOCO and nothing. Tried with the big battery charger booster and still nothing. Tapped the starter with a hammer and nothing. Charged the battery to read 12.8v and nothing. I called Carvana to come pick it up as I’m returning it. Later in the day I stopped by the local Ram dealer and they told me to have it towed through roadside assistance so they can test the battery, charging system and starter among a few things. Barring a load test, the battery maintained the same voltage since Sunday, yet it won’t start. Just a click sound. This is very frustrating. Luckily we have two other cars. I guess I’ll put some miles on my Wrangler YJ until this is sorted out or Carvana takes it. It only has 20k miles.
 
Could try tightening the nut on the starter, where the cable from the battery connects. Fixed mine.

Also, paragraphs.
 
Wanderlust073 said:
Could try tightening the nut on the starter, where the cable from the battery connects. Fixed mine.

Also, paragraphs.
Click to expand...
Already checked the connections to the starter. I’ll ignore your comment about paragraphs. Didn’t know there were comment structure rules.
 
Tims Ram said:
What did it end up being that fixed it?
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Sorry, the rest of my reply disappeared. I started a process of elimination. Battery read 12.7v, so went ahead and cleaned the terminal cable connectors, tightened all wiring going to the battery and then went under the truck and did the same to starter. I removed the positive cable, cleaned it and retightened it really good. It started right up. A little lazy but it cranked.

Took it to the dealer for diagnostics on the starter and battery. They said both were good. Hopefully they are right. I drove the rest of the day and probably started it about 10 times. No issues. Hopefully it stays that way. Now moving on to getting the remote start working. I got the fob and it looks well made. Need to figure out if my bypass cable works (red one used for other Stellantis vehicles).
 
A click is generally a bad battery or bad connection somewhere. Glad you figured it out.

What are you towing? Gladiator isn't a very good tow vehicle, I own one. Sport S with max tow, highest payload possible on one. Suspension is way too soft. It was fine for my bass boat, but anything heavier I could see being a problem.
 
Riccochet said:
A click is generally a bad battery or bad connection somewhere. Glad you figured it out.

What are you towing? Gladiator isn't a very good tow vehicle, I own one. Sport S with max tow, highest payload possible on one. Suspension is way too soft. It was fine for my bass boat, but anything heavier I could see being a problem.
Click to expand...
We tow a Geo Pro 19BH 4k loaded and a flat bed 18 footer with a tractor from time to time. The flatbed and tractor comes close to 7k. The Gladiator struggled terribly towing that last year.
 
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