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What did you do TO your RAM today?

Weights came in and got them mounted a couple of days ago, then was out of town.

But today I got the blanks cut out and got the rears put on, reused the OEM hardware and one bolt through the liner to hold up the inside edge... fronts will go on tomorrow...
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Gondul nice job! My only concern since they're low, would be if backing up you go down into a small ditch/hole, the flap ends up on the ground moves into the tire and the tire pulls it down? When out camping in the forest I've seen even the factory ones come close to the ground when backing up.
 
Thanks @steve49 ... I honestly have no experience with mud flaps but I see how they are useful when towing.
These are 6" from the ground, which from what I've seen/read is the "recommended" minimum distance (for what *that* is worth).
I'll just have to keep an eye on them and if turns out to be too low, I can always take them off and cut an inch from the bottom.

Thanks @John Jensen I went through numerous images to find a layout I liked, even then, it took some messing with the cardboard to get the height on the body correct so it looks 'right', and at 14" wide, they should be fine for the stock sized tires I plan on running anyway.

The fun part is going to be tomorrow when I start on the front flaps... the cutouts on those are a bit more 'complicated', but measure 3-4 times before cutting, right?
 
Gondul said:
Thanks @John Jensen I went through numerous images to find a layout I liked, even then, it took some messing with the cardboard to get the height on the body correct so it looks 'right', and at 14" wide, they should be fine for the stock sized tires I plan on running anyway.

The fun part is going to be tomorrow when I start on the front flaps... the cutouts on those are a bit more 'complicated', but measure 3-4 times before cutting, right?
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Yep, the fronts are more complicated. If my Mopars weren't already mounted I would send you a paper cutout. I took wheels off and mounted like you, with nuts and bolts. Not an easy takeoff. Sorry about that.
Looking at what you did with the rears I think you'll have no trouble with the fronts. Take your time and enjoy a beer,
 
Today was a nice day to take pictures. Here are the new wheels & tires installed earlier this week.

Tires: Nitto Ridge Grappler 255/80R17
Wheels: Ultra Motosports 049 Predator Dually 17x6.50
Inner rear wheels: Steel 17x6.50
New TPMS Sensors installed.
Hypertech speedometer calibrator: set to 32.00 for perfect match with GPS.

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Very nice looking truck. Good wheel selection, one of the best I've seen lately. I'm a Falken Wildpeak fan but those Nittos look terrific.
 
heyguy said:
That tire size looks perfect.
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I agree. I wish there would be more choices of types available in that size. It is mostly limited to the range of A/T to MUD. No HWY or real snow tires.
 
Put in 58 gallons

Tack welded an old hitch shank and made a flag holder and modified the reducer right fit up nice.

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Took her camping a couple weeks ago. Prepping this weekend to take her again.

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Found a great deal on this girl so parked it next to the Cummins.

Been busy


19 DDSRT
19 Ram 3500 Laramie Megacab HO (patriot bus)
 
MikeXM said:
I agree. I wish there would be more choices of types available in that size. It is mostly limited to the range of A/T to MUD. No HWY or real snow tires.
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Duratracs maybe?
 
MikeXM said:
I agree. I wish there would be more choices of types available in that size. It is mostly limited to the range of A/T to MUD. No HWY or real snow tires.
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Mike,
Falken Wildpeak A/T3s are snow rated and have your size
28030332LT255/80R17E10121/118S6.5 - 8.57.033.110.06321752.53195 / 291080
 
And the fronts are mounted... and yeah, they took a bit longer as the front inner fender has some interesting bumps.
Thanks to @1FastHemi for posting the original idea.

4- 24x30 Composite mudflaps shipped from Northern Tool for just over $70.
4 weights from Bores MFG for just over $50.

The most time consuming portion was getting the cardboard mock-ups correct... the rears were rather easy, the fronts took a bit of shaping.
Jigsaw, drill, and levels were all I used to get these mounted... and I reused the OEM screws (I did add one bolt to each on the inner fender to stop it from flapping/sagging)

I think time/money wise it is close to a wash on building vs buying... just really depends on the individual.

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Gondul said:
And the fronts are mounted... and yeah, they took a bit longer as the front inner fender has some interesting bumps.
Thanks to @1FastHemi for posting the original idea.

4- 24x30 Composite mudflaps shipped from Northern Tool for just over $70.
4 weights from Bores MFG for just over $50.

The most time consuming portion was getting the cardboard mock-ups correct... the rears were rather easy, the fronts took a bit of shaping.
Jigsaw, drill, and levels were all I used to get these mounted... and I reused the OEM screws (I did add one bolt to each on the inner fender to stop it from flapping/sagging)

I think time/money wise it is close to a wash on building vs buying... just really depends on the individual.
Click to expand...

Looks great. I probably would rivet the weights on, or used T-nuts.
 
I installed my spare tire lock. I bought it quite a while ago but I couldn’t install it until o got my jack, as you have to drop the tire to replace the shaft with the lock. By the way, it is now much easier to find the shaft through the hole in the bumper. The original is the 3/8” square shaft that you have to find and get lined up in the dark (under the bed). Now I’ve got a large tube that is easy to see. The actual lock key is at the far end of the tube. Much easier.
 
brutal said:
Looks great. I probably would rivet the weights on, or used T-nuts.
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They came cut for the provided carriage bolts and nyloc nuts... not sure rivets would work, bu the t-nuts likely would (had I thought about it).
 
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