5w40 vs. 10w30 vs..... 5w30?

[mbarber84]

I believe the oil cap has looked that way since 2019.



5w-40 provides the best hot and cold weather performance. 10w-30 may yield slightly better fuel economy.



Aside from B20, since the truck doesn't know if you're running it or not, the oil change interval is 12 months, 15K miles, or 500 hours whichever happens first. Nothing it the owners manual recommends changing it sooner unless the oil change indicator prompts sooner which should take into account severe service. Last year (oil change in sept of 23) my fuel filter and oil change indicators didn't match as my first few thousand miles of use was in the severe category. By the time I hit 8 months on the oil they equaled out. This year (sept 24) my oil change indicator and fuel filter indicator are matched (within 1% since fuel hits 99% as soon as you drive) as my use was not severe for the first couple months.

Deeper in to the owners manual the verbiage is pretty hard to misinterpret, and definitely doesn't elude to any reason other than what's stated to shorten the OCI. Change it when the first of the 4 things happens.

Change engine oil every
15,000 miles (24,000 km) or
12 months or 500 Hours or
sooner if prompted by the oil
change indicator system,
whichever comes first.

This is the most often overlooked paragraph in the book:

Most of the trucks on the road today would qualify under this severe service clause. That oil life indicator isn’t always as good as you’d think. I’ve seen my fair share of UOA’s where the oxidation, TBN, and viscosity were low enough to warrant a change long before the oil life monitor suggested it’s time. Running the oil out to 15k without a basis in fact for its condition isn’t a good way to go. It works for some, but certainly not all.

 

[mbarber84]

This is what i use. in 3 different 6.7's.

View attachment 80683

That’s excellent oil. I use the same.
Can’t say for sure in your application but I’d be willing to bet you have a lot of life left in that oil at 7,500. Could probably extend to 10k easily and likely further depending on your use.

 

[AH64ID]

This is the most often overlooked paragraph in the book:View attachment 80684

Most of the trucks on the road today would qualify under this severe service clause. That oil life indicator isn’t always as good as you’d think. I’ve seen my fair share of UOA’s where the oxidation, TBN, and viscosity were low enough to warrant a change long before the oil life monitor suggested it’s time. Running the oil out to 15k without a basis in fact for its condition isn’t a good way to go. It works for some, but certainly not all.

Not overlooked at all, as I pointed out I have seen my oil life indicator run faster than a 15K miles OCI based on some severe service.

This engine is incredibly easy on oil and most severe service won't effect oil life enough to even think twice about. I've seen plenty of UOA's too and have no doubt the OEM OCI is perfectly fine on a engine in normal working order, which is crucial.

Following the OEM interval shouldn't be a concern for most folks.

 

[mbarber84]

Not overlooked at all, as I pointed out I have seen my oil life indicator run faster than a 15K miles OCI based on some severe service.

This engine is incredibly easy on oil and most severe service won't effect oil life enough to even think twice about. I've seen plenty of UOA's too and have no doubt the OEM OCI is perfectly fine on a engine in normal working order, which is crucial.

Following the OEM interval shouldn't be a concern for most folks.

The oil life monitor doesn’t take into account fuel dilution at all. And that’s one of the largest contributors to oil life degrading faster than normal.

 

[AH64ID]

The oil life monitor doesn’t take into account fuel dilution at all. And that’s one of the largest contributors to oil life degrading faster than normal.

It won’t take into account fuel dilution from an unhealthy engine, but it does take into account normal dilution from a healthy engine… which is minimal to non-existent on the gen 4.5 trucks.

When an engine isn’t healthy all bets are off for OCI, but a healthy engine can easily run the OEM OCI.

 

[mbarber84]

It won’t take into account fuel dilution from an unhealthy engine, but it does take into account normal dilution from a healthy engine… which is minimal to non-existent on the gen 4.5 trucks.

When an engine isn’t healthy all bets are off for OCI, but a healthy engine can easily run the OEM OCI.

The problem I’m seeing with a lot of these trucks is the short-cycle issue loading the DPF and forcing more regeneration cycles. The time between cycles has to get absurdly short in order to trip a CEL, otherwise the truck is “healthy” and no code exists. Lots of these trucks out there running 100 miles between regeneration cycles, in stop and go traffic, and loading the fuel dilution up far faster than it would if it was towing all the time. That’s where you get into a grey area with the oil life. What we classify as “healthy” is a variable. And when the owner of the vehicle has a limited understanding of these systems, or oil in general, they can get themselves into a not-so-great situation with running the oil too far on an arbitrary 15k interval.

We can agree to disagree on this, it’s fine. I see your points and do not necessarily disagree in some cases. But my stance on this will not change. Unless there’s a UOA in-hand to confirm oil health, it’s far better to shorten the interval and change more frequently.

 

[oledirteh]

That’s excellent oil. I use the same.
Can’t say for sure in your application but I’d be willing to bet you have a lot of life left in that oil at 7,500. Could probably extend to 10k easily and likely further depending on your use.

Yea, this was the first oil change since i bought the truck. oil was jet black. its wild that i did the oil change and the motor was way more quiet. i was slightly taken back at how much the motor settled down with good oil. should have got that junk out sooner.

summer months when im towing 13k+ i like to change it more often as the mountains in PA/WV/KY tend to work the truck hard. winter when its cold ill push a little further. but also im so Leary and paranoid i like to keep the oil clean. furthest i go is 10k. yea its pretty costly but its just me. i also grew up with the "Change your oil at 3000 miles" era so its still hard to let something go that long in my head lol

 

[mbarber84]

Yea, this was the first oil change since i bought the truck. oil was jet black. its wild that i did the oil change and the motor was way more quiet. i was slightly taken back at how much the motor settled down with good oil. should have got that junk out sooner.

summer months when im towing 13k+ i like to change it more often as the mountains in PA/WV/KY tend to work the truck hard. winter when its cold ill push a little further. but also im so Leary and paranoid i like to keep the oil clean. furthest i go is 10k. yea its pretty costly but its just me. i also grew up with the "Change your oil at 3000 miles" era so its still hard to let something go that long in my head lol

It’s good oil that performs well even in tough conditions. My last UOA and change was done at 46,642 with 10,886 miles on that oil change. Viscosity was still almost as good as new, oxidation was still relatively low, and TBN was not depleted. I’m in southwestern Pa near the WV border so my truck sees basically the same kind of drive environments as yours.

 

[oledirteh]

It’s good oil that performs well even in tough conditions. My last UOA and change was done at 46,642 with 10,886 miles on that oil change. Viscosity was still almost as good as new, oxidation was still relatively low, and TBN was not depleted. I’m in southwestern Pa near the WV border so my truck sees basically the same kind of drive environments as yours. View attachment 80699

Good to know! ill keep using it for sure. I use that oil, plus the OEM mopar filter. has treated me well for several 100k between 3 6.7's so far!

 

[oledirteh]

side note, who ever put the oil filter on my truck from the factory had to of used an impact. With a filter wrench + a 1/4inch ratchet on it i had to put all of my arse into it to get it to spin off. i had some choice words for that person. uncalled for lol

 

[mbarber84]

side note, who ever put the oil filter on my truck from the factory had to of used an impact. With a filter wrench + a 1/4inch ratchet on it i had to put all of my arse into it to get it to spin off. i had some choice words for that person. uncalled for lol

Yeah the factory filter is notorious for being too tight. Also, just some friendly advice: that Mopar oil filter is actually a Fleetguard LF3972 just painted grey. It’s an $8 filter at most Fleetguard distributors including Geno’s Garage online. For a couple dollars more, you can upgrade to the Fleetguard LF16035, or even better the Donaldson DBL7349. These two are better filters. Better filtering specs and also they both use the synthetic filter media. The Mopar filter is a paper (cellulose) media.

 

[oledirteh]

Yeah the factory filter is notorious for being too tight. Also, just some friendly advice: that Mopar oil filter is actually a Fleetguard LF3972 just painted grey. It’s an $8 filter at most Fleetguard distributors including Geno’s Garage online. For a couple dollars more, you can upgrade to the Fleetguard LF16035, or even better the Donaldson DBL7349. These two are better filters. Better filtering specs and also they both use the synthetic filter media. The Mopar filter is a paper (cellulose) media.

i found the fleetguard, but cant find the Donaldson DBL7349 on genos. by chance you got a link?


after some searching, i found them at https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/donaldson-oil-filter-dbl7349 which i can pick up local on my way home from work. merica.

 

[AH64ID]

Good to know! ill keep using it for sure. I use that oil, plus the OEM mopar filter. has treated me well for several 100k between 3 6.7's so far!

Some additional information on the filters being discussed.

The OEM filter is 30µ @ 95%, and only rated at 8.72GPM.

The DBL7349 is 15µ @ 98.7% and has a better flow rating than the OEM filter too with a 20 GPM rating.

The LF16035 is 30µ at 100%, but also only rated at 8.72 GPM

You can also get the Amsoil EaO80 from your Amsoil dealer, it's a little more money than the DBL7349 but is pretty similar 20µ @ 99%.

 

[oledirteh]

Some additional information on the filters being discussed.

The OEM filter is 30µ @ 95%, and only rated at 8.72GPM.

The DBL7349 is 15µ @ 98.7% and has a better flow rating than the OEM filter too with a 20 GPM rating.

The LF16035 is 30µ at 100%, but also only rated at 8.72 GPM

You can also get the Amsoil EaO80 from your Amsoil dealer, it's a little more money than the DBL7349 but is pretty similar 20µ @ 99%.

yea, i can get the Donaldson from fleetpride which is across the street from where i work. ill swing by this week and pick up 2-3 to have in stock.

 

[56ram2500]

i found the fleetguard, but cant find the Donaldson DBL7349 on genos. by chance you got a link?


after some searching, i found them at https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/donaldson-oil-filter-dbl7349 which i can pick up local on my way home from work. merica.

I buy my Donaldson DBL 7349 oil filters 3 for $52.00 from Cross Filters, the price they list includes shipping: https://crossfilters.com/products/d...ll-flow-donaldson-blue?variant=42426482721021
I also buy my Fleetguard front fuel filters from them last time I bought they were priced at 2@102 now $2@105, I like Genos but the $9.95 to ship one filter adds extra $$ to the price

 

[ErikTheRed]

I sure wish the Donaldson filter had the flats at the base for a filter socket. Using a strap wrench on these trucks is a PITA. I don't do the through-the-fender-well deal, I drive the truck up on ramps and scooch my ol' portly self under there with a 18" extension on my ratchet and get at the filter from underneath. Its for that reason that I have always used the Fleetgaurd. (also, the ramp method lets me use a 5 gallon bucket to drain, which is handy.)

Fram filters are ass, but you gotta admit the textured grippy on the butt of the filter is a genius idea. This should be a standard feature on ALL spin-on oil filters.

 

[oledirteh]

thing i noticed between the 21 and 24's is they rerouted stuff just enough that the filter drops down better, and when you have to turn it sideways theres no obstructions in the way and you can pull the filter right out. seemed alot easier to get the filter back up in there and spun on now too. or maybe i was just spot on this time.

 

[AH64ID]

I sure wish the Donaldson filter had the flats at the base for a filter socket. Using a strap wrench on these trucks is a PITA. I don't do the through-the-fender-well deal, I drive the truck up on ramps and scooch my ol' portly self under there with a 18" extension on my ratchet and get at the filter from underneath. Its for that reason that I have always used the Fleetgaurd. (also, the ramp method lets me use a 5 gallon bucket to drain, which is handy.)

Have you tried that on your new truck yet?

 

[oledirteh]

Have you tried that on your new truck yet?

he brought up a good point with the filter, maybe ill go fleetguard cause with the filter wrench its just easy to reach in the fender to spin it off. there is no way i im crawling under the 3500 lol.

 

[AH64ID]

he brought up a good point with the filter, maybe ill go fleetguard cause with the filter wrench its just easy to reach in the fender to spin it off. there is no way i im crawling under the 3500 lol.

Hasn’t ever been an issue changing the Donaldson’s for me. My 2018 was a little more difficult, but the 2022 is easy to change.

There isn’t a good way that I’ve found to come from bottom on these trucks with the “new” crossmember, so I go thru the fender.

If you want fluted then I’d run the Amsoil as it has better specs than the Fleetguard, but nothing beats the Donaldson.