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Am I good towing our TT with a B&W Tow & Stow or should I keep using a WDH?

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btega777

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Hello, this is my first post in the forum. My question surrounds whether to continue using a WDH or not. We recently purchased a 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie gasser. We have a 2023 Keystone Bullet 273BHSWE TT with a GVWR of 7600 lbs. Our previous tow vehicle was a Suburban with a class IV hitch so our WDH setup no longer fits our RAM 2500 class V receiver. So, in a nutshell, my question surrounds where to go from here. I know there are adapters but would prefer not going that route and I have been reading through forum threads but hoping to get some suggestions based on what we have.

Looking for suggestions on how best to move forward. I am looking at the B&W tow and stow with either a 5 in or 7 in drop. I am leaning towards the 7 in because the one we have now looks to be the size of the 5 in and was already on lowest setting with Suburban) The WDH setup I have is rated 10k lbs, same as sway bars so I guess I could take it all apart and put the WDH w/sway bar piece onto the B&W or do I even need the WDH w/ sway bars anymore? Or should I be looking at an entirely new WDH set up?

Distance between ground and bottom of receiver is 22 inches. Distance between ground and tongue lip on trailer is 18.5 inches.

Appreciate your time.
 
I have both a WDH and a B&W Stow and Tow… the B&W is for short trips and the WDH is for anything out of town. The WDH simply provides a better towing experience even though it’s 100% not required.

The only exception is our small TT, I will do short all highway trips with the B&W but it only has ~600lbs of tongue weight. If it’s more than a couple hundred miles or the wife is taking the combo solo I’ll put the WDH on just for the impact on driver fatigue.

Long story short, the B&W will get the job done but a WDH will do it better, smoother, and safer.

I kept the head/bars from the 2” WDH I had and bought a 2.5” shank with the proper drop for my 2.5” receiver.
 
AH64ID said:
I have both a WDH and a B&W Stow and Tow… the B&W is for short trips and the WDH is for anything out of town. The WDH simply provides a better towing experience even though it’s 100% not required.

The only exception is our small TT, I will do short all highway trips with the B&W but it only has ~600lbs of tongue weight. If it’s more than a couple hundred miles or the wife is taking the combo solo I’ll put the WDH on just for the impact on driver fatigue.

Long story short, the B&W will get the job done but a WDH will do it better, smoother, and safer.

I kept the head/bars from the 2” WDH I had and bought a 2.5” shank with the proper drop for my 2.5” receiver.
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I think you answered your own question a few times. Stay with the WDH and if you feel like it on shorter trips use the B&W
 
I would use the WDH, especially on something that's 31' long. For the sway control alone.

If you want a less bulky, lighter, easier to use WDH check out the Andersen. Takes me like 2 minutes to hook up, and not even 30 seconds to disconnect.
 
Riccochet said:
I would use the WDH, especially on something that's 31' long. For the sway control alone.

If you want a less bulky, lighter, easier to use WDH check out the Andersen. Takes me like 2 minutes to hook up, and not even 30 seconds to disconnect.
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I wouldn’t waste my time or money with an Andersen WDH. Highly ineffective and overpriced.
 
Riccochet said:
It's called leverage. You know, physics. And it definitely works. I've taken my rig to the scale.
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that does not change the fact that there is much cheaper and more effective units out there. Anderson fails for most of its products.
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
that does not change the fact that there is much cheaper and more effective units out there. Anderson fails for most of its products.
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One's that weigh 60 lbs? I've had an Equalizer, Blue Ox and the coveted Pro Pride. Honestly didn't care for any of them.

There's nothing wrong with the design or function of the Andersen WDH. Light weight, easy to setup and take down, quiet, distributes weight back to the steer and trailer axles.

Not sure what you are on about. It's $600, same as the Equalizer, Blue Ox, the new Eaz-Life Recurve. There are cheaper ones, and they all suck.
 
Haters going to hate, the Andersen is very effective and very nice to use. Granted, my trailer is probably smaller and lighter than most on an HD forum so I can't make any claims to how it works on large 30+ foot trailers. But for my setup, it has been more effective than the Husky centerline I used previously. Both in terms of vertical (porpoising) and horizontal sway. If you need more control you just go another half thread and it's done, no mucking around with washers and heavy duty wrenches etc, no greasy bars to store, no clunking and groaning through campgrounds. Setup and tear down is near instant, it's light and easy on the back, whats not to like.

This is one of the few setups that doesn't use dynamic/tensions bars, the chains are a static force that doesn't change pressure as you go over bumps. This means the only "suspension" is your rear coils/springs, whereas with the traditional trunion bar setups like my old centerline, the bars themselves act as springs and you end up with two spring forces and my setup always rode like cr@p down the road. The Anderson has been a game changer that way. And it also provides sway control with the friction in the head of the hitch itself.
 
The chains absolutely change tension as the truck/trailer goes over bumps, otherwise raising the tongue jack to connect/disconnect wouldn’t have any effect on the chains.

The reason you don’t feel it as much is that it’s not an effective angle for the chains to apply enough leverage, this is also why it’s very ineffective at transferring a proper amount of tongue weight.
 
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