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Receiver Pin Locks

Likely slack in the holes on the receiver, hitch, and/or pin would be my guess.
Most of the above post would seem to be newer trucks and I wouldn't think they would have slop in the receiver hitch. I used mine pin in a 97 GMC K3500, 2000 Chevy 2500 and now my 2020 Ram. The ball mount with first two was old and used when I got it in 1995 it didn't have slop in the pin holes.

I wonder if they have been yanked on too hard (fast starting & slamming on the brakes)?
 
What is causing these pins to bend?

I’ve had the same stainless steel pin on three different trucks since around 2010 without it bending. It’s not a locking pin though.

For this Ram I got a cushioned shank ball mount, but it has been solid mounted otherwise.

For me, it was a 3" receiver with a 2.5" sleeve and a 2" sleeve inside of that. It's not possible to eliminate movement (up/down or back and forth) between that many components. It doesn't help that today's roads and highways are in worse shape than they have ever been.
On the Ford I welded the 2.5" sleeve into the 3" receiver and bought a 2.5" shank hitch. I also switched to the Bolt lock at the same time. Problem solved.
I still use the Bolt on my Ram (using a spare Ford key I kept) and have had no issues with it. I only pull a pontoon/trailer and the occasional Blue-Boy with it now.
 
What are yall using for receiver pin locks? I've been through 3 of them and they all bend to hell. A TowWorks, Rhino and this bROK Warrior.

This thing has 1 trip on it pulling my travel trailer.

AP1GczM8pDxe25izFAbhIq95bDIJP_VSGpJn7Njy6pdF8wWT4W3-wZK7t4qXEgfyEiGB-u02bE5Do7ayW-VsfyGGU8hDAdvKbplV_yykaRPlDToM1cx21I4Yc1zU2vulAnDyVtCyLu-WRc923Re79CBf8CBYRkbVQoOHadJu2Vye__dFGtPEbkxG2TbhcfbIboghTzAM_XJzZZVaANCcxbeX8ksNA25JnyrrI-I0sgvDzJ1MBKxlLcr6iGSvJEwClp8Q4VVAc1gMmfCkrSi913CgBvM5XT_77SdhepS2zQCEGyvGCQnkGciuM9kvGNGDONvDwuvvXmQ6hA7Ohz9ArKAgaxis8JbBoZxkjsZiFT-E4_hY9H6nse-TGDaGG7krU7ke4Ug9ZOU00KdpZ72O5KooP9OBYsJ-V8HH8YWj9uBDoUzUlEhKFkvFH9m-W2xTa9diQIhTIKrRDVlFuapkHBzDesLh_GSHVnrmM85A0dJAegcPLCeizqpaA0G3iMIS9WxNzt5h60F9vTYpSCDRouQ-4g4oNDPDeAitTMwiqZpQKBc7IsgPNiNK5kPhI4aNoH3wUFom0zGF5NyfCKSpjaGF8X3i1_zGVp2MX4fUvLPrxxOB69iXqQQtTrh_aiGhmSBm5yDHrmrf02U5fWnxLXej2aAucYe0_rdebUd7-ewS5psX-6PvV3eLGY-f_96gJgw92pUtPJL0-PBBCWXVYbkVsBehW_9AK8rNc2dXyqk2S7H17Q1z_nbN8_54fxo8pJKCi1xRD1xG0mNoZYza4N0mXbGRM6fGxCrEGg5qInMrvPU37RxqV884a1AwWOO5MDE6c_34Bc4m2AZxeArzjTjlE45MbhAfL2779JU4WaK1V8slxFh7c1YFC6UQahkK_lgQUx4sKlxFEARuo1Mbkq7qd0YfN6PssSvd30-lYvvu2hWyeWNuxodaUHiUmVSWVfE7B_K58RVdChaVQA4KWuE9O-Nl2v5hFXC8=w2274-h1279-s-no-gm
This is what I have had since 2018 and its still going strong. https://trimaxlocks.com/shop/receiv...nless-steel-5-8-key-receiver-lock-3-1-2-span/
 
What is causing these pins to bend?

I’ve had the same stainless steel pin on three different trucks since around 2010 without it bending. It’s not a locking pin though.

For this Ram I got a cushioned shank ball mount, but it has been solid mounted otherwise.
Mine was fine until i pulled a truck out of the ditch i just put my web sling in the receiver with the pin in it so its no surprise it bent i just straightened it and its been fine since i only use it with my 2.5” hitch no 2” with adapters.
 
I use a grade 8 bolt and nyloc plus an anti-rattle clamp. Never a problem. Not many thieves running around with a 15/16 1/2” drive deep socket and 15/16” end wrench.
 
I use a grade 8 bolt and nyloc plus an anti-rattle clamp. Never a problem. Not many thieves running around with a 15/16 1/2” drive deep socket and 15/16” end wrench.
You are right i usually just have 2 adjustables lol. I used to use the bolt but since going to a 2.5” receiver and the bolt being to short it now lives on my ranger
 
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Back when I cared about my trailer hitch I used a 5/8 grade 8 bolt with a metal lock nut.
 
I would not recommend the locking hitch pin from Proven Industries. I was using one for awhile because it was keyed alike with the Proven coupler lock on the trailer. Back in late April suddenly without warning the hitch and shank pulled out and the trailer dropped down on the shank. While I was only doing 35 at the time I couldn't pull over once I realized what happened as I was on an overpass. Hitting the brakes (before I knew it was out) caused the jack head to hit the tailgate dimpling it. The hitch head destroyed the bumper overlay. Body shop is still waiting on a new tailgate and overlay. Need a new EQ hitch and shank as well. In short the hitch pin was gone, locking head came off and pin fell out. No clue why as it was there that morning and checked.
 
pic of my bulletproof after thousands of miles towing. Pin is still like new. O-ring has kept the lock clean.

Note that I bent the head of my cotter pin so I could grab it easier.

IMG_7062.jpeg
IMG_7063.jpeg
 
Not even close. My travel trailer is around 8000# loaded.
Is your hitch shank hollow or is it solid? If it’s hollow that makes sense it is bending, but at the same point it’s not gonna shear. Stainless is not as strong for bending but its still got great shear strength
 
Is your hitch shank hollow or is it solid? If it’s hollow that makes sense it is bending, but at the same point it’s not gonna shear. Stainless is not as strong for bending but its still got great shear strength
Solid shank, both of my hitches. I use the Andersen WDH for the travel trailer, and a Curt adjustable dual ball for everything else. Both are 2 1/2" shanks.
 
Solid shank, both of my hitches. I use the Andersen WDH for the travel trailer, and a Curt adjustable dual ball for everything else. Both are 2 1/2" shanks.
Interesting thats puzzling, i have the dual ball curt aswell its a great hitch
 
Is your hitch shank hollow or is it solid? If it’s hollow that makes sense it is bending, but at the same point it’s not gonna shear. Stainless is not as strong for bending but its still got great shear strength
All my shanks have been hollow except for this last one that is cushioned and really it’s hollow with a slug in the middle.
 
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