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Advice Requested: Ordering a new RAM 2500 vs. RAM 3500 to be used for daily driving and sheep hauling in South Dakota

SamCaspers

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Howdy!

I currently reside in Texas but am planning to move to north central South Dakota within the next three years. I work as an aviation mechanic but have ambitions to start a hobby sheep farm. I'm seeking advice on choosing a daily driving gas truck capable of hauling myself (200 pounds), my wife (160 pounds), two Great Danes (400 pounds), and occasionally a 7-foot by 14-foot tandem axle horse trailer (3500 pounds), loaded with 10 to 14 ewes (1600 to 2500 pounds).

Initially, I considered the DJ platform RAM 2500 Tradesman 4x4 with a crew cab, 6’4” bed, Off-Road Package, Snow Chief Group, dual alternators, 6.4L Hemi V8, and 4.10 rear end. However, I’m concerned about whether it is the smart choice for a truck I plan on keeping for 20-30 years. This has led me to also consider the D2 platform RAM 3500 Tradesman SRW 4x4 with a crew cab, 6’4” bed, Snow Chief Group, dual alternators, 6.4L Hemi V8, and 4.10 rear end.

The payload capacity differs significantly: the RAM 2500 can handle a maximum of 3360 pounds, while the RAM 3500 can manage up to 4240 pounds.

I'm not interested in the RAM 2500 equipped with the 6.7L Cummins I6 due to its decreased payload (880 pounds less), increased purchase cost ($9350 more), higher maintenance cost ($90 more per oil change), and potential issues with cold weather performance. For me, the benefits of lower depreciation and increased towing capacity (2210 pounds more) do not outweigh these drawbacks.

What are your thoughts? Would you spec either truck differently from a mechanical perspective?

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If you're concerned about future payload, the 3500 with air assist actually rides pretty nice for a 1-ton truck.

You'll have none of the potential truck sway issues you might encounter in the (inboard) coil sprung/trackbar rear suspension of the 2500.

IMHO, the 3500, unless it's a commercial contractor looking to stay under the 10K GVWR licensing issue, will have better potential resale value even if you never intend to sell it. Life happens.
 
If you get a 3500 get the factory air ride suspension!!!

Don’t let anyone talk you out of the 4.10 gears with the Hemi it’s a sweet combination with either a 2500 or 3500. I really like my 2500 gasser with the 4.10 gears.

With the 2500 even the coil spring trucks ride good.
 
The 3500 def rides more like a truck, but I don't find them horrible, so I'd test drive both and if you don't notice a huge difference, get the 3500. I have a 2500 SRW and a 3500 DRW. I'll say that I hated towing a tow behind with the 2500, It just swayed way too much for my liking. My 2500 is now my daily driver and off road rig, and the dually gets used for standard truck stuff, family hauling, and towing duty.

I think in the long term you'll likely be much happier with the 3500 assuming the ride seems similar. Some people tend to be very sensitive to the ride differences, and others don't notice at all. I'd drive both back to back and see what you think personally. Again, keep in mind that the 3500 is going to feel much more stable towing, especially if it's a tow behind trailer.

As others have mentioned, the factory air ride 3500 is a nice potential upgrade to "get the best of both worlds". To elaborate on why, they pull some of the leafs so that you get a generally softer ride while unloaded, and the airbags inflate while loaded to help with the weight. Assuming you're willing to deal with a slight amount of additional cost and a hair more complexity if issues arise, then the air ride is a worthwhile upgrade on the 3500.

I would not recommend the air ride for the 2500, as it replaces the coil springs with aig bags completely. While this can result in a supremely comfortable ride, it provides absolutely no additional stability. If you find that you like the ride of the 2500 a lot more than the 3500, I'd recommend the standard coil sprung 2500 with a set of aftermarket airbags with daystar cradles. Not only will these airbags help level your truck with a trailer, but because they are mounted further outboard than the coils they will add stability.
 
The 3500 def rides more like a truck, but I don't find them horrible, so I'd test drive both and if you don't notice a huge difference, get the 3500. I have a 2500 SRW and a 3500 DRW. I'll say that I hated towing a tow behind with the 2500, It just swayed way too much for my liking. My 2500 is now my daily driver and off road rig, and the dually gets used for standard truck stuff, family hauling, and towing duty.

I think in the long term you'll likely be much happier with the 3500 assuming the ride seems similar. Some people tend to be very sensitive to the ride differences, and others don't notice at all. I'd drive both back to back and see what you think personally. Again, keep in mind that the 3500 is going to feel much more stable towing, especially if it's a tow behind trailer.

As others have mentioned, the factory air ride 3500 is a nice potential upgrade to "get the best of both worlds". To elaborate on why, they pull some of the leafs so that you get a generally softer ride while unloaded, and the airbags inflate while loaded to help with the weight. Assuming you're willing to deal with a slight amount of additional cost and a hair more complexity if issues arise, then the air ride is a worthwhile upgrade on the 3500.

I would not recommend the air ride for the 2500, as it replaces the coil springs with aig bags completely. While this can result in a supremely comfortable ride, it provides absolutely no additional stability. If you find that you like the ride of the 2500 a lot more than the 3500, I'd recommend the standard coil sprung 2500 with a set of aftermarket airbags with daystar cradles. Not only will these airbags help level your truck with a trailer, but because they are mounted further outboard than the coils they will add stability.
I prefer the ride of the 2500 as it feels more car-like, whereas the 3500 SRW is very stiff. However, I have never towed anything with either truck. The one I did drive with the factory rear air suspension was a 3500 DRW.
 
I prefer the ride of the 2500 as it feels more car-like, whereas the 3500 SRW is very stiff. However, I have never towed anything with either truck. The one I did drive with the factory rear air suspension was a 3500 DRW.
A DRW will 100% be more traditionally truck like than a SRW 3500, so if you're not looking for a DRW, I would try a SRW 3500 and compare that. Again you have options.
 
I prefer the ride of the 2500 as it feels more car-like, whereas the 3500 SRW is very stiff. However, I have never towed anything with either truck. The one I did drive with the factory rear air suspension was a 3500 DRW.

Without exception, ALL of us with 3500 SRW lower the tire pressure when not towing. It greatly improves the ride. The dealers likely have the pressures up at door sticker or higher.

FWIW, I did keep my last truck for 16 years and about half way in, regretted not buying a 3500.
 
Without exception, ALL of us with 3500 SRW lower the tire pressure when not towing. It greatly improves the ride. The dealers likely have the pressures up at door sticker or higher.

FWIW, I did keep my last truck for 16 years and about half way in, regretted not buying a 3500.
When you aren't towing, what PSI are your tires at? How often do you replace your brakes and with what brand/model?
 
When you aren't towing, what PSI are your tires at? How often do you replace your brakes and with what brand/model?

I run Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 285/65R20 and around 55-60PSI front and 45-50PSI rear not towing. Keep in mind the Cummins weight up front. Depends on if my hitch and/or genset is in the bed, I'm hunting (will go even lower), etc.

With a diesel, with the exhaust brake, we don't replace brakes nearly as often. That said. OEM or Powerstop Z36. Haven't seen anyone give these NRS pads a try yet.

 
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