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Hitch options for 2500

How would the weight not shift aft?
Pivot point moved back, the tongue weight is still applied to the exact same position in a bed - where offset ball drops into the GN hitch. Works the same as swapping extended kingpin on 5er, moves the trailer back but not the weight.
This or my understanding of physics is completely wrong.
 
Pivot point moved back, the tongue weight is still applied to the exact same position in a bed - where offset ball drops into the GN hitch. Works the same as swapping extended kingpin on 5er, moves the trailer back but not the weight.
This or my understanding of physics is completely wrong.

Extend that ball to the back bumper. Where is the weight?

Extended kingpin (pinbox) on a 5th wheel is a longer lever and leads to pinbox frame damage.

You can't just "move" a fulcrum point and not change the lever.
 
Extend that ball to the back bumper. Where is the weight?

You can't just "move" a fulcrum point and not change the lever.
Yeah thinking about it now, I was wrong, it isn't a rigid or semi-rigid attachment...
 
So an update that may save some grief for others trying to do this. I had decided on the Gen-y hitch along with their offset.

Their offset requires the puck system, so ordered the Mopar 5th wheel prep package (82215838AB). Unfortunately, I couldn't find anyone to install it. Hitch places won't touch it, and even most dealers won't. Finally got one dealer quote and it was going to be $1719 just for the labor (8 hour estimate). Forget that.

Plan B which I'm happy with is to stay with the B&W Turnoverball but also get the B&W offset:

Much less expensive, easier and cheaper install, and result is the same. The B&W has a little bit less load rating (20k vs 26k) but will be fine for my rig.

Side note, don't forget about the truck bed wiring harness. There is a Mopar one for around $130, but Curt makes one too, looks identical and it's $72. Very easy to self-install, takes 30 minutes. Dealer quoted $622 to do that. o_O
 
FWIW here's my setup and experience with it:
It's a Cougar "half ton towable" (GVWR 10000 lbs) that's right at 30 feet long. My 6'4" bed suggested a slider hitch. I had an auto-slider in an F-250 years ago, but decided to go with a manual slider this time due to weight. I installed the Curt Q-20 slider with pucks. Turns out the Cougar's front cap is shaped to increase clearance between the camper and cab in tight turns. I did a complete U-turn without using the slider, and while I didn't get out to measure my sense was I had plenty of clearance. The Q-20 was also much quieter than my old Curt A-26 rail mounted hitch. Our campsite was not level, and not a straight pull-thru. When it came time to depart, I did not have a straight or level approach to the kingpin. I dropped the tailgate and slid the hitch all the way rearward, which gave me enough room to back in at an angle without the tailgate hitting the camper. It was so much easier! Once I was hooked up I simply unlatched the slider and backed the truck up until it locked in the forward position. Good to go. Odd angle hook-ups was an unanticipated benefit to the slider hitch for me.
With the hitch set to it's lowest level, I still have plenty of room over the bed rails.
Oh yeah, I do have airbags installed. I was concerned about the squirrely ride reported by others due to the inboard position of the coil springs so I installed the bags with 5 pounds of pressure. Sag under load was exactly 1 inch which leveled the rig nicely and the ride was very good. Compared to my (gone) F-350 DRW, the ride was very similar in that passing semi's had no effect while bouncing over rough potholes, dips and overpass connections seemed a bit more pronounced, but not terrible. I'd say the biggest adjustment was getting used to the idea my camper is now wider than my truck. Looking in the mirrors and seeing the front corners of the camper (usually blocked by DRW "hips") was a little off-putting at first.

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