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Buy now or wait until November or December

usmc041127

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Ram has let out a very lucrative incentive on Tradesman and Bighorn trims in the Midwest. Seeing some discounted as much as 17k. Think it's the time to buy with the terrible interest rates or wait until later? They sure have went up since I bought my last Bighorn in 2016. Lots are absolutely flooded. Mine has 100 or more setting and more on the way. The other makes dealerships are flooded as well I noticed.
 
Unless you hit it absolutely just right, you pay Peter now or you pay Paul later. As interest rates drop and buying picks up, discounts will slowly dry up.
 
Ram has let out a very lucrative incentive on Tradesman and Bighorn trims in the Midwest. Seeing some discounted as much as 17k. Think it's the time to buy with the terrible interest rates or wait until later? They sure have went up since I bought my last Bighorn in 2016. Lots are absolutely flooded. Mine has 100 or more setting and more on the way. The other makes dealerships are flooded as well I noticed.
End of the year discount typically are strong as dealers try to clear lots for the next model year. That said, market is wayyyy to unpredictable at the moment especially with the election year we are in. If it were me I’d hold out longer. I don’t interest rates dropping any time soon, neither do several friends in the field but that’s doesn’t mean I’m right, it’s just an opinion. I’m waiting for awhile to replace my wife’s Q8 as she’s at 2% and replacing her car would add $500/mth easily without enough benefit for the money. Wait until you’re gaining more to justify to the money.
 
Stellantis vehicles are sitting on the lot an average of 100 days now compared to 50 for the other brands, which is forcing the incentives. Good time to take advantage of their situation if you can avoid loan terms that don’t bleed you dry.
 
I had the same question. But I've been reading that RAM dealers have over a 200 day supply of trucks, far above average (source: Detroit Free Press, Cox Automotive). And the 2500s are among the slowest selling vehicle with a dealer inventory of over 47,000 trucks available. I ended up pulling the trigger on a 2024 Laramie 2500 that was on the dealer lot for over six months, $56k out the door. I'm sure there will be 2024 trucks available in 2025 but I needed a larger truck to tow a larger travel trailer.
 
I bought my 2024 RAM 2500 Laramie Night Edition last December 28th. $15,800 off sticker price. What I failed to research, RAM 2500's have a very low Cargo Carrying Capacity. Mine is 2119 lbs. Try to find a decent size 5th wheel with a hitch/pin weight under 1500 lbs. Myself, wife, 98lb dog and a full tank of diesel weigh 638lbs. With an empty hitch/pin weight of 1500lbs, I'm over the CCC. Ya, my RAM is rated to tow 20k lbs, however that has nothing to do with the CCC. Next time I'll buy a Ford F250.
 
I bought my 2024 RAM 2500 Laramie Night Edition last December 28th. $15,800 off sticker price. What I failed to research, RAM 2500's have a very low Cargo Carrying Capacity. Mine is 2119 lbs. Try to find a decent size 5th wheel with a hitch/pin weight under 1500 lbs. Myself, wife, 98lb dog and a full tank of diesel weigh 638lbs. With an empty hitch/pin weight of 1500lbs, I'm over the CCC. Ya, my RAM is rated to tow 20k lbs, however that has nothing to do with the CCC. Next time I'll buy a Ford F250.
I have a Ram 2500 with just about the same CCC that you do. The way I look at it, RAM caps their 2500's GVWR at 10,000 lb for registration purposes, but actually the GVWR is possibly higher, thus giving you greater CCC. Just my thought!
 
I have a Ram 2500 with just about the same CCC that you do. The way I look at it, RAM caps their 2500's GVWR at 10,000 lb for registration purposes, but actually the GVWR is possibly higher, thus giving you greater CCC. Just my thought!
I'm very conservative when it comes to things like we are discussing. I've spoken with RAM 2500 owners who are towing 37-41ft long 5th wheels who say they tow without a problem. I have a friend who has tow his 37' fiver all over the country without any issues. These folks have no clue about their 2500's CCC. My concern is getting in an accident. If the insurance company decides to either weight or calculate truck and RV weights, the company could possibly deny a claim.
I just ordered a new 5th wheel. Pin weight is 1250lbs. I'll be adding weight to the rear bumper to take some weight off the pin. I'm a pilot so I'm very cognizant of center of gravity distribution.
 
I'm very conservative when it comes to things like we are discussing. I've spoken with RAM 2500 owners who are towing 37-41ft long 5th wheels who say they tow without a problem. I have a friend who has tow his 37' fiver all over the country without any issues. These folks have no clue about their 2500's CCC. My concern is getting in an accident. If the insurance company decides to either weight or calculate truck and RV weights, the company could possibly deny a claim.
I just ordered a new 5th wheel. Pin weight is 1250lbs. I'll be adding weight to the rear bumper to take some weight off the pin. I'm a pilot so I'm very cognizant of center of gravity distribution.

Ok, apologies to the OP as this is a rabbit hole, but perhaps important to clarify - what do you mean "I'll be adding weight to the rear bumper"? I am a pilot so I also worry about weight and balance, but I'm confused as adding further weight more rearward seems counterproductive.

Also, to add my experience towing a 36' Jayco 5th wheel (~12k lbs) with a 2016 RAM 2500 Cummins...
-I had the Limited with factory air suspension; it sat very level and did not seem "overloaded" in any way. It accelerated smoothly and braked quite solidly
-the truck handled very well unless there was a side wind, then it was some trailer sway
-the trailer would sway considerably, if there was a side wind along with rutted roads; while this was rare it was concerning (happened twice in 4 years and 20k+ miles)
Why was this happening? 2 reasons
1. The RAM 2500 is a very soft ride; with that comes less stiffness if the trailer tried to move the truck
2. More importantly, the suspension on the 2500 is mounted quite inboard compared to leaf springs and it makes the truck more likely to sway side to side. Try it out; go push on the box with the truck empty, then compare it to a 3500 - the difference is night and day.

I now tow a 40' Montana (almost 17k lbs) with a 2020 RAM 3500 SRW short box 4x4, also with factory air suspension. I have over 20k towing this rig, and this is the most solid truck/RV combination I've ever towed.

Brad
 
Ok, apologies to the OP as this is a rabbit hole, but perhaps important to clarify - what do you mean "I'll be adding weight to the rear bumper"? I am a pilot so I also worry about weight and balance, but I'm confused as adding further weight more rearward seems counterproductive.

Also, to add my experience towing a 36' Jayco 5th wheel (~12k lbs) with a 2016 RAM 2500 Cummins...
-I had the Limited with factory air suspension; it sat very level and did not seem "overloaded" in any way. It accelerated smoothly and braked quite solidly
-the truck handled very well unless there was a side wind, then it was some trailer sway
-the trailer would sway considerably, if there was a side wind along with rutted roads; while this was rare it was concerning (happened twice in 4 years and 20k+ miles)
Why was this happening? 2 reasons
1. The RAM 2500 is a very soft ride; with that comes less stiffness if the trailer tried to move the truck
2. More importantly, the suspension on the 2500 is mounted quite inboard compared to leaf springs and it makes the truck more likely to sway side to side. Try it out; go push on the box with the truck empty, then compare it to a 3500 - the difference is night and day.

I now tow a 40' Montana (almost 17k lbs) with a 2020 RAM 3500 SRW short box 4x4, also with factory air suspension. I have over 20k towing this rig, and this is the most solid truck/RV combination I've ever towed.

Brad
What I mean is balancing the load. More weight to the rear of the trailer or 5th wheel means less weight on the tongue or pin. Also balancing means even distribution of weight on the axles. When I currently put 260lbs of weight on the bumper of my current TT, I'm taking weight off the hitch, and balancing the load on the axles. I weigh on a CAT Scale so I know the weight distribution. When I fly the aircraft load has to be balanced or the aircraft could crash.

It appears you are towing large 5th wheels. What is the unloaded hitch/pin weight of that 40' Montana? How much cargo/people/diesel/etc. do you have in your truck when you're headed out camping? I'm betting you are over the CCC of your truck.
 
I bought my 2024 RAM 2500 Laramie Night Edition last December 28th. $15,800 off sticker price. What I failed to research, RAM 2500's have a very low Cargo Carrying Capacity. Mine is 2119 lbs. Try to find a decent size 5th wheel with a hitch/pin weight under 1500 lbs. Myself, wife, 98lb dog and a full tank of diesel weigh 638lbs. With an empty hitch/pin weight of 1500lbs, I'm over the CCC. Ya, my RAM is rated to tow 20k lbs, however that has nothing to do with the CCC. Next time I'll buy a Ford F250.

The CCC seems really low. My sticker shows a payload capacity of 3131 lbs but it's a gasser. My previous 2020 RAM 1500 was 1756 lbs.
 
What I mean is balancing the load. More weight to the rear of the trailer or 5th wheel means less weight on the tongue or pin. Also balancing means even distribution of weight on the axles. When I currently put 260lbs of weight on the bumper of my current TT, I'm taking weight off the hitch, and balancing the load on the axles. I weigh on a CAT Scale so I know the weight distribution. When I fly the aircraft load has to be balanced or the aircraft could crash.

It appears you are towing large 5th wheels. What is the unloaded hitch/pin weight of that 40' Montana? How much cargo/people/diesel/etc. do you have in your truck when you're headed out camping? I'm betting you are over the CCC of your truck.

Thanks for confirming what you mean. It is tricky to get correct, but it is better to be too heavy on the pin than on the rear; it can get really wiggly if you don't have enough tongue weight. I'd rather rely on a few extra pounds on the rear axle than overloading the rear of the 5th wheel. IOW, I think someone could get in trouble trying to get the truck payload perfect then end up too light on the pin. Recommended minimum of 15% on the pin for 5th wheels, and 20-23% is common. My Montana has a GVWR of 16,700 and runs right about 20% on the pin (I have a large rear storage tray so can manage that pretty good). I like the way that tows.

As to CCC, I come from years of commercial hauling, which I do understand is a different world with different rules. For example where I am, GVWR (aka GCWR) of the entire truck and trailer(s) is a number you choose and pay for in licensing and insurance. If you are over that gross weight you either proactively permit or pay a fine if caught. What is an absolute stop is if you are overloaded on any of your axles. Lighten the load, or shift it, and you cannot move until you do.
I apply the same methodology to my pickup and RV. My payload is almost 3900 lbs, but I think you're right that I could exceed that at times. The 2020 RAM 3500 has an "arbitrary" truck GVWR of 11,700 lbs. I say arbitrary, because with private vehicles the manufacturer stipulates and the end user cannot. Yet, I have over 16,000 lbs of tires and 13,500 lbs of axles (rear is 7,000). IOW, a well balanced load could potentially give me a GVWR of 13,500 lbs. I am not close to being over 7,000 lbs on the rear axle or tires and not even close to 12,500 total on the truck, never mind 13,500.
I drove Dodge duallies for years, both for work and for RV towing (last one was a 2008). My 2020 SRW is more capable than they were in spite of having 2 less tires.

Note, the above is my opinion only, and is the methodology I have used for over 30 years. As noted, this is the most stable RV rig I've ever towed and I have enough miles and enough situations to have thoroughly tested it; including emergency braking with absolutely no brake fade, snowy roads including a stretch of black ice, terribly rutted secondary highways, and the steepest mountain grades in western US and Canada. There is simply no time when I was worried that I didn't have a dually.
I respect that others will choose differently, and I have no need to debate whether I should or should not do this.

Of course, I apply a much stricter W&B methodology to flying, but even then we could debate differences in planes and what experienced pilots do in the real world (ie, what is done in with 182s (commonly referred to as "if you can close the doors it will fly") compared with the weight you might be comfortable with loading in a DA40, or the balance of an A36).

Last thought for those concerned about insurance? Ask them. I did, and where I live if you disclose the weight you are towing, they cannot deny you insurance. This has also been the experience of those I know who did have a wreck; the weight was not even a question of the police or the insurance. But, everyone should check for themselves.

But, I digress further, so will end there....
To me, the key is that these are amazingly capable trucks and the OP should buy when they can.
The 2500 is an awesome daily driver and is capable of working pretty hard, but it definitely has limits.
The 3500 wants to work; its a bit rough as a daily driver, but if you tow a lot it will be much more stable, as well as more capable.

All the best with whatever choice you make!
Brad
 
Although this thread is a bit older, my recent experience might help.

I bought a GMC Sierra last fall through Medina Auto Mall. The dealership sells both new and used cars from several major brands like Cadillac, GMC, Dodge, Jeep. Since they’re only in Ohio, it’s not the most convenient for everyone, but for me the trip was worth it. I got a substantial discount and they helped me with financing, even though interest rates weren’t great on the market.
 
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