I changed my fuel filters this weekend and used a tip I got from a comment on a YouTube video about changing the filters. Get a 1.5 ft long piece of 1” PVC pipe and slip it over the factory hose. Wedge it into place between track bar and tire rod. It worked great. Drained straight into my drain pan.Next filter change I’m going to get the right size hose to drain the front filter and replace the existing hose with a cut to length piece that hangs down.
Any idea what the o.d. Of the tube you purchased was? I am being lazy and have yet to look at or locate the factory drain tube.I went to lowes and bought some clear hose that fits inside that useless little stubby hose and cut it to length to drain in my oil drain pan. Then put a few rags underneath the canister and had a small plastic bag to drop the filter in. Worked like a charm no mess whatsoever.
After seeing your design and doing a little rigging of my own, I came up with this. It’s just a large clear plastic jar that the bottom was thick enough to hold up. I drilled a 1” hole in the bottom with a spade bit and installed a glad hand rubber like is used on 18 wheelers for the air line couplings. Added a HF 5” extension. The extension has to be lubed to get it in the glad hand rubber. I haven’t tested it for leaks yet but as tight as everything is I don’t think it can possibly leak.I commented in another thread that I would post pictures of the "tool" I made to make changing the rear fuel filter a truly no mess task. @Brutal_HO if this is posted in the wrong place, please move it to the appropriate section.
In the past, I have designed and manufactured custom billet parts for BMW race bikes. They were sold world wide, and I enjoyed the whole process and experience.
My plan for this tool was to build a crude prototype, refine it, and then manufacture and sell it to distributers and through retail outlets. Manufacturing costs would be minimal, with the largest expense being the cost of molds for injection molding of the catch tank. The socket extension would need to be included to eliminate the chance of leaks, but the cost of the tank itself would be minimal, and the complete tool wouldn't be too expensive. Then I changed my mind and decided to give back to all the forum members, and show everyone how to make it themselves.
I threw this together one morning, and it performed better than I had imagined. Laying under my truck and changing the filter in my new 2021 for the first time, I was rewarded with an absolute "no mess" filter change. I had been dreading the filter change after reading all the horror stories of fuel running down your arms and driveshaft, and the mess in general. Without exaggeration, you could wear a suit and tie when changing the filter with this. It works that well.
Here are a few pictures, and I'll explain the parts I used in my next post.



A piece of 5/8 or 3/4” water hose will fit over the outside of hose that is attached. Just pull it off when you get through.Any idea what the o.d. Of the tube you purchased was? I am being lazy and have yet to look at or locate the factory drain tube.
Nice! This is even simpler than mine. What exactly is the rubber "seal" you used?After seeing your design and doing a little rigging of my own, I came up with this. It’s just a large clear plastic jar that the bottom was thick enough to hold up. I drilled a 1” hole in the bottom with a spade bit and installed a glad hand rubber like is used on 18 wheelers for the air line couplings. Added a HF 5” extension. The extension has to be lubed to get it in the glad hand rubber. I haven’t tested it for leaks yet but as tight as everything is I don’t think it can possibly leak.View attachment 73508View attachment 73509View attachment 73510
It’s a glad hand rubber. It’s used on 18 wheelers in the connector for the air lines. The glad hand on the trailer has one and the one on the truck has one and they lock together.Nice! This is even simpler than mine. What exactly is the rubber "seal" you used?
Thanks for the idea. I just ordered one from Orielly's @ 79 cents. Now to find a bottle with a strong thick bottom.It’s a glad hand rubber. It’s used on 18 wheelers in the connector for the air lines. The glad hand on the trailer has one and the one on the truck has one and they lock together.
White vinegar jugs are pretty thick. We buy Maraschino Cherries at Sams and they’re pretty thick also. I think the coconut oil jar I used came from Sams also. I thought about using 4” pvc for this but decided to use what I had. A 4” pvc cap and a short piece of 4” dwv pvc pipe would work but just have to glue it together. The glad hand rubber is the perfect size inside for the extension but I don’t know how easy it is going to be to remove it now. I don’t really need that extension so it will probably stay right where it is.Thanks for the idea. I just ordered one from Orielly's @ 79 cents. Now to find a bottle with a strong thick bottom.