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Regens at alarming rate!

This was the 1st change since bought new, now I am suspect of how much they put in, or where is the oil going?
 
Gettin off tooic of regens, but maybe some oil lose due to longer cold weather warm up idling?
 
I did not see where they offer a module for newer model years unless I missed it, seems all are for pre 20's

 

 
No.

If your truck has 12qts in it, that should be right at the “full” or “max” mark.
Took the truck to my service guy, he tossed it in a bay and they let it sit for 30 mins and had me go in the bay and talk to tech who showed me the stick, what they called as full or wet to the top..with the cross hatches and bumps its not super clear to me being used to a flat dip, but to them it was and that it is full. Hooked the dual axle flatbed and 2200 lb RZR up for a tow to a ride and passive regen ended up droppin the gauge from above the 1/4 mark to Zero by the time the trip to the ridin area and back was over. May not be generating enough heat to passively burn out on the 40 mike highway runs to work every day causing the active frequency.
 
Took the truck to my service guy, he tossed it in a bay and they let it sit for 30 mins and had me go in the bay and talk to tech who showed me the stick, what they called as full or wet to the top..with the cross hatches and bumps its not super clear to me being used to a flat dip, but to them it was and that it is full. Hooked the dual axle flatbed and 2200 lb RZR up for a tow to a ride and passive regen ended up droppin the gauge from above the 1/4 mark to Zero by the time the trip to the ridin area and back was over. May not be generating enough heat to passively burn out on the 40 mike highway runs to work every day causing the active frequency.
That’s good. As long as it’s full that’s what matters.

As for the regeneration, it’s not typically an issue when towing. The added load on the engine makes passive regeneration happen very quickly.

The unloaded travel (rides to work) should still be able to net some passive regeneration over 40 miles as long as you’re traveling fast enough. I’ve also noticed that, if you can keep the gauge at zero, it’ll stay at zero pretty readily with continued highway travel. Once the gauge registers soot, it seems like it takes much more passive regeneration to keep the soot loading down.
 
I agree, and runs around town at all and it loads up quick, it was 70% full a few days ago, I went for a 60 mile straight stretch desert highway run out and back on way home from work pushin 70 75, or.. uh.. more at times of clear safety and the soot level on my Scangauge only came down to 40%, hook up and tow all gone.
The driving patterns have not changed since I bought it however, and why this system has become so sensitive marking at 5500 miles still doesnt make sense.
 
I agree, and runs around town at all and it loads up quick, it was 70% full a few days ago, I went for a 60 mile straight stretch desert highway run out and back on way home from work pushin 70 75, or.. uh.. more at times of clear safety and the soot level on my Scangauge only came down to 40%, hook up and tow all gone.
The driving patterns have not changed since I bought it however, and why this system has become so sensitive marking at 5500 miles still doesnt make sense.
It should never be able to reach 70% with the way the regen strategy is programmed. Unless you were interrupting the normal cycles?
 
After reading all the chatter about the Air filter, I pulled that now a 1400 miles since 1st oil change, or 6700miles, and it is.my 1st Cummins but my Ecodiesel Ram AF never looked oily -black, this is all new to me. But it may have helped the passive regen, since I did this just befor the the tow.
 
That’s good. As long as it’s full that’s what matters.

As for the regeneration, it’s not typically an issue when towing. The added load on the engine makes passive regeneration happen very quickly.

The unloaded travel (rides to work) should still be able to net some passive regeneration over 40 miles as long as you’re traveling fast enough. I’ve also noticed that, if you can keep the gauge at zero, it’ll stay at zero pretty readily with continued highway travel. Once the gauge registers soot, it seems like it takes much more passive regeneration to keep the soot loading down.
What are your thoughts on dropping down a gear or two to get the RPM's up instead of 75 - 80 MPH for regens? Those speeds aren't always practical and could lead to an expensive ticket. I have a close friend who's the office manager of our local CHP and she was cracking up about how that conversation might go if I got pulled over for excessive speed to get my truck to regen. While my truck has a serious problem (per STAR we're looking at the high pressure fuel pump now) I did notice some slight improvement in soot loading while town driving locked in 2nd or 3rd gear.
 
It should never be able to reach 70% with the way the regen strategy is programmed. Unless you were interrupting the normal cycles?
Nope, I always complete Active Regen cycles, very rare to stop one in mid burn, recall 2 times in 6700 miles, now I have been in AR in city driving stuck at long intersect and it shut off at idle, since then I always drop to neutral and keep Rs up over 1000 and it never shuts down..95% of Active Regens I run the highway...My Scanguage shows an Active Regen is coming no matter what "religiously" once the % hits 90, and bingo AR kicks in, so I can always plan ahead my AR runs to complete on the highway. I used this same gauge and method on my EcoDiesel to always be ready for an AR. Like not sitting in a car wash line waiting to go thru..
 
ETA, the 90% mark on the Scsngauge is not relative to what the idiot gauge on the EVIC shows for Soot load, it may be 50%, its just the "number" the gauge will always be at or within a few digits and like clockwork AR starts...when its done with AR per the EVIC..and guage is down to Zero, My scanguage will always show some residual % of Soot Load is actually as low as 8 to 15% afrer Active Regens.. never 0, was the same on the EcoD..not a perfect calibration between the truck ECM and Scanguage but it is very useful for keeping me aware of the impending AR cycle kick off
 
What are your thoughts on dropping down a gear or two to get the RPM's up instead of 75 - 80 MPH for regens? Those speeds aren't always practical and could lead to an expensive ticket. I have a close friend who's the office manager of our local CHP and she was cracking up about how that conversation might go if I got pulled over for excessive speed to get my truck to regen. While my truck has a serious problem (per STAR we're looking at the high pressure fuel pump now) I did notice some slight improvement in soot loading while town driving locked in 2nd or 3rd gear.

I know with my truck at 50 or 60 mph, locking out 6th gear does get the RPMs up, but lowers EGTs. But I don't know what would happen if you limited it to 2nd or 3rd gear in town. Generally it seems to me like the EGTs are highest when the engine is at lower RPMs.

I don't have this issue, (yet), but still only about 10,000 miles on the truck. If it goes into regen while driving in town, I get on the freeway and drive until it is done. Last week, on return drive from dealer after two recalls and oil and fuel filter change, it went into regen so I did just that. It was a 24 hour regen.
 
What are your thoughts on dropping down a gear or two to get the RPM's up instead of 75 - 80 MPH for regens? Those speeds aren't always practical and could lead to an expensive ticket. I have a close friend who's the office manager of our local CHP and she was cracking up about how that conversation might go if I got pulled over for excessive speed to get my truck to regen. While my truck has a serious problem (per STAR we're looking at the high pressure fuel pump now) I did notice some slight improvement in soot loading while town driving locked in 2nd or 3rd gear.

That will have the opposite effect by cooling the DPF down and reducing passive regen.

You want to have the lowest rpms possible for the speed to have the hottest DPF.
 
That will have the opposite effect by cooling the DPF down and reducing passive regen.

You want to have the lowest rpms possible for the speed to have the hottest DPF.
Ah, a classic Catch-22. You must essentially break the law for a passive regen, but you can't have a passive regen if you don't break the law (towing a large load notwithstanding). Only the government can mandate such absurdity.
 
Ah, a classic Catch-22. You must essentially break the law for a passive regen, but you can't have a passive regen if you don't break the law (towing a large load notwithstanding). Only the government can mandate such absurdity.
Some western states like where I live have a speed limit of 80mph and passive regen does happen with no load.
 
Ah, a classic Catch-22. You must essentially break the law for a passive regen, but you can't have a passive regen if you don't break the law (towing a large load notwithstanding). Only the government can mandate such absurdity.
Ha, funny, sort of ... Anyway, dealer is putting the new part # MAF sensor on my truck (approved by RAM/Star). It seems like it maybe helped some folks.
 
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