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Parasitic draw / control module issue?

Thanks for the input. I’ve noticed the lack of quality with anything Ram. I don’t think that even a better quality battery would hold you long term with this intermittent draw, at least not in my off season when I only drive the truck a few times a week, which wouldn’t let the battery get trickle chargers by the alternator regularly.
 
Slow moving process here everyone. Still can’t find an issue causing the battery to die. It wouldn’t start for me today, took 4 try’s for it to even decide to turn the engine over, to which it started.

I verified a 3 amp draw that dies down to about 300 milliamps within a minute. I found a single fuse #84 labeled “ASBM/HVAC/ICS/R HTD ST SW” drawing 58 milliamps in itself. At one point the left turn lights flickered while checking this fuse.
 
Before you get too involved have you checked that all of your fuses are properly/ fully seated? Have you checked your grounds? Have you inspected the truck for critters chewing wires?
 
I’ll check the fuses tomorrow just to be able to say I did. What ground connections would I be checking? The connections on the main lug? And the main lug connection itself? No, I can’t say I checked they were tight, but didn’t appear to be loose.

I have not inspected wiring for signals of rodents. I’ll check when I can, we got another 3” of snow today.

Thanks for your input.
 
hook one lead of your meter to the terminal and hold the other lead on the neg. battery post and lift the terminal off the post. that way the truck never "sees" the battery disconnected. I would start on the 10amp scale first to see how much draw you have before switching to milliamps
 
hondapro said:
hook one lead of your meter to the terminal and hold the other lead on the neg. battery post and lift the terminal off the post. that way the truck never "sees" the battery disconnected. I would start on the 10amp scale first to see how much draw you have before switching to milliamps
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That’s a god thought. It’s going to be pretty tough for me to do by myself, I’m pretty sure the negative cable slides down pretty far on the post. So long as I can get a meter lead on the very bottom of the negative post to be able to slip the cable off, this would be a good check to accomplish that I have been trying to, which is trying to find the current, my truck is drawing while sitting off all night, or all day.

Everything I’ve researched shows I should be under 80 mA or so, and I find it hard to believe that the 300 mA I’m reading is causing the truck to intermittently lose voltage to not even try to start.

It would be nice if I had one of those recorders, to monitor the current overnight, and over the course of a week if need be. This is definitely intermittent, and just when I think the problem on the way, the truck decides to not start. like yesterday it was cold and snowing, so I figured the code definitely had something to do with it. But the truck started fine this morning, and this morning was much colder.
 
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