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Best Place to Connect to Accessory Power

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I had originally posted asking the best place to hardwire into accessory power a Qi charger. I didn't think the cigarette lighter plug was an option since it gets constant power from the battery. But from additional searching, I found that I can move a fuse over and it will make the outlet powered only with run/accessory and work for what I am wanting to do.

I didn't want to clutter the forum with another 'asked and answered' post. My error was posting this before I finished my searching; my apologies.
 
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Why not add to your post for the benefit of others instead of editing out all the info?

100%!! Bugs me to no end when people do that.

The whole point of the forum is to spread information which is often times helpful others.
 
I had originally posted asking the best place to hardwire into accessory power a Qi charger. I didn't think the cigarette lighter plug was an option since it gets constant power from the battery. But from additional searching, I found that I can move a fuse over and it will make the outlet powered only with run/accessory and work for what I am wanting to do.

I didn't want to clutter the forum with another 'asked and answered' post. My error was posting this before I finished my searching; my apologies.

Sometimes a new way to do something is found.

I know a lot of replies are often "search the forum" but that's usually a reaction by respondents to those that don't bother trying even a basic search. Glad you found a suitable solution.

FWIW, while I knew there was an option for the center console rear USB port power, I didn't know the cig lighter socket could be changed so the post certainly benefited me.
 
This is a really clean way to tap into the cigarette lighter power.

RED WOLF 12 Volt Power Adapter Wire Harness Switch Connector For Chrysler Dodge Ram 2001-2021 Cigarette Lighter Power Outlet to Add Backup camera CB Radio Radar Detectors Portable GPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V4XFP2...abc_RVPABZCP4V1M3EN12BYV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out. That is something that would work nicely.

Sometimes a new way to do something is found.

I know a lot of replies are often "search the forum" but that's usually a reaction by respondents to those that don't bother trying even a basic search. Glad you found a suitable solution.

FWIW, while I knew there was an option for the center console rear USB port power, I didn't know the cig lighter socket could be changed so the post certainly benefited me.
Well, I haven't verified it so it could be misinformation. ‍I'll probably try working on something later in the week and I'll report back.
 
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out. That is something that would work nicely.


Well, I haven't verified it so it could be misinformation. ‍I'll probably try working on something later in the week and I'll report back.
It works great. Just make sure your fuse for the cig lighter is in the position that is ACC switched. You will have to pull your center stack (radio) forward to access the back of the cig plug, but that isn’t a big deal at all, if you’ve never done it. Two screws up top under the little plastic mat, and give it a strong tug forward.

I have done tap-a-fuse solutions into the switched ACC power at the fuse panel before, and I find this to be a way nicer solution. This product also has it’s own fuse, so that’s nice.

I used it to run power for a front camera I installed recently (‘21 RAM 2500). Nice and clean.
 
That is a clean and nicely done harness. I hardwired and soldered mine. For $27.00 I would hardwire and solder again - I'm a cheapskate and hardwiring talented View attachment 18435
Ha! I solder almost everything too. A skill taught to me and my brother as kids by our electrical engineer dad. It has served me well. I just wanted to be able to easily remove this power splice with no trace in case I decided I didn’t like the camera setup. Literally just got done soldering in a rear light bar in my garage and saw this message. Haha!
 
Ha! I solder almost everything too. A skill taught to me and my brother as kids by our electrical engineer dad. It has served me well. I just wanted to be able to easily remove this power splice with no trace in case I decided I didn’t like the camera setup. Literally just got done soldering in a rear light bar in my garage and saw this message. Haha!
Yep, me too. I put a 3 light bar centered under the tailgate on all my trucks. Hardwired the 2016 into the lighting harness. On my 2020 I hardwired into the tail light assembly harness. My soldering skills were perfected as a Pacific Bell Telephone technician. (66 years ago)
 
Not to start a huge debate or bust your collective bubble, but wire crimp > solder and for that matter, wire wrap > solder in automotive, aircraft, and MIL wiring connections subject to vibration.

In some cases, crimp+solder is acceptable.

For wire splicing, solder wicks up the wire and creates a brittle joint that vibration and movement are more likely to cause issues than a gas tight crimp alone. This is more prevalent in termination connections than butt splices but still presents a potential failure point.

FWIW, I tend to use uninsulated butt splice crimps and marine shrink tubing on everything, even if it's inside the cab. A proper crimp with the right jaws for the job, not a half-baked crimp using a cheap tool.

That said, most of the things you're wiring there are not moving so solder is probably OK.

(MIL trained technician)
 
Brutal,
Yes, I've seen soldered wire wraps break, none due to vibration, all due to human handling of an overheated splice. Usually before it ever got placed in service.

I agree, in a high vibration environment a soldered splice is not the best choice. That said, I've never seen a vibration point on a vehicle that would preclude a soldered splice. If there's room and enough wire slack to make the splice it's probably not going to be vibrated.

I'm happy to report I've never had a soldered splice fail.
 
Not to start a huge debate or bust your collective bubble, but wire crimp > solder and for that matter, wire wrap > solder in automotive, aircraft, and MIL wiring connections subject to vibration.

In some cases, crimp+solder is acceptable.

For wire splicing, solder wicks up the wire and creates a brittle joint that vibration and movement are more likely to cause issues than a gas tight crimp alone. This is more prevalent in termination connections than butt splices but still presents a potential failure point.

FWIW, I tend to use uninsulated butt splice crimps and marine shrink tubing on everything, even if it's inside the cab. A proper crimp with the right jaws for the job, not a half-baked crimp using a cheap tool.

That said, most of the things you're wiring there are not moving so solder is probably OK.

(MIL trained technician)
Nice points/info. Collective bubble is still in tact. Haha.
 
Well, I haven't verified it so it could be misinformation. ‍I'll probably try working on something later in the week and I'll report back.
Today I confirmed that the 'cigarette lighter plug' goes through fuse 90 and it has two positions. When the fuse is seated closer to cab, it's BATTERY power. Conversely, when the fuse is seated closer to the bumper, it's ACCESSORY power.
 
I had originally posted asking the best place to hardwire into accessory power a Qi charger. I didn't think the cigarette lighter plug was an option since it gets constant power from the battery. But from additional searching, I found that I can move a fuse over and it will make the outlet powered only with run/accessory and work for what I am wanting to do.

I didn't want to clutter the forum with another 'asked and answered' post. My error was posting this before I finished my searching; my apologies.
Which fuse did you move over? I need this.....
 
Which fuse did you move over? I need this.....
LOL, post #15 right above yours.

 
I also replied to your post in another thread with the same details 4 hours prior to you asking above :-)

Switched power source?


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