Setting up Equalizer WD Hitch - those that have please chime in

[Electronut]

Setting up on my 2500 6.4L gaser with Rear Air Suspension tomorrow. Bought the GenY Boss 10k Torsion Shank with 9.5 inch drop to accommodate the 35's with 2" Thuren leveling kit. Sucker is HEAVY! Still have to bolt up Equalizer head too...yikes.

Have 27' TT that will gross out at a round 7800 lbs with a hitch weight of about 900-1000lbs give or take some weight there.

I was going to measure every necessary step along the way. Truck bare, TT hooked w/no WD bars and then with to see how much WD there is and adjust accordingly.

I was going to handle above while truck is in tire jack mode so shuts the rear air off.

Was hoping to get an idea for starting point on the height position of the L brackets(amount of WD) I should use and how much sag the truck will have when hooked up with no WD bars(again air system off) . This will give me a better idea from the get go how high I should place my hitch ball height too before I start the process. Don't know what to expect for rear sag on 2500 with factory air when turned off.

Want to distribute 50-100% of the weight to front as guided by Equalizer and without the Rear Air kicking in to level off. The air can then make up any difference afterward once additional passengers and bed cargo is loaded up. That's the beauty of the Ram Air which I'm looking forward to see it do its thing.

Any insight appreciated.

 

[jebruns]

IMO, you should set up the WDH with the air suspension in whatever position you're going to tow in. I've done both of my Ram 2500's that way (I tow in normal ride height), and it works great.

As far as ball height, you need to do that first to get the trailer level, again in your towing air suspension preference. Then it's just adjusting until you get your recommended front and rear heights dialed in. It can be a little putzy getting it dialed in, but it's one and done.

 

[Power247]

......Was hoping to get an idea for starting point on the height position of the L brackets(amount of WD) I should use and how much sag the truck will have when hooked up with no WD bars(again air system off) .......

For the L brackets that mount to the frame of your TT you want to measure relative to the coupler on the TT. Measure the bottom of the socket that the bar fits into to the top of the ball. Use that as your reference (this spacing might even be listed in the instructions. Then mount the L brackets so the height between the L and the top of the coupler are as close as possible to the reference.

You want the bars to be parallel to the frame once connected. It's the washers between the shank and the head that determine how much weight you push to the front axle.

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

 

[Electronut]

IMO, you should set up the WDH with the air suspension in whatever position you're going to tow in. I've done both of my Ram 2500's that way (I tow in normal ride height), and it works great.

As far as ball height, you need to do that first to get the trailer level, again in your towing air suspension preference. Then it's just adjusting until you get your recommended front and rear heights dialed in. It can be a little putzy getting it dialed in, but it's one and done.

Yes absolutely. Already at the riding height it would be at and I measured bare already at that height. I also know the ball height range based on my TT necessary coupler height at level state. Still need to know how much rear sag truck will have loaded and that's why I was trying to get feedback. Otherwise I'll figure it out. I'll target the top of the hitch ball to be 1" or so higher than the TT coupler leveled height. Was trying to avoid having to reposition the head after already set.

For the L brackets that mount to the frame of your TT you want to measure relative to the coupler on the TT. Measure the bottom of the socket that the bar fits into to the top of the ball. Use that as your reference (this spacing might even be listed in the instructions. Then mount the L brackets so the height between the L and the top of the coupler are as close as possible to the reference.

You want the bars to be parallel to the frame once connected. It's the washers between the shank and the head that determine how much weight you push to the front axle.

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

I would have to disagree there. The WD bars are set based on the height of the hitch ball/head on the shank. The L brackets set height on the WD trailer frame side allocate how much weight you want distributed to the front of the truck based on unloaded and loaded measurements of the front wheel well to ground distances. The washers are the fine tuning aspect of the WD process if you are in between raising or lower the head/hitch ball on the shank based on the formula/calculations for the 50-100% WD you are trying to target.

 

[Electronut]

I put the brakes on for the hitch install. As I started my eye caught something that didn't look right and appears as though GenY sent me an improperly manufacturered torsion shank. I'm not 100% but looks like the weld where the torsion system meets the steel tube that slides in the truck receiver wasn't welded on straight. It twists towards the driver side and doesnt come straight out the receiver and that throws off all the proper alignment for what a hitch requires. I don't like that one bit so I have to contact them. That will impact the overall operation of the WD Hitch and Bars plus also impact the way the torsion system should operate. May also impact applying the WD bars evenly and correctly which would make that application difficult.

If you look closely at the photos you can see what I'm saying. I threw in the standard Equalizer shank to rule out the receiver on the truck perhaps being off but doesn't look like the case. Have to point the issue being towards the GenY.

Dissapointed to say the least for an American made $800 shank.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

It would not affect it how the WDH works but its still not right at all and for that kind of money its crazy that its off that much plus the weld across the top looks like little to no penetration into the bushing tube. And for 800$ its a pretty low weight cap

 

[Power247]

I would have to disagree there. The WD bars are set based on the height of the hitch ball/head on the shank. The L brackets set height on the WD trailer frame side allocate how much weight you want distributed to the front of the truck based on unloaded and loaded measurements of the front wheel well to ground distances. The washers are the fine tuning aspect of the WD process if you are in between raising or lower the head/hitch ball on the shank based on the formula/calculations for the 50-100% WD you are trying to target.

Interesting... Mine is pretty old, they must have changed the design. Plz post pics when you get it set up.

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

 

[tyler2you]

Looks like the design has changed a bit, but my receiver tube is slightly off center as well. A little over 1/16". No twist however like Electronut's.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Unnecessary complication. Truck will pull that trailer just fine with just the ball, that’s bout perfect tongue weight for that trailer.

Assuming your numbers are accurate, you’ve already got the tongue weight dialed in and don’t need the WDH. You start taking tongue weight off with that WDH and you’re going to make it handle worse.

 

[Electronut]

Gen-Y shipping me a replacement and providing a return shipping label to return the one I have. No questions asked. They were pretty responsive. Still a bit concerning how they can allow something like this off their production line. Didn't get a chance to speak with the Sales Manager as we missed each other via phone today but he shot me an email. Will likely speak tomorrow.

Unnecessary complication. Truck will pull that trailer just fine with just the ball, that’s bout perfect tongue weight for that trailer.

Assuming your numbers are accurate, you’ve already got the tongue weight dialed in and don’t need the WDH. You start taking tongue weight off with that WDH and you’re going to make it handle worse.

I know the truck can handle no problem the tongue weight without any WD bars but the manual supports utilizing a WD Hitch. Instructions are to the T to match the Equalizer manual as well so kind of dumb I don't try. If I can lower.any sway scenarios then why not. I don't think I'm going to have to transfer much weight to the front wheels but will see. Just going with the formulas given.

I got further intel from other posts in Airstream Forum that with air ride on the 2500 expect about a 1" drop when tongue is under load. That definitely gives me a starting point for hitch height. Once I get the replacement Gen-Y BOSS GH-2303 I'll be back in business to follow this install through to completion.

 

[g00fy]

Setting up on my 2500 6.4L gaser with Rear Air Suspension tomorrow. Bought the GenY Boss 10k Torsion Shank with 9.5 inch drop to accommodate the 35's with 2" Thuren leveling kit. Sucker is HEAVY! Still have to bolt up Equalizer head too...yikes.

Have 27' TT that will gross out at a round 7800 lbs with a hitch weight of about 900-1000lbs give or take some weight there.

I was going to measure every necessary step along the way. Truck bare, TT hooked w/no WD bars and then with to see how much WD there is and adjust accordingly.

I was going to handle above while truck is in tire jack mode so shuts the rear air off.

Was hoping to get an idea for starting point on the height position of the L brackets(amount of WD) I should use and how much sag the truck will have when hooked up with no WD bars(again air system off) . This will give me a better idea from the get go how high I should place my hitch ball height too before I start the process. Don't know what to expect for rear sag on 2500 with factory air when turned off.

Want to distribute 50-100% of the weight to front as guided by Equalizer and without the Rear Air kicking in to level off. The air can then make up any difference afterward once additional passengers and bed cargo is loaded up. That's the beauty of the Ram Air which I'm looking forward to see it do its thing.

Any insight appreciated.

I'm down in Jefferson with an Equalizer on my 2500 for 27ft Toy hauler, I'll show you where i got mine setup and help you with yours one day if you want.

 

[Electronut]

I'm down in Jefferson with an Equalizer on my 2500 for 27ft Toy hauler, I'll show you where i got mine setup and help you with yours one day if you want.

Thanks. I'm confident I'll get it done. My setup would be different anyway since my TT coupler height wouldn't be the same as your toy hauler.

When you say Jefferson are you meaning Jefferson NJ?

 

[g00fy]

Thanks. I'm confident I'll get it done. My setup would be different anyway since my TT coupler height wouldn't be the same as your toy hauler.

When you say Jefferson are you meaning Jefferson NJ?

Yea I'm in lake hopatcong.

 

[Electronut]

Yea I'm in lake hopatcong.

Awesome. Too funny.

I'm a Ducati guy and run track at NJMP as a member so the Panigale 1199 will be going in the bed with the TT in tow!

 

[Electronut]

Looks like the design has changed a bit, but my receiver tube is slightly off center as well. A little over 1/16". No twist however like Electronut's.

View attachment 54512View attachment 54513

How do you move this sucker around? I'm no slouch when it comes to lifting stuff since Ive been training for most of my life but this sucker with hitch head installed will be a bear to deal with at over a total 100 lbs in mass.

 

[tyler2you]

How do you move this sucker around? I'm no slouch when it comes to lifting stuff since Ive been training for most of my life but this sucker with hitch head installed will be a bear to deal with at over a total 100 lbs in mass.

Yep, 115 lbs. to be exact. I've got one of those cheap furniture dollys from Harbor Freight to move it around the garage. I wrap a length of chain around the hitch in a couple of spots and use that to lift it up into the receiver in the truck. Keep the back straight and lift with the legs . . . It stays on the truck when camping with a tiny traffic cone on top so nobody walks into the thing. I also put some strips of reflective tape on the sides to help in parking lots if we go somewhere.

In hindsight, I wish I'd gone with the Shocker WD hitch. It's only 76 lbs. with the Equalizer head attached.

 

[Electronut]

Yep, 115 lbs. to be exact. I've got one of those cheap furniture dollys from Harbor Freight to move it around the garage. I wrap a length of chain around the hitch in a couple of spots and use that to lift it up into the receiver in the truck. Keep the back straight and lift with the legs . . . It stays on the truck when camping with a tiny traffic cone on top so nobody walks into the thing. I also put some strips of reflective tape on the sides to help in parking lots if we go somewhere.

In hindsight, I wish I'd gone with the Shocker WD hitch. It's only 76 lbs. with the Equalizer head attached.

View attachment 54605

I was debating the Shocker too. But the GenY was already expensive. 35lbs less helpful but for what the Shocker costs I figured go with the GenY. Not sure of the longevity of the Shocker. That airbag has to be maintained as well.

 

[tyler2you]

I was debating the Shocker too. But the GenY was already expensive. 35lbs less helpful but for what the Shocker costs I figured go with the GenY. Not sure of the longevity of the Shocker. That airbag has to be maintained as well.

Yeah, I have no complaints about the Gen-Y's performance or price. It works great, but not sure I'll be able to get it up into the receiver 5 years from now. Good reason to keep up with the fitness . . .

I have heard some folks are having trouble getting enough drop with the Shocker on 4WD 2500 and 3500s, so it may not be a good option anyways.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

I was debating the Shocker too. But the GenY was already expensive. 35lbs less helpful but for what the Shocker costs I figured go with the GenY. Not sure of the longevity of the Shocker. That airbag has to be maintained as well.

Just gotta keep air in it when towing but they will last 20+ years not much to go wrong. And grease the pins

 

[tyler2you]

Here's a pic of the dolly and chain arrangement