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2500 Leveling Kit

My apologies for hijacking your thread but I'm going to install a RC leveling kit (plastic spacers) . I know I have to perform alignment after the installation. My local installer wants $800 to install the kit ( I provide the kit). Alignment extra $150 so $950 total to install. I decided I'm going to do it myself. My question is if I have to use the truck for a week to go to work will it be okay without alignment done? 35 highway miles one way.
 
kristof said:
My apologies for hijacking your thread but I'm going to install a RC leveling kit (plastic spacers) . I know I have to perform alignment after the installation. My local installer wants $800 to install the kit ( I provide the kit). Alignment extra $150 so $950 total to install. I decided I'm going to do it myself. My question is if I have to use the truck for a week to go to work will it be okay without alignment done? 35 highway miles one way.
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I'm having the same kit installed today as long as it comes in. (side note: that price sounds high. They are installing mine for $665, alignment and leveling kit with shock extenders included). The main thing with not having the alignment done immediately besides extra tire wear is dealing with the steering wheel being at an off angle. I'm not an expert at this by any means but the shop made it sound like doing the alignment immediately was necessary.
 
elephantrider said:
if you're looking for a true level, a 1" spacer will do all ya need. add a good set of shocks and good to go. most folks, including me, go carli.. from 2" on up.

the bilstein 2.3" level kit with resi shocks is a great bang for buck kit. get a rc trac bar if you go 2" or more.
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This Bilstein is what I'm installing on my truck next week. Anyone add the Fabtech radius arms too?? Thoughts???
 
HappyChappy said:
Mine seems to be both…or I guess pretty much any kind of bump or hole. Driving on the highway or main kind of road it’s very smooth but through a residential that doesn’t have the greatest of streets, it’s making all kinds of noises.
It does seem like the tire drops kind of hard when hitting a hole (mechanically stupid so not sure how to describe it) which is odd in my mind with my having the Thuren coils and Fox 2.0 from them. Going over cracks in the road, or asphalt lines where they’ve filled in the cracks, it makes noise where you hear it in every one I drive over.
This actually drives me crazy to the point where I don’t like driving it and want to get rid of it…especially with the kind of money I’ve put into it.
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Clunking noise uaually means something is loose and popping is usually a worn out bushing. Make sure your front shock pintop stem bolt is tighter. Usually when you tighten the bolt and makes contact with the washer, give ATLEAST two completes turns to snug. You just don‘t want to over tighten to the point the bushing is bulging. Usually that’s the culprit with clunking noise or a coil chatter noise going over smaller bumps or cracks in the road on new suspension. Make sure to put a wrench over every bolt that was installed. Especially if you did not install yourself.
 
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firemansdiesel said:
Clunking noise uaually means something is loose and popping is usually a worn out bushing. Make sure your front shock pintop stem bolt is tighter. Usually when you tighten the bolt and makes contact with the washer, give ATLEAST two completes turns to snug. You just don‘t want to over tighten to the point the bushing is bulging. Usually that’s the culprit with clunking noise or a coil chatter noise going over smaller bumps or cracks in the road on new suspension. Make sure to put a wrench over every bolt that was installed. Especially if you did not install yourself.
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Just wondering if you guys all just clamp a set of Vise-Grips on the very top of the piston to tighten them? I've always done it that way but I'm wondering if there is a better way?
 
johnnyroastbeef said:
Just wondering if you guys all just clamp a set of Vise-Grips on the very top of the piston to tighten them? I've always done it that way but I'm wondering if there is a better way?
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Hold the shock body with one hand and tighten it down with your other hand. I used this method when I installed my Fox shocks and no issues.
 
Any issues with Thuren? Any reason you didn't go Carli? I've had Carli and looking at Thuren this time. Looks perfect
 
HixMega said:
Any issues with Thuren? Any reason you didn't go Carli? I've had Carli and looking at Thuren this time. Looks perfect
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You can't go wrong with either one. I've run equipment from both of them for years on 2 different trucks. I'm still running parts that are over 15 years old on my 3rd Gen without issue.
 
Rockcrawlindude said:
You’ll need to measure you own truck to get the right measurement for yourself. You also need to decide if you want a dead level truck or not. (See video below)


Personally, I only like 1” of leveling which leaves a little rake in the truck.

This is a 1” front lift on my truck

View attachment 44578View attachment 44579
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What did you do to get the 1" lift, this is what I am looking for?
 
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