Shocks

[Brutal_HO]

Once you break the top shock nut loose there is no need to use the 9mm on top of the shock. While installing my Fox 2.0s I did not have to use a second wrench to hold the shaft in place, I was able to hold the shock body with my hand as I tightened the nut down and compressed the bushing. Also, the ratcheting wrenches really speed things up but make sure you have one with a swivel head

The shaft on my factory shocks would spin inside the outer body. It was rusty enough that even pretreating with pb-blaster, I had to hold it for quite a bit. and on the passenger side, it also helps hold the liner out of the way and didn't impede my use of a "gearwrench."

Swivel head probably helps but wasn't absolutely necessary if you don't mind the wrench handle banging/rubbing on the shock tower. FWIW Most of the fixed offset gear wrenches are 15° and might work except for the liner interference.

At this point, it's all hair splitting on how you do it - do what works best for you. I was just pointing out the tools needed.

 

[Gondul]

So following up on this as I'm getting ready to replace my shocks and there is info scattered about:
For the top it was mentioned to follow Thuren specs here:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ication_Shock_Torque_Warning.pdf?v=1661893857

Front Shock - Top - (Thuren specs)?
Front Shock - Bottom - 35 ft-lbs plus 105 degrees

Rear Shock - Top - (Thuren specs)?
Rear Shock - Bottom - 133 ft-lbs

Power Hop Damper - Top - Bilstein specs?
Power Hop Damper - Bottom - Bilstein specs?

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

So following up on this as I'm getting ready to replace my shocks and there is info scattered about:
For the top it was mentioned to follow Thuren specs here:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ication_Shock_Torque_Warning.pdf?v=1661893857

Front Shock - Top - (Thuren specs)?
Front Shock - Bottom - 35 ft-lbs plus 105 degrees

Rear Shock - Top - (Thuren specs)?
Rear Shock - Bottom - 133 ft-lbs

Power Hop Damper - Top - Bilstein specs?
Power Hop Damper - Bottom - Bilstein specs?

What’s important with shocks is the tightness on the stem / pin (top) nut that compresses the bushings which thuren explains well in that document.

The eyelet (bottom) end of the shock has a bushing that has a steel sleeve through the middle so you don’t need to worry about bushing deformation due to tightening the bolt. The shocks will likely come with the bushing and sleeve not pre installed in the eyelet. Use a little lube and a bench vise to easily press the bushing in and then press the sleeve through it.

 

[Brutal_HO]

So following up on this as I'm getting ready to replace my shocks and there is info scattered about:
For the top it was mentioned to follow Thuren specs here:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ication_Shock_Torque_Warning.pdf?v=1661893857

Front Shock - Top - (Thuren specs)? - Bilstein install said "snug to shaft shoulder"
Front Shock - Bottom - 35 ft-lbs plus 105 degrees

Rear Shock - Top - (Thuren specs)? - same size stud/nut as the bottom so I did 133
Rear Shock - Bottom - 133 ft-lbs

Power Hop Damper - Top - Bilstein specs?
Power Hop Damper - Bottom - Bilstein specs?

 

[Gondul]

What’s important with shocks is the tightness on the stem / pin (top) nut that compresses the bushings which thuren explains well in that document.

The eyelet (bottom) end of the shock has a bushing that has a steel sleeve through the middle so you don’t need to worry about bushing deformation due to tightening the bolt. The shocks will likely come with the bushing and sleeve not pre installed in the eyelet. Use a little lube and a bench vise to easily press the bushing in and then press the sleeve through it.

Thanks...

So I took a look and the Bilstein already have a sleeve in the eye... the kit appears to be for the stem.
It appears to have a sleeve for the stem so it appears that overtorquing it shouldn't be too much of a concern, but I will compare that to what Thuren has for instructions.

 

[Gondul]

@Brutal_HO
View attachment 50750

Hmmm... so I'm gonna guess the rears are different from the 3500 to the 2500s?
My rears are just like the front, eye on the bottom and stem at the top.

 

[Brutal_HO]

@Brutal_HO
View attachment 50750

Hmmm... so I'm gonna guess the rears are different from the 3500 to the 2500s?
My rears are just like the front, eye on the bottom and stem at the top.

That would certainly be different then.

I do not advise tightening a pin top nut to 133 ft.lb. LOL

 

[Gondul]

That would certainly be different then.

I do not advise tightening a pin top nut to 133 ft.lb. LOL

And this is why we put our truck info in the Sig Line in case we forget to mention it in the post!!

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

My 2500 has pin/stem top and eye bottom both front and rear

 

[IndyRamMega]

@Brutal_HO
View attachment 50750

Hmmm... so I'm gonna guess the rears are different from the 3500 to the 2500s?
My rears are just like the front, eye on the bottom and stem at the top.

Yes....3500's have an eye on both ends for the rears ...2500's are all eye bottomed and pin topped....

 

[Brutal_HO]

And this is why we put our truck info in the Sig Line in case we forget to mention it in the post!!

True, but sig lines don't show up on tapatalk.

Nonetheless, we all expect you to add PINTOP rear shocks to your sig line.

 

[Gondul]

So more "conflicting" information fun..

Front shocks, lower eye.

@Brutal_HO posted that it was 35 ft-lbs plus 105 degrees
Thuren says 100ft-lbs (minimum) for eyelets... other forums I'm also seeing 100ft-lbs but no mention of where the info is being obtained.
Shock tower nuts seem to be 55ft-lbs.

One more day to getting everything installed...

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

A quick ugga duga works well but really just look up the TQ spec for the fastener size and go from there usually shock eyelet bolts are anywhere from 50-100ft lbs but it really does not matter the bolt is just pinching on the steel spacer. Dont over think it

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

The shock will work unless the bolt falls out. Just make sure it’s tight enough to not ever fall out.

 

[Gondul]

A quick ugga duga works well but really just look up the TQ spec for the fastener size and go from there usually shock eyelet bolts are anywhere from 50-100ft lbs but it really does not matter the bolt is just pinching on the steel spacer. Dont over think it

My job is specifically to over think *everything*

 

[Gondul]

This why I have trust issues...
Front driver side liner by shock...I haven't had any work on the truck which would have required access to this area.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

This why I have trust issues...
Front driver side liner by shock...I haven't had any work on the truck which would have required access to this area.
View attachment 50923

Thats pretty crappy i would have been mad the liners have enough flex no need to cut them

 

[Gondul]

Thats pretty crappy i would have been mad the liners have enough flex no need to cut them

Oh, I'm upset.. but at this point I have no idea when it would have been done.
The only 'major' thing it has been in the shop for is the A/C TSB.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Oh, I'm upset.. but at this point I have no idea when it would have been done.
The only 'major' thing it has been in the shop for is the A/C TSB.

WTH?

Did you ever have it in for cab clunks?

 

[Gondul]

WTH?

Did you ever have it in for cab clunks?

Sure the hell didn't...
The only major thing has been the A/C TSB... honestly most of trips to the dealer have been for either Recall or TSB.
The only two things were the headlight switch stopped working and was replaced as was a license plate LED.

I have *zero* idea how (or why) that cutout is in the liner.