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Big 3 wiring upgrade

ClawSS

ClawSS

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Lexington, KY
I'm trying to search to see if others have done this upgrade. Hard to search on small words and I'm not sure what else to call it.
Big 3 = new Alt to Battery+ , new Bat- to ground, new Engine to ground.

I know there are enough stereo guys out there and others with high amperage accessories that may have completed the work with some guidance on where they ran wires and made good connections.
 
Are you having issues? The factory wiring is pretty decent on these trucks. I’ve had no issues pulling 100+A.
 
The OEM setup has no issue running a big winch on a single battery it should handle your audio rather well
 
What alternator(s) does your truck have?

No matter, the stock wiring is designed for pretty high power draw for winches, plows, etc.
 
Thanks guys....I opt'd for the 220a when I ordered. I have no issues with how it is performing with practically no load, and I had a good feeling that the stock wiring may be rated to that spec.
If I were to ask for a peak of 160a-180a, I was wanting to make sure I wouldn't get any drop...dimming lights, etc.. Grounding seems to be the most important if there were upgrades, I guess.

I=(2000w/13.8v)=145a / .80 (amplifier efficiency) = 181a possible draw. Not continuous, but estimated peak.

And of course anything lower on the wattage front just nets to lower draw.
 
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Between a grid heater and a winch your boom boom stereo isn't going to put a dent in the electrical system of the truck
 
Yeah, you're not going to have any problem. This thing isn't a 1996 Civic, the electrical system was built for work. There's a 300A rated power point in the engine bay.
 
AH64ID said:
You can get some good info on the alternator output here.

BLUF: With a hot engine bay you need to be at ~2,250 rpms to match a demand of 180A.


I'd upgrade and add a 2nd alternator before upgrading the OEM wiring. That would be over 200A available at idle in a hot engine bay.
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Those RPMs are alternator RPMs, so with the 220A on a Hemi at 200* the engine would need to be at 2070 RPMs (engine rpm x 2.9 = alt rpm).
 
jsalbre said:
Those RPMs are alternator RPMs, so with the 220A on a Hemi at 200* the engine would need to be at 2070 RPMs (engine rpm x 2.9 = alt rpm).
Click to expand...

I did that math already….

Which would be obvious if you looked at the chart and looked at my post.

The OP said 181A, not the 179A that you used :cool:
 
AH64ID said:
I did that math already….

Which would be obvious if you looked at the chart and looked at my post.

The OP said 181A, not the 179A that you used :cool:
Click to expand...
179.4A seems close enough if he’s only worried about 181A momentary peak (that would be a hell of a bass hit).

I wasn’t quoting your post to say I disagreed with you, just to help others understand that those charts aren’t engine RPM. I’ve seen lots of people get confused on that.
 
jsalbre said:
179.4A seems close enough if he’s only worried about 181A momentary peak (that would be a hell of a bass hit).

I wasn’t quoting your post to say I disagreed with you, just to help others understand that those charts aren’t engine RPM. I’ve seen lots of people get confused on that.
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179 would normally be close enough, except there was a line that said 181.4A, which is closer to the OP’s 181A.. and made it look like you were correcting my info.

I guess I give folks more credit, as the chart says alternator rpms and gives you the pulley ratio. I haven’t seen a lot of folks misinterpret those charts, but then again I haven’t seen a lot of folks use them either.

I have always wondered why you can only get a 220/160 combo on the 6.4L thou, vs a 220/220 on the diesel. The belt can handle it, so it’s it an engine issue?
 
AH64ID said:
179 would normally be close enough, except there was a line that said 181.4A, which is closer to the OP’s 181A.. and made it look like you were correcting my info.

I guess I give folks more credit, as the chart says alternator rpms and gives you the pulley ratio. I haven’t seen a lot of folks misinterpret those charts, but then again I haven’t seen a lot of folks use them either.

I have always wondered why you can only get a 220/160 combo on the 6.4L thou, vs a 220/220 on the diesel. The belt can handle it, so it’s it an engine issue?
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I’ve wondered the same thing. Maybe they decided a pair of 220A was too much HP draw? I don’t have a need for more than 380A, but I’ve thought about swapping a second 220A on there just for the hell of it to see how it goes. I’m not sure I could just I the cost for fun though.
 
I appreciate this discussion and thank you all for having it. I have been told that dual alts. are usually more trouble than they are worth due to the odd belt length and routing + tension. Just hearsay though. I have no experience with that setup as I;m not a diesel guy at all. I've swapped to "bigger" alternators due to long ago stereo competitions (read that as late 80's early 90's)....but dropped out of that scene due to other obligations.
 
ClawSS said:
I appreciate this discussion and thank you all for having it. I have been told that dual alts. are usually more trouble than they are worth due to the odd belt length and routing + tension. Just hearsay though. I have no experience with that setup as I;m not a diesel guy at all. I've swapped to "bigger" alternators due to long ago stereo competitions (read that as late 80's early 90's)....but dropped out of that scene due to other obligations.
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t be afraid of dual alternators on modern rigs. Even with big single alternators you can’t get the output of duals at idle, or the longevity. The average alternator workload is lower with duals so they should last a lot longer than a big single.

Sure there aren’t as many dual setups on the road as single, but belts don’t fail while driving down the highway like they used to so I wouldn’t worry about that.

You don’t have to be a diesel guy to have dual alternators, it’s a factory option on the 6.4 and probably how I would have ordered the truck for what you’re planning. I don’t know if it’s as easy to add on the 6.4 after the fact thou, but I suspect it it’s. You should just need the bracket, alternator, and + wiring to the battery. The field control wiring should be there. Then all you do is enable it at the dealer or with AlfaOBD.
 
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