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What happened to Rich?

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I have chrome tips on my Audi and they suck to keep looking nice. That said, they're tucked up and don't get a lot of TLC after 17 years.
Im thinking your right, it would probably look great but be a constant pain to keep looking good. I like maintenance free
 
Whatever you put on...you can always take off ... if YOU don’t like it. Keep it on if YOU do. Enjoy that new ride Rich, put some bling on it, you know you want to !! I see you updated your icon to the Ram badge, good for you.
 
Whatever you put on...you can always take off ... if YOU don’t like it. Keep it on if YOU do. Enjoy that new ride Rich, put some bling on it, you know you want to !! I see you updated your icon to the Ram badge, good for you.
10/4 driver, ill work on truck bio.
 
All right, WTF am I doing wrong, were do you put your build bio at. Apparently I started it at the wrong spot because it won't let me keep typing an some of your alls bio is allot longer than mine
 
This is all i could find in a pinch, not gonna spend all day looking uo quotes, going out to play.
Towing Requirements To promote proper break-in of your new vehicle drivetrain components, the following guidelines are recommended.Perform the maintenance listed in the “Sched-uled Servicing”. Refer to “Scheduled Servicing” in “Servicing And Maintenance” for the proper maintenance intervals. When towing a trailer, never exceed the GAWR or GCWR ratings.CAUTION!Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500miles (805km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.Then, during the first 500miles (805km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50mph (80km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

Thanks for finding that quote.

One section of the manual says, "The Cummins turbocharged diesel engine does not require a break-in period due to its construction. ... engine run-in is enhanced by loaded operating conditions ... within the first 6,000 miles." To me, "loaded operating conditions" means the truck is being challenged with a load, like a trailer.

Yet, another part of the manual says, "Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (805km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged."

I think the safest course of action is to take the most conservative of the two recommendations.
 
Thanks for finding that quote.

One section of the manual says, "The Cummins turbocharged diesel engine does not require a break-in period due to its construction. ... engine run-in is enhanced by loaded operating conditions ... within the first 6,000 miles." To me, "loaded operating conditions" means the truck is being challenged with a load, like a trailer.

Yet, another part of the manual says, "Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (805km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged."

I think the safest course of action is to take the most conservative of the two recommendations.
Yeah, that's what I'm doing even though it's hard an not in my nature to hold them horses back. I figure since when she gets that 26,000 lb RV in a couple yrs , I better try to break it in right. I'll drive under 60 for the first 500 miles than ill get after it until the first time I haul my current 13,000lb fiver then I'll keep it around 60 again an try not to apply to much torque for that first 400 mile pull trip. Then after that first pull trip , it's time to saddle up an kick the tires an light the fires an go cat go
 
You should break in the rear end gear set and try not to tow heavy during the first 500 miles. I ran my <4K boat up to the scales 30 miles and back as part of my break in and scaled the truck without all the toys in it and the boat.

I tend not to use cruise, vary speeds, and don't run it for too long for the first 300 miles, taking frequent breaks to cycle the temp in the rear diff. Running around town with a few jaunts on the highway is, IMHO, a good break in.

During the no towing, I pretty much drive it like I stole it. I'll probably have much more than 500 on it before I get to tow heavy (if 16K is heavy).

Our first trip is scheduled for late June though we usually do a shakedown run without the boat end of May. Not sure if we'll be able to do that one. That will get me to where I'm confident I can pull raton pass at whatever speed other traffic will allow me to run. :-)

Last time I did the diff service on my 04.5 at 60K the gears still looked almost like new but with a very nice even and light wear pattern.
 
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You should break in the rear end gear set and try not to tow heavy during the first 500 miles. I ran my <4K boat up to the scales 30 miles and back as part of my break in and scaled the truck without all the toys in it and the boat.

I tend not to use cruise, vary speeds, and don't run it for too long for the first 300 miles, taking frequent breaks to cycle the temp in the rear diff. Running around town with a few jaunts on the highway is, IMHO, a good break in.

During the no towing, I pretty much drive it like I stole it. I'll probably have much more than 500 on it before I get to tow heavy (if 16K is heavy).

Our first trip is scheduled for late June though we usually do a shakedown run without the boat end of May. Not sure if we'll be able to do that one. That will get me to where I'm confident I can pull raton pass at whatever speed other traffic will allow me to run. :)

Last time I did the diff service on my 04.5 at 60K the gears still looked almost like new but with a very nice even and light wear pattern.
I'd say these things are probably pretty rock solid , that's why all our different methods don't really make one technique better or worse than another. They probably just had a handful of rear ends that ended up like cheerios, so they post that caution break in period to CTA . Makes no sense how one guy can put the tq down an ramp it up to 120+ an another guy feathers it an not go over 60 an it makes no difference what so ever.
 
I also took the nasty valve stem caps off, some had debris inside of the cap. I put Stainless Steel DOT type capless caps on. 4ea shorty and 2ea 2 inch for the inside rears.
See Pictures below.
Be careful with SS caps on TPM system valve stems. Many of these stems are alloy and will react adversely (dissimilar metal corrosion) with steel caps.
 
Hers my take from my ole days with race and hot street engines. We ran em hard from the start, some people took several hundred miles, same outcome. Rear gear, me thinks its just to CTA, as in, if noise developes, they can fix before catastrophic damage is done(think improper set-up by the new guy or utility person). That being said, issues would show themselves early, (Backlash and noise)and no way to prove your break in was at fault, unless you report it before the break in mileage. Just my $.001 worth due to inflation.
 
Be careful with SS caps on TPM system valve stems. Many of these stems are alloy and will react adversely (dissimilar metal corrosion) with steel caps.

Yup. Same thing with alum & brass. If you use external (aftermarket) TPM sensors, they are available in both metals.
 
Hers my take from my ole days with race and hot street engines. We ran em hard from the start, some people took several hundred miles, same outcome. Rear gear, me thinks its just to CTA, as in, if noise developes, they can fix before catastrophic damage is done(think improper set-up by the new guy or utility person). That being said, issues would show themselves early, (Backlash and noise)and no way to prove your break in was at fault, unless you report it before the break in mileage. Just my $.001 worth due to inflation.
My dealer already called an asked how I liked it an if I was towing with it yet. Haha , I said no I've got to wait until after 500 miles before I tow. He was checking me, i no he was. Probably what ever, every ones preference of driving is, they'll all probably react the same except for the one off parts failures wich would break under either condition.
Yup. Same thing with alum & brass. If you use external (aftermarket) TPM sensors, they are available in both metals.
Yup, you just got to be careful when you buy your after mkt sensors to match them up with the same kind of metal on the valve stems.
 
Went early to wally world this morning an stocked up fer another two wks . In Arkansas, they weren't over busy an they were totally stocked up on everything, even pork ribs for the smoker. Everyone still in masks an gloves. Definitely is super nice not having to touch an look for my truck key an wonder what pocket it's in. Everything just starts an shuts off an locks an unlocks by just being close or by hitting a button. I love it. Just got to get used to using those step ups an not just sliding out off of the leather seats. I imagine they won't hold up to long doing that.
 
Just got on the mopar owners site an they got a credit card im getting. Zero % for 6 months an when you spend 499 you get 100 back. Sound like a discounted camera system to me. There's also a 15% off coupon on mopar purchases with up to a max 200 in savings. Think I'm having lunch then going down to the dealership
 
Just got on the mopar owners site an they got a credit card im getting. Zero % for 6 months an when you spend 499 you get 100 back. Sound like a discounted camera system to me. There's also a 15% off coupon on mopar purchases with up to a max 200 in savings. Think I'm having lunch then going down to the dealership
Going down to harass and dicker some more, no doubt.:D
 
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