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What did you do TO your RAM today?

How difficult are those to remove? Just imagine getting a flat and having to spend 30 minutes trying to get those off.
They come with a little tool, but regular pliers would work just fine in a pinch. There is a lip on them and they are plastic. There are several ways you could get them off in a pinch or emergency.
 
Put my rhino rack vortex bars on my topper. I had the topper built with tracks so it was plug and play.

Few notes about them:

Took about a month to get them from eTrailer despite being in stock and estimated 2 day delivery time. ETrailer said they shipped but USPS said they never received the item. I have no proof but I assume USPS to be the culprit here.

I was surprised to see the leg locking bars are made of plastic. A review i read complained of rust in the mechanism, so perhaps they changed away from steel. Time will tell how it holds up.

The instructions show split lock washers and flat washers on each bolt, but they only sent a couple of the split lock washers. I’ll grab some and throw them on later.

Fit and finish is good. They look pretty good, strong and tight lockup.

I don’t particularly like that now I have three tools to keep track of. A bar-end key, an actual key to lock the legs, and a 5mm safety Allen key (all included) but they need to float around in my truck for eternity now.

810839C9-ED6F-4E8B-ACB3-3BBB771B2693.jpeg93219A0D-34A5-4071-B9E9-8494809298A7.jpeg
 
No bug deflector?! What's the mattuh wit you?

I was very over black after selling the 2nd gen but this truck is perfect. I like it, again lol.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
No bug deflector?! What's the mattuh wit you?

I was very over black after selling the 2nd gen but this truck is perfect. I like it, again lol.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Thanks dude. It’s filthy but I swear the px8 black (non-metallic) doesn’t care how dirty it is, shines in pics somehow.
 
Put my rhino rack vortex bars on my topper. I had the topper built with tracks so it was plug and play.

Few notes about them:

Took about a month to get them from eTrailer despite being in stock and estimated 2 day delivery time. ETrailer said they shipped but USPS said they never received the item. I have no proof but I assume USPS to be the culprit here.

I was surprised to see the leg locking bars are made of plastic. A review i read complained of rust in the mechanism, so perhaps they changed away from steel. Time will tell how it holds up.

The instructions show split lock washers and flat washers on each bolt, but they only sent a couple of the split lock washers. I’ll grab some and throw them on later.

Fit and finish is good. They look pretty good, strong and tight lockup.

I don’t particularly like that now I have three tools to keep track of. A bar-end key, an actual key to lock the legs, and a 5mm safety Allen key (all included) but they need to float around in my truck for eternity now.

View attachment 35460View attachment 35461
I really like that bumper. I want one but I want to have it chromed so it will match the rest of the truck I just need the $6000 for the bumper and 16k winch.
 
I really like that bumper. I want one but I want to have it chromed so it will match the rest of the truck I just need the $6000 for the bumper and 16k winch.
Not sure how well chrome sticks to textured powder coat but I’m sure with a little bit of money you can make anything happen
 
I’m thinking about the Roll N Lock cover but I have a cooler that I carry. In the bed of the truck and wondering how much lower the cover sits from the top of the bed. How much height do you have under the lowest part of the cove.) It’s not the canister that I am concerned about… just the cover.
According to my same question to Roll N Lock, the cover at the tailgate end is a max of 2” lower than the top of the bed.
 
Removed the Leer Latitude soft tri fold bed cover. I tried using this cover for a few months but the flapping noise from the cover has grown to include a rattle from the frame because Leer customer service had me stretch the cover (to try to reduce the flapping noise) by lengthening the frame so much that it was no longer held together tightly at the front corners.

When I removed it I noticed the cheap arse vinyl flap at the front had abraded the rear wall of the cab. This flap sticks straight out instead of curling down along the front bed wall like I’ve seen other covers do with a molded rubber flap. Hoping the scratches will buff out.

I installed an Extang Trifecta ALX and will see how I like it. Much better seal at the front of the bed. no annoying flap or anything over the front bed wall. The rear latches fixed to the bed sides are not as robust as the Leer’s version but they work. The ALX has the rotate to release feature on the driver’s side where Leer had Cync latch releases on both which was nice.

Something I did not notice in reviews and videos of the ALX is it does have some bow to it versus a flat fit as many other soft trim fold covers have. This helps with flapping by detracts cosmetically. Trade offs.

I’ll add photos later of the ALX. Here are the damn scratches.
55D9FAB8-3E3A-4610-9841-57D0FA799A2F.jpeg
 
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