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Anyone done the DSR1 on the 2019 HD's?

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BigOlMega

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Amplifier appears to be in the same location under the driver dash, however, idatalink does not appear to have a direct guide.
 
I'd like to know this as well. I had a DSR1 on my (sold) Ford F350. Loved it!
 
I'm not sure if the DSR1 works with our trucks.
I've just installed the "PAC AP4-CH41 (R.2) and I can confirm that it works fine.

What I found is: our trucks (2500 and 3500's) premium system (Harman kardon) is a 17 Speaker system, versus the 1500's have a 19 speaker system.
Consequently: our amplifier it's a 10 chanel output instead of 12 channels, when it comes to wiring adaptors / integration to the existing vehicle wiring there is nothing in the market available yet.
The HK 17 speaker amp has two 22 pin connectors and one 10 pin connector, the HK 19 speaker amp has two 21 pin connectors and one 16 pin connector.
 
Yeah, I have tried repeatedly to get a response from Idatalink and so far nothing
 
ST3500 said:
I'm not sure if the DSR1 works with our trucks.
I've just installed the "PAC AP4-CH41 (R.2) and I can confirm that it works fine.

What I found is: our trucks (2500 and 3500's) premium system (Harman kardon) is a 17 Speaker system, versus the 1500's have a 19 speaker system.
Consequently: our amplifier it's a 10 chanel output instead of 12 channels, when it comes to wiring adaptors / integration to the existing vehicle wiring there is nothing in the market available yet.
The HK 17 speaker amp has two 22 pin connectors and one 10 pin connector, the HK 19 speaker amp has two 21 pin connectors and one 16 pin connector.
Click to expand...

So that unit goes behind the radio for the connection, or at the factory amp just under the drive side dash? Looking at the connection chart, it seems to indicate it has a provision to connect to the speakers without cutting the factory output harness or running new wires, correct?
 
BigOlMega said:
So that unit goes behind the radio for the connection, or at the factory amp just under the drive side dash? Looking at the connection chart, it seems to indicate it has a provision to connect to the speakers without cutting the factory output harness or running new wires, correct?
Click to expand...

The PAC unit fits behind the radio, let me clarify this for you: directly behind the 12" screen (once removed) you will find the actual "brains of the radio unit", its quite of a big component attached with 4 screws.
Once you unscrew the module (beforehand, you better disconnect the 12" screen and console, and set it out of the way) you will find all sorts of connections terminating into the backside of it.
You disconnect the main rectangular connector that matches the harness that comes with the AP4-CH41 and you connect your wire harness as per instructions.
I was able to lodge the PAC module right underneath (slightly to the left) of the radio "brains module", with 3 sets of RCA's pointed downwards. As for the wiring harness: I did routed as much as possible onto a cavity right under the left side air vent duct to allow the radio main module / brains to clear.

The PAC "speaker wire connector" is intended for non amplified applications, if you have the Harman kardon (amplified) sistem you can't use that option.

Bottom line: when you add the PAC you're pretty much committed to bypass the factory amplifier (but keep in mind that the factory amplifier has to remain connected in order to retain CAN bus communication) and consequently you will have to add aftermarket amplifiers (if you want to do it right: between the PAC and the aftermarket amplifiers you should add a Digital Signal Processor, for optimum / ultimate tuning).

BTW: If you disconnect the radio module main connector you will temporarily lose all of your applications and the onboard cameras upon re-connecting. Don't panic, after a few start cycles they will all come back (apparently the radio module will slowly re-boot when the truck is off, with the windows up, and locked / parked).
 
ST3500 said:
The PAC unit fits behind the radio, let me clarify this for you: directly behind the 12" screen (once removed) you will find the actual "brains of the radio unit", its quite of a big component attached with 4 screws.
Once you unscrew the module (beforehand, you better disconnect the 12" screen and console, and set it out of the way) you will find all sorts of connections terminating into the backside of it.
You disconnect the main rectangular connector that matches the harness that comes with the AP4-CH41 and you connect your wire harness as per instructions.
I was able to lodge the PAC module right underneath (slightly to the left) of the radio "brains module", with 3 sets of RCA's pointed downwards. As for the wiring harness: I did routed as much as possible onto a cavity right under the left side air vent duct to allow the radio main module / brains to clear.

The PAC "speaker wire connector" is intended for non amplified applications, if you have the Harman kardon (amplified) sistem you can't use that option.

Bottom line: when you add the PAC you're pretty much committed to bypass the factory amplifier (but keep in mind that the factory amplifier has to remain connected in order to retain CAN bus communication) and consequently you will have to add aftermarket amplifiers (if you want to do it right: between the PAC and the aftermarket amplifiers you should add a Digital Signal Processor, for optimum / ultimate tuning).

BTW: If you disconnect the radio module main connector you will temporarily lose all of your applications and the onboard cameras upon re-connecting. Don't panic, after a few start cycles they will all come back (apparently the radio module will slowly re-boot when the truck is off, with the windows up, and locked / parked).
Click to expand...



Thanks. I am not stranger to car audio so that is what I was expecting. The idatalink cables connected at the actual amplifier under the dash, which was a ton easier in my '16. I did try the PAC unit they had for the 16 and ended up having alot of trouble with it, engine noise, etc. When I switched to the DSR1 all my sound issues were gone. I don't want to cut anything on this truck, so I will probably wait on the idatalink solution.
 
BigOlMega said:
Thanks. I am not stranger to car audio so that is what I was expecting. The idatalink cables connected at the actual amplifier under the dash, which was a ton easier in my '16. I did try the PAC unit they had for the 16 and ended up having alot of trouble with it, engine noise, etc. When I switched to the DSR1 all my sound issues were gone. I don't want to cut anything on this truck, so I will probably wait on the idatalink solution.
Click to expand...

Interesting..... I have a PAC on my 2005 RAM interface for the steering wheel audio control, and up to this day (I still have the truck) it works once in a blue moon .
I also had the Alpine X009-RAM Restyle Audio System on my 2016 RAM, the kit came with the iDatalink Maestro module and the radio will always shutdown every time I ended a telephone conversation...….. I re-flashed it a few times and it worked OK for a few weeks, and then …........back to the same issue. I ended up selling the truck with the Alpine radio including the iDatalink Maestro (almost a $ 3,000.00 unit, the buyer was very happy to have it!!).

It's kind of like a hit and miss with those interfaces, fortunately this latest one that I have (PAC AP4-CH41 R.2) it's working without any issues, for now......

You don't have to cut a single wire on your truck factory wiring, I was able to find a 10 pin wiring harness that with a little homework / research on our truck wiring (according that you have the HK 17 speakers 750W system) I was able to adapt to the truck factory speakers wiring !!
If you're interested i will forward you the info.

I'm currently upgrading the audio system on my truck (truck is only 2 months old with 1,200 miles), so far: I have installed a JL Audio XD-PCS2-2B power connection kit (premium 2 AWG) from the front battery to the back seats. Then I have run all speakers wires to the 10 pin and 21 pin connectors, I just installed a JL Stealthbox with 2 10" subwoofers (that fits perfectly under the rear seats) connected to a JL Audio RD 1000/1 amplifier (yea, kind of little overkill for a 600W subwoofer..... better to have a little extra margin that running the amp at his maximum output), and .....for the rest of the speakers: (except for the center dashboard chanel) I temporarily connected a JL XD400/4v2 that I had laying around on my garage.
I'm currently waiting for a HELIX V Eight DSP arriving sometimes next week from Germany, that DSP unit will run all 10 channels (I will need an extra amp for the center channel, I'm thinking of the little MOSCONI Pico 2).
 
I called Idatalink, and apparently, they think the CH4 harness will work as intended with the DSR1, however, they are not sure the pin colors are correct and they suggested testing it the speakers. I have a CH4 that I ordered so I will take a look this weekend.
 
ST3500 said:
Interesting..... I have a PAC on my 2005 RAM interface for the steering wheel audio control, and up to this day (I still have the truck) it works once in a blue moon .
I also had the Alpine X009-RAM Restyle Audio System on my 2016 RAM, the kit came with the iDatalink Maestro module and the radio will always shutdown every time I ended a telephone conversation...….. I re-flashed it a few times and it worked OK for a few weeks, and then …........back to the same issue. I ended up selling the truck with the Alpine radio including the iDatalink Maestro (almost a $ 3,000.00 unit, the buyer was very happy to have it!!).

It's kind of like a hit and miss with those interfaces, fortunately this latest one that I have (PAC AP4-CH41 R.2) it's working without any issues, for now......

You don't have to cut a single wire on your truck factory wiring, I was able to find a 10 pin wiring harness that with a little homework / research on our truck wiring (according that you have the HK 17 speakers 750W system) I was able to adapt to the truck factory speakers wiring !!
If you're interested i will forward you the info.

I'm currently upgrading the audio system on my truck (truck is only 2 months old with 1,200 miles), so far: I have installed a JL Audio XD-PCS2-2B power connection kit (premium 2 AWG) from the front battery to the back seats. Then I have run all speakers wires to the 10 pin and 21 pin connectors, I just installed a JL Stealthbox with 2 10" subwoofers (that fits perfectly under the rear seats) connected to a JL Audio RD 1000/1 amplifier (yea, kind of little overkill for a 600W subwoofer..... better to have a little extra margin that running the amp at his maximum output), and .....for the rest of the speakers: (except for the center dashboard chanel) I temporarily connected a JL XD400/4v2 that I had laying around on my garage.
I'm currently waiting for a HELIX V Eight DSP arriving sometimes next week from Germany, that DSP unit will run all 10 channels (I will need an extra amp for the center channel, I'm thinking of the little MOSCONI Pico 2).
Click to expand...
hey there, can you send me the info regarding where to tap into the factory speaker wires on the ram 2500? I have a 2019 Ram 2500 and I have added 2 alpine subs, but now i want to replace the door speakers and add an amp to those, but I can not find anyone with a T harness yet to connect to the factory wiring. Any help you can provide would be appreciated. thank you!
 
Is it possible to use the DSR1 purely as a DSP/EQ with the factory system without upgrading amps or does it completely bypass the factory amp? I'm looking at building in stages as I have free time rather than building out an entire system all at once, plus it would be great to have more control over the HK system in the interim.
 
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