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Differential Upgrades?

dablack21

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Looking at upgrading my diffs on my 2020 CCSB Tradesman Hemi.
I have the 3.73s and they don't like my 35s. I would like to go to 4.10s and some kind of selectable locker.

What would be most ideal would be to find a wrecked PW and grab the axles and the lockers. But I don't know what my options are... Where can I find gears and diffs? I haven't had much luck
 
Looking at upgrading my diffs on my 2020 CCSB Tradesman Hemi.
I have the 3.73s and they don't like my 35s. I would like to go to 4.10s and some kind of selectable locker.

What would be most ideal would be to find a wrecked PW and grab the axles and the lockers. But I don't know what my options are... Where can I find gears and diffs? I haven't had much luck
I'm right there with ya. Factory would have been less than 500 option. I have a 2022 and was told would be over 2k to change.
 
Looking at upgrading my diffs on my 2020 CCSB Tradesman Hemi.
I have the 3.73s and they don't like my 35s. I would like to go to 4.10s and some kind of selectable locker.

What would be most ideal would be to find a wrecked PW and grab the axles and the lockers. But I don't know what my options are... Where can I find gears and diffs? I haven't had much luck
35s are only 6% larger than the factory tire. The 3.73s are fine.
 
35s are only 6% larger than the factory tire. The 3.73s are fine.
No they aren't. My transmission is constantly shifting from 8th to 7th and back on the highway. I can't run 75mph in 8th. When I pull my 6400lb camper, it has to do it in 6th at 60mph.
 
My gasser prefers to tow in 6th and 7th. It will almost never hit 8th....maybe down hill on the highway. Stock transjunkers here.

Sent from my semi-smart telephonic device
 
No they aren't. My transmission is constantly shifting from 8th to 7th and back on the highway. I can't run 75mph in 8th. When I pull my 6400lb camper, it has to do it in 6th at 60mph.
Thats pretty normal on stockers…. 7th and 8th are both overdrives as 6is 1:1 so its normal to not hit 8th towing and for it to cycle between 7/8 as it needs to
 
No they aren't. My transmission is constantly shifting from 8th to 7th and back on the highway. I can't run 75mph in 8th. When I pull my 6400lb camper, it has to do it in 6th at 60mph.
You won't see 8th towing. On my 6 speed I would occasionally see 5th but would generally stay in 4th which is the same as 6th gear to you.
 
You won't see 8th towing. On my 6 speed I would occasionally see 5th but would generally stay in 4th which is the same as 6th gear to you.
I get that. But im not keen on running 3k rpm at 65 in 6th.

I guess my only option at this point is to find some PW diffs and the required electronics to go with it.
 
I get that. But im not keen on running 3k rpm at 65 in 6th.

I guess my only option at this point is to find some PW diffs and the required electronics to go with it.
If you don't like it then you should have bought a diesel…. That rpm is where the engine is making power to keep your non aerodynamic camper in motion, 4.10s wont change much
 
I get that. But im not keen on running 3k rpm at 65 in 6th.

I guess my only option at this point is to find some PW diffs and the required electronics to go with it.
Like said, you should have bought a diesel. Gas engines need rpm's to make power. If you hate 3k rpms don't ever try and climb any hills with that truck.
 
I shouldn't have started this thread. I ask about re gearing and upgrading my diffs and I get "they're fine" and "you should have gotten a diesel"
Thanks for the help.

Never bothered to consider if I like to take the truck off roading, so some locking diffs would help. Maybe I'm looking for better drivability too.

How about when I bought the truck, a diesel or a power wagon was (at the time but isn't anymore) out of my price range, and I now I am not interested in paying the prices they have with them now??
 
I shouldn't have started this thread. I ask about re gearing and upgrading my diffs and I get "they're fine" and "you should have gotten a diesel"
Thanks for the help.

Never bothered to consider if I like to take the truck off roading, so some locking diffs would help. Maybe I'm looking for better drivability too.

How about when I bought the truck, a diesel or a power wagon was (at the time but isn't anymore) out of my price range, and I now I am not interested in paying the prices they have with them now??

They are trying to help. Changing the diffs is gonna be like putting band-aid on a tumor, it's gonna be a big waste of time and money. You might get some placebo relief from it at first, but in the end it's not going to help your root problem, which is the Hemi needs to be at 3k to make the power to pull your camper.

That's not to say I don't get where your coming from, I started towing small ATV trailers with a turbo Subaru, it towed great because the turbo allowed it to make power down low (like a diesel) w/o needing to kick down and rev up. I graduated from the turbo Subaru to a Naturally aspirated Nissan frontier with a 4.0 V6 on 33" AT's, and it had the same problem you're having, towing anything on flat ground it lived at 3000rpm to make power. The moment I would hit the slightest incline it would drop into 3rd or sometimes even 2nd and SCREAM near redline to maintain speed while bouncing back & forth between gears, it also got sh*t for fuel mileage. You know what my immediate thought was? I need to regear from the OEM 3.36 gears to the OEM 3.69's that come in the manual trucks.

I did that, and guess what happened? Yea I felt an improvement taking off from a stop, but on the highway? Same problem, so I ended up blowing $1250 on parts and labor and ultimately traded it for an ecodiesel which towed like a dream until we got a trailer that was a little too big for it (34ft long 9500lbs loaded). It should be noted, it's not that our little 3.0 Turbo diesel w/3.55 gears wasn't up to the task of towing 9500lbs quietly and comfortably, it was just the trailer was too big for the 1500 platform and we were getting a bit of a tail wagging the dog situation.

Maybe instead of dropping money on new diffs, a Supercharger kit might give your Hemi the extra down low torque it needs to keep the RPMS lower while towing. Or, I don't know how big your camper is, you might be able to trade down to a Rebel ecodiesel, with all the lockers and bells and whistles you could want. Or, deal with it a little longer and take the money you would throw at diffs or a supercharger and put it into a cummins fund, and trade up when the time is right.
 
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So as others have said, a regear isn't going to do as much as you'd think, especially that small of a jump. You could jump up to higher gearing but it's going to wreck what little fuel economy you have and the engine will just drop to a lower to try and maintain it's correct RPM for maximum performance.

As a cheaper experiment, if you still have the factory wheels/tires I'd swap them on, load up your camper and take it on a little trip. Note the engine RPM and fuel economy (hand calc), then swap to the 35s and do the same. My guess is that they will be much much closer than you expect. Remember, you need to calibrate your speedo as well when you change tire size. If the computer thinks you have a smaller tire size than you actually have it's going to cause a bunch of mismatch information in the trans as well which may be part of your problem.

If you do the test, calibrate the speedo and you still find that you hate it, then by all means, it's your cash.
 
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