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Carli Pintop install DIY

AnthonyD1978

AnthonyD1978

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Well, it finally arrived after 5 months. There is a good shop not far from me that CJC actually recommended to do the install, but they are booked out until January. So it looks like I'll be tackling it myself. I'm not looking forward to drilling the frame as it's a tight space. I also might have to drop my rock sliders to drill for the radius arm drop brackets. I'm tempted to just install 2 of the 3 bolts for it and drive to the local fab shop and have them weld the brackets to the frame.

One final box should be arriving today sometime. I expect it to include the sway bar links and misc brackets/hardware. I'm going to start on the rear this morning and work on the rest through the week. A benefit of working from home. I'll try to take some pics, but don't expect a full write-up.

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I did the 2.5 on my 2500 and it really wasn't bad. Access to the top shock bolt mounts was probably the hardest part.
 
On the Power wagon with the rear at full droop the driveshaft hits the skid plate. Carli send you a bracket to lower the skid plate so you have full suspension travel. But mine doesn't arrive until today. So I had to get creative with getting the longer Carli spring to fit. I don't have a spring compressor so ratchet straps in for the win!

Don't worry those brake lines still have slack in them. I did have to remove the black wire loom you see next to the diff breather line. You can see where it was attached right below the the track bar bolt.

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I'm kind of in a holding pattern until UPS delivers my last box. I don't want to put in the passenger side shock/spring until after I drill for the rear track bar bracket. Worried about clearance issues.

I'm tempted to leave the decals off the shock. I kind of don't like the Carli logo. lol

Rear driver done.

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AnthonyD1978 said:
Since the PW is already 1" higher from the factory, it raises it 2" in the front and 1" in the rear. Other trucks get an extra 1" all around.
Click to expand...
That's what I'm afraid of. I don't need the truck any higher as I use the truck as a truck. It's hard enough climbing into the bed now. Don't need it any higher.
 
OK, I couldn't wait for the UPS guy so I started the passenger side. Hopefully, I won't have to pull anything out to have clearance to drill for the track bar bracket.

You can put a jack under the opposite side of the axle you're working on. This will pivot the other side down to give you more clearance to get the spring in there. I still used the ratchet straps to compress the spring.

Also, since I run my 37" spare under my bed rack it's much easier to work under here.

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Crusty old shellback said:
That's what I'm afraid of. I don't need the truck any higher as I use the truck as a truck. It's hard enough climbing into the bed now. Don't need it any higher.
Click to expand...

I use my Power Wagon as a Power Wagon. Install the bed step. I use mine all the time.
Don't forget you also get a few more inches of travel with this kit.
 
AnthonyD1978 said:
I did have to remove the black wire loom you see next to the diff breather line.
Click to expand...
Definitely do this on the front also. I might have completely destroyed the connector on the frame when doing a Thuren install on my 16 PW. And that was just his 1/2” lift springs, not the 1-1/2”. At least that harness extension is sold separately (I ordered 2 and the other is still in my toolbox I believe).
 
AnthonyD1978 said:
I use my Power Wagon as a Power Wagon. Install the bed step. I use mine all the time.
Don't forget you also get a few more inches of travel with this kit.
Click to expand...
I have a 75th with the bed group so it has the step. Also installed AMP steps and 35" BFGs. It's the loading/unloading the bed that keeps me from lifting. If I could get more travel without any more lift, I'd be happy.

But it looks good. Making quick work of the install.
 
So after having a work call and lunch the last Carli box was delivered. Unfortunately the rear brake line relocation brackets were all missing their hardware. I notified CJC and they are working on getting me the hardware ASAP. I was able to use the brackets with some factory hardware and zip ties for now.

I was able to finish up mounting the shocks and I also got the rear track bar bracket drilled. This was not as bad as I expected. The game changer was that I had a 90* drill adaptor and I made sure to buy a bit that had a 1/4" hex shank. Fit in the tight work space nicely. I hope it's as easy for the front bracket and I don't have to drop my rock sliders to have enough work space.

Also, I reached out to CJC on the below pic. Their instructions show the brake like bracket with a truck that does not have the shock mount on the diff. Sandwiching the bracket is the only way it would fit. It would be nice if the kit came with washers for the other two bolts on the shock mount to even it out.
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AnthonyD1978 said:
Well since posting I got the truck up and the passenger side shock and spring out. This is going almost too smoothly lol.

OEM Vs. Carli
View attachment 24296
Click to expand...
I'm surprised to see the rear shocks aren't the same additional length as the coils. The Carli coils look like they are 2-3" longer, but the shock only looks 1.5" longer. Perhaps it's the angle.

I'm interested in seeing how you like the kit vs the factory. I went with Thuren for my setup but the rear coil is so soft that any weight really pushes it down. Thinking about a few different options but curious how you like the rear coils.
 
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