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Fox (Carli) 2.0 Backcountry Shock Rear Orientation

R.J.

R.J.

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I tried looking around, but can't find any definitive answer on which way these are supposed to be installed. The photos I surfed through have some mounted upside down or the shock shafts down on others. Also, The external reservoir can also be flipped.

Here are the way I have them now just mocked up. On the left side and in this configuration, the reservoir could contact the spare tire?

PXL_20210912_225440732.jpg

On the right side, The reservoir isn't close to the exhaust, but faces forward. Looks fine to me.

PXL_20210912_225459920.jpg
 
IIRC, those clamps that hold the reservoirs to the shock body allow you to loosen and rotate the res. I ran Foxes on my Jeep and they were rotatable (lol, is that a word?)
 
Their install instructions say:

With the rear coils properly seats and the axle slightly compressed, Install your rear shocks. If equipped with reservoirs, install body down, shaft up with the reservoirs facing forward. The upper stem-top mount should be installed exactly as the front was; lower installs into the
factory shock mount and again, the torque spec is 100lb/ft and proper nitrogen charge is 225psi (at full extension).
 
Yep, loosen the clamps and turn to a position so they dont hit anything.
Resistance dont matter if they are up or down.
When the shocks are built (I rebuilt my King shocks w/remote resi) they are full of fluid, no air in them. The resi has a piston in it and it is all the way to the end that is connected to the shock. The other side of the resi is pressurised with nitrogen.
The resi is there for the fluid to go when it expands from the heat from the shock working. The nitrogen pressure can be used to fine tune the shocks.
 
Surf2snow1 said:
Their install instructions say:

With the rear coils properly seats and the axle slightly compressed, Install your rear shocks. If equipped with reservoirs, install body down, shaft up with the reservoirs facing forward. The upper stem-top mount should be installed exactly as the front was; lower installs into the
factory shock mount and again, the torque spec is 100lb/ft and proper nitrogen charge is 225psi (at full extension).
Click to expand...

All four boxes didn't have any instructions. Weird. So it look like I just need to reverse the reservoir on the left (driver) side and good to go. You can move the reservoir about 30 degrees either way by loosening the clamp as the braided line is really short.

Do any of you check the Nitrogen charge on these? The charge is probably so small hooking up a gauge would deplete most of it.
 
R.J. said:
All four boxes didn't have any instructions. Weird. So it look like I just need to reverse the reservoir on the left (driver) side and good to go. You can move the reservoir about 30 degrees either way by loosening the clamp as the braided line is really short.

Do any of you check the Nitrogen charge on these? The charge is probably so small hooking up a gauge would deplete most of it.
Click to expand...
They should be pre-charged. And you're correct - if you check pressure with a standard gauge you'll let most of the charge out. You'll need a no-leak setup to check the pressure. I wouldn't sweat it though.
 
With the Carli Pintop the reservoirs are at the bottom of the shock and facing forward. That's why I have the shock skid plates on to protect the reservoirs.

Might be the same with the Fox setup..?
 
Yea, you need a high pressure no leak gage to check them. They should be around 225 to 250 PSI. You can go up to 350 PSI I believe is max.
 
R.J. said:
All four boxes didn't have any instructions. Weird. So it look like I just need to reverse the reservoir on the left (driver) side and good to go. You can move the reservoir about 30 degrees either way by loosening the clamp as the braided line is really short.

Do any of you check the Nitrogen charge on these? The charge is probably so small hooking up a gauge would deplete most of it.
Click to expand...
Nope, you've got a 3500 leaf spring, those are referencing the 2500 coil springs that have both shocks forward.


Last page, step 14, 3500 Backcountry "Away from the Axle" But it does say body up, shaft down also.
 
I use this gauge to check the nitrogen pressure in shocks.

Topeak SmartGauge D2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051LQ0X...abc_H52SHQK1V0WCBTZW24EF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

There is so little nitrogen and such high pressure that you can easily let out A LOT of it very very quickly. However, I can refill them. (You can also take them to 4wp or other places to get them refilled)

Nitrogen pressure should not be changed by the end user unless they know what they’re doing. Changing the nitrogen pressure is not the way to tune the shock, you run the risk of cavitation if you don’t run enough nitrogen psi. The only way to tune the shock is by changing out the valve shim stacks.
 
Old thread but this is a good visualization of cavitation happening when the nitrogen pressure is low.

www.instagram.com

on Instagram: "¿Porque lleva gas un amortiguador? La razón principal por la que un amortiguador lleva gas en su interior es evitar la cavitacion. Este fenómeno se produce por la aparición de una burbujas cuando el amortiguador trabaja con variacion

shared a post on Instagram: "¿Porque lleva gas un amortiguador? La razón principal por la que un amortiguador lleva gas en su interior es evitar la cavitacion. Este fenómeno se produce por la aparición de una burbujas cuando el amortiguador trabaja con variaciones muy grandes de presión. El...
www.instagram.com www.instagram.com
 
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