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Dropping driveshaft for Carli 2.5 lift installation

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Quick

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I’m about to start the install on a Carli 2.5” Pintop lift for my ‘21 2500 with air-ride. The instructions call for dropping the front driveshaft to get the axle to drop enough. Have other folks done that? Does anyone know what the torque specs are to put it back? And I assume the bolts are reusable (vs torque to yield bolts)?
 
anything you can disconnect from the front axle will help it droop to aide in installation. I’d start with disconnecting the sway bar and shocks and seeing how much more droop you need. I assume at that lift you’re installing control arm drops or something else so you’re basically going to be disconnecting everything. It’s one of those things that “if you have to ask” you might be in over your head. Sorry not sorry.

Yes, the bolts are reusable.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
anything you can disconnect from the front axle will help it droop to aide in installation. I’d start with disconnecting the sway bar and shocks and seeing how much more droop you need. I assume at that lift you’re installing control arm drops or something else so you’re basically going to be disconnecting everything. It’s one of those things that “if you have to ask” you might be in over your head. Sorry not sorry.

Yes, the bolts are reusable.
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Yes, I’m well aware of what’s involved. Believe me, I’m far from in over my head.

the question is as I would prefer to not have to drop the driveshaft if possible. And I don’t have the torque specs for the bolts.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
Ok well i was just going off of your question. No driveshaft bolts in the history of man were “one time use”.

Hope this helps View attachment 21165
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thanks. That’s helpful, but still missing the driveshaft torque.

And for the record, the driveshaft bolts on my track car are torque to yield (as are many other bolts), so one time use and must be replaced. It’s common for manufacturers to switch to these bolts these days, though I don’t know why.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
Comparing race cars to factory vehicles is asinine and you know it.

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um, it’s a factory diff and driveshaft. I said track car, not race car.

anyway, those specs are also invalid as the 2019+ driveshafts use a cv joint on the front.

I assume at this point that you’ve neither installed the Carli 2.5” lift nor seen the Ram service manual for this vehicle. Thanks for your input, though.
 
Quick said:
um, it’s a factory diff and driveshaft. I said track car, not race car.

anyway, those specs are also invalid as the 2019+ driveshafts use a cv joint on the front.

I assume at this point that you’ve neither installed the Carli 2.5” lift nor seen the Ram service manual for this vehicle. Thanks for your input, though.
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Cool. Enjoy your day, sir
 
Confirming I did not need to drop the driveshaft to install the Carli level springs. I had an inch or two to spare after drooping out the driveshaft.
 
You think any shop tqs the drive shaft? Use german specs and be done with it…. Also tty bolts in a driveshaft would be the dummest thing ever as the tq could cause them to stretch and snap…. What kind of “track car” do you have as i have never seen any tty driveshaft bolts
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
You think any shop tqs the drive shaft? Use german specs and be done with it…. Also tty bolts in a driveshaft would be the dummest thing ever as the tq could cause them to stretch and snap…. What kind of “track car” do you have as i have never seen any tty driveshaft bolts
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I never measure my work by what what other people do, but rather try and make sure I do it the manner recommended by the engineers.

Apologies, my driveshaft bolts on my track car are not TTY, but rather are called for replacement each time for some other reason.
 
Quick said:
I never measure my work by what what other people do, but rather try and make sure I do it the manner recommended by the engineers.

Apologies, my driveshaft bolts on my track car are not TTY, but rather are called for replacement each time for some other reason.
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Track car or drag car?

Sounds like a drag car and not a track car. :p
 
In my experience, some bolts that come with factory installed loctite are recommended to be replaced each time, such as the 8mm bolt that connects the ignition rotor shaft to the cam gear sleeve on my Porsche. It’s just easier for them to control variables that way rather than telling the service tech to apply loctite. Use common sense and you will make it through life just fine.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
In my experience, some bolts that come with factory installed loctite are recommended to be replaced each time, such as the 8mm bolt that connects the ignition rotor shaft to the cam gear sleeve on my Porsche. It’s just easier for them to control variables that way rather than telling the service tech to apply loctite. Use common sense and you will make it through life just fine.
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This is common with head bolts too.
 
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