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Wheel spacer width

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Catmechanic

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I searched both the forum and Google without much luck. I will be leveling my new 2020 CTD and going to 35s, but I love the laramie longhorn wheels coming on my truck. I've seen a number of people run similar setups and all have 2" spacers. Mathematically, a 1.5" spacer would be a better choice because that would be a +15 and closer to the +18 sweet spot that CJC refers to vs the +2 with a 2" spacer.

My question is does anyone know if I can run a 1.5" without cutting the wheel studs or are they shorter than 1.5"?
 
My 2 cents...I’d put the tires you like on it first, see if they even rub, my bet is it would be close, but it depends on the specific tire, they are almost never the actual size printed on the sidewall, and if they do you can get your spacers after that. I would keep it more around +15. Mine is at +12 and I have about 2 inches of tire sticking out. I have seen and owned a lot of dodges on oem rims and 35s, without spacers and without rubbing.
 
Very interested in this thread for size and spacer mfg recs, I know it’s not the smartest but I too love the oem 20s and will be running 275/65s in a commercial traction tire. Let’s keep this thread going until we have some good info/photos! My one big thought I always come back to on spacer safety is the fact drw trucks from the factory technically run a quality steel spacer up front and never have issues
 
Also keep in mind that offset is meaningless without also including wheel width. An 8" wide wheel with a +18 offset will look and got completely different than a 9" wheel with a +18 offset. The 8" would have a backspace of 5.2", and 4.8" of wheel outboard of the mounting surface. The 9" wheel would have a backspace of 5.7" and 5.3" of wheel outboard of the mounting surface. That's going to change both clearances for the wheel/tire in the wheel well, and how far the wheel/tire stick out of the wheel well.

As far as the cutting the studs, most wheels have pockets on the backside between the lug holes. If your studs are proud of the spacer, they usually will go into that dead space in the wheel mounting surface, so you don't have to cut them.
 
Not exactly meaningless, as your tire width won’t be effected, so offset will ultimately be the end all be all of where that tire sits relative to the fender.
 
saltman said:
Very interested in this thread for size and spacer mfg recs, I know it’s not the smartest but I too love the oem 20s and will be running 275/65s in a commercial traction tire. Let’s keep this thread going until we have some good info/photos! My one big thought I always come back to on spacer safety is the fact drw trucks from the factory technically run a quality steel spacer up front and never have issues
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Nothing wrong with spacers if the proper torque and retorque is done
 
Question, are the 2 different oem 20s available for our trucks both 20x8 or is one 20x9?
 
I would also try it first without the wheel spacers. My 19 laramie barely rubbed at full lock reverse with 35 12.5 Cooper ST Maxx. I just dealt with it. I have made several posts about spacers here with not much luck. Ultimately, you'll need 2" spacers. Anything less will require you to trim your wheel studs. I ended up buying new wheels with a +12 offset for my 20 tradesman because quality spacers were going to be pricey.
 
dablack21 said:
I would also try it first without the wheel spacers. My 19 laramie barely rubbed at full lock reverse with 35 12.5 Cooper ST Maxx. I just dealt with it. I have made several posts about spacers here with not much luck. Ultimately, you'll need 2" spacers. Anything less will require you to trim your wheel studs. I ended up buying new wheels with a +12 offset for my 20 tradesman because quality spacers were going to be pricey.
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This.

GOOD quality spacers are damn near the cost of a new wheel. Do not buy cheap spacers if you plan on doing anything truck related with your truck.
 
Bora spacers are pretty commonly used. Curious if there is another good option?
 
I'm going with Nitto Recon Grappler A/T 35" tires on my stock 20" Night Edition wheels. Will have tires tomorrow. Not jumping the gun here but getting prepared if my 2" Thuren Leveling kit doesn't help in allowing the tires to clear the radius arms. It appears some people barely rub at full lock and most do definitely on stock suspension setups and even caught a YouTube video of a guy with a 2" leveled truck and still hit radius arms with the Nittos. Bora recommends you have at least 7 thread turns on the oem lug when using their hub eccentric plate style spacer only (no lug threads on spacer) and of course using OEM studs. My question is if 1/4 inch spacer would be enough or if play safe and go with 3/8 spacer will I still be able to have enough threads on the studs for proper safe and secure wheel torque?

Only way to know if I need to go this route is get the leveling kit and tires installed and see. I can make the call then on which to get if required but thought I would get ahead of it. I too was trying to save some money and avoiding new wheels and only way I was getting new wheels was to get American Force Forged and didn't want to drop another $4k+ on that. Not right now after paying near $90k for the truck. The OEM Night Editions I can make look very good with these tires and replacement black lugs.

I have had 1.5" Bora spacers on my stock 20" wheel Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland for over 3 years and no complaints. These HD trucks are another story though and we are towing a travel trailer plus loaded weight in the bed so I don't feel right using the Bora threaded style spacers (and technically I don't need that kind of offset anyway. I just need nominally in case I get some rub on the radius arms with the 35's.

Let me know your thoughts.
 
I have 285-65-20 Cooper AT3 XLT [34.6] and have slight Rub on radius arms. If not replacing your sway bar it will rub also.
 
Whether it rubs the radius arm/sway bar or not has nothing to do with lift height. It's purely a function of the combination of 3 things: offset/backspace, actual tire size/design, and turning radius of the truck.
 
Catmechanic said:
Whether it rubs the radius arm/sway bar or not has nothing to do with lift height. It's purely a function of the combination of 3 things: offset/backspace, actual tire size/design, and turning radius of the truck.
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Not entirely true by lifting the suspension you are also changing the angle of the arms and sway bar which is usually enough to clear larger tires
 
Catmechanic said:
Whether it rubs the radius arm/sway bar or not has nothing to do with lift height. It's purely a function of the combination of 3 things: offset/backspace, actual tire size/design, and turning radius of the truck.
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Agreed. Depends on the wheel/tire setup though. Just things I have read. Tires could hit the front and rear lips of the wheel wells / plastic trims which a lift could fix that. Looks like the thin plate style Bora spacers will be a reality for me then but all depends if I really want to bother since will only slightly clip when at full lock. We will see I guess.
 
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