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Weight distribution hitch for 3500 with ram factory air

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Mrbarnum

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I have a 2022 3500 Mega cab SRW with Ram's factory air suspension

I use the bullet proof hitch at the moment. We just purchased a 36ft travel trailer. On the tow home I noticed a little bit of sway. This was going over a bridge, rough asphalt, and irregular traffic lane.

The trailer is 7700lbs dry and have has 900lb hitch weight also dry. Should I move to get a weight distribution with anti sway? Could I just add the bulletproof anti sway system? The truck and trailer are level after the factory air ride adjusts.

Recommendations for a WDH that either works with the bullet proof hitches or fits the 2.5" reciever
PXL_20230310_195651193.jpg
 
I would definitely recommend having a weight distribution hitch with anti sway for your setup. I used the Equalizer brand with my trailers. They were 21 and 24 feet, towed with that hitch more than 10 years. You can get a shank to fit the 2.5 receiver as well, and there are different drop lengths available. There are other good brands out there and I’m sure others will chime in, but without a doubt move to a weight distribution anti sway setup for your new trailer.

Also, welcome aboard!
 
Air bags tend to take weight off the steer axle when the load is rear of the axle.

You need to either scale or at least measure the front truck fender height before/after hooking up the trailer. IMHO, if the front is lighter/riding more than 3/8" higher, you need to use WD. A combo WD/sway system will reduce the sway as well.
 
You should not ever need anti-sway with a properly loaded and built trailer…Que the anti-sway lovers and kool-aid drinkers.

The leading cause of sway is insufficient tongue weight. With proper tongue weigh trailers do not sway, period.

With the auto level system it takes a little more work to ensure your WDH is setup properly.
Brutal_HO said:
Air bags tend to take weight off the steer axle when the load is rear of the axle.
Click to expand...

Common misconception, but false. There isn’t even any physics behind the misconception.

Now with a WDH if you use aftermarket airbags to raise the rear to a height that is higher than when you set the hitch up you can reduced the weight transfer. The key to using airbags (OEM or aftermarket) with a WDH is to ensure that the airbags don’t raise the rear any higher than where you have the WDH setup. I use the analogy that WDH is for tongue weight and airbags are for bed payload, which really only applies to folks with aftermarket bags. As long as the angle on the WDH bars remains the same then the weight transfer remains the same.
 
Mrbarnum said:
I have a 2022 3500 Mega cab SRW with Ram's factory air suspension

I use the bullet proof hitch at the moment. We just purchased a 36ft travel trailer. On the tow home I noticed a little bit of sway. This was going over a bridge, rough asphalt, and irregular traffic lane.

The trailer is 7700lbs dry and have has 900lb hitch weight also dry. Should I move to get a weight distribution with anti sway? Could I just add the bulletproof anti sway system? The truck and trailer are level after the factory air ride adjusts.

Recommendations for a WDH that either works with the bullet proof hitches or fits the 2.5" reciever
View attachment 53139
Click to expand...

7a0d918b2b24c95a61442643755e401d.jpg

5a450a779bb73ebbb5a3e9679701e270.jpg

I was using a Bulletproof setup combined with Fastway E2 WD on our TT. Worked great. The bars are 1k tongue weight and 10k trailer weight. Bulletproof sells a WD adapter for their hitch setup if you find a system you like. Or you can buy mine! Going 5er and no longer need it.
e2654aa6f80983500abd591e1c1c4a58.jpg

An added bonus and the main reason I went with that whole setup was I could open my tailgate completely with the TT connected. No more jack interference.


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AH64ID said:
You should not ever need anti-sway with a properly loaded and built trailer…Que the anti-sway lovers and kool-aid drinkers.

The leading cause of sway is insufficient tongue weight. With proper tongue weigh trailers do not sway, period.

With the auto level system it takes a little more work to ensure your WDH is setup properly.


Common misconception, but false. There isn’t even any physics behind the misconception.

Now with a WDH if you use aftermarket airbags to raise the rear to a height that is higher than when you set the hitch up you can reduced the weight transfer. The key to using airbags (OEM or aftermarket) with a WDH is to ensure that the airbags don’t raise the rear any higher than where you have the WDH setup. I use the analogy that WDH is for tongue weight and airbags are for bed payload, which really only applies to folks with aftermarket bags. As long as the angle on the WDH bars remains the same then the weight transfer remains the same.
Click to expand...

I couldn't disagree more.

Air in the bags adds to the rigidity of the rear suspension and will cause the steer axle to unload more during travel.
 
Brutal_HO said:
I couldn't disagree more.

Air in the bags adds to the rigidity of the rear suspension and will cause the steer axle to unload more during travel.
Click to expand...

Also generally wrong, if anything I’ve found the exact opposite to be true about unloading the front. Yes it makes it more rigid, but that’s not a bad thing.

Properly inflated airbags improve steering over the stock suspension, it’s night and day.

Unloading of the front axle is based on the lever of the weight, in a static situation.

Dynamically the lack of extreme movement of the rear suspension keeps the front more stable, with properly inflated bags.

Many people overinflate their bags, which can cause issues depending on the situation… but that’s not the airbags fault, that’s just operator error.

At the end of the day the best ride, handling, and lowest driver fatigue can be had with airbags (OEM or aftermarket) and a WDH. The aftermarket airbag users just have to be more careful with inflation pressure.
 
Last edited:
firemansdiesel said:
Air bags do very little to add weight to the front steering axle with bumper pull tongue weight.
Click to expand...

Or remove it, they aren’t about weight transfer they are about stability which leads to ride, handing, and driver fatigue.

There just isn’t any physical way they can appreciably add or remove weight within their range of travel.
 
We can agree to disagree about bags. I am putting Timber Groves on my 2500 for stability pulling the 5er.

Back to the OP. Buy my setup!


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CharlieL said:
I would definitely recommend having a weight distribution hitch with anti sway for your setup. I used the Equalizer brand with my trailers. They were 21 and 24 feet, towed with that hitch more than 10 years. You can get a shank to fit the 2.5 receiver as well, and there are different drop lengths available. There are other good brands out there and I’m sure others will chime in, but without a doubt move to a weight distribution anti sway setup for your new trailer.

Also, welcome aboard!
Click to expand...
I too use the Equalizer brand with my 35' bumper pull, and it is rock solid stable, even in high winds
 
I would even sell the WD portion and keep the hitch and flip ball! Lots of plugs for me.


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Firebird said:
I too use the Equalizer brand with my 35' bumper pull, and it is rock solid stable, even in high winds
Click to expand...

It’s my preferred WDH. The anti-sway is immaterial, but I like the design for lots of back roads miles and abuse. I’m not a fan of chain style WDH’s.
 
AH64ID said:
It’s my preferred WDH. The anti-sway is immaterial, but I like the design for lots of back roads miles and abuse. I’m not a fan of chain style WDH’s.
Click to expand...
It is a great sturdy hitch!
 
When traffic gets too bad, I just clear a path!!!!! We stopped at the USS Alabama to tour the ship. Kids had a great time. We were returning to south Texas from Destin Fl on spring break trip.
 
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