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Trying to make the cab over lights remote compatible with the factory ram aux switches

Vpolio90

Vpolio90

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I ordered a 2022 ram mega 3500 and unfortunately I did not order cab lights when I had the chance. When I tried to make a order chance a $95 dollar option turned into a $2000 dollar option due to ram spiking up prices the 3 days after I ordered mine. So now I'm considering cab over america solar lights. The cab lights are controlled by a remote , however, instead of using the remote I would like to use the factory aux switches. I was looking to see if anyone has experience doing this or have recommendations or a list of components I would need to make this work. Thanks!
 

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Looks like they are only able to be controlled by the 2 included key fobs. Would probably have to take one of those apart and figure out a way to wire that for activation through one of the Aux switches.
 
Darmichar said:
Looks like they are only able to be controlled by the 2 included key fobs. Would probably have to take one of those apart and figure out a way to wire that for activation through one of the Aux switches.
Click to expand...
It's signal based. 433Mhz carrier with embedded data. My guy has the wireless signal duplicated, just working on the 12V trigger.

Film at 11 .....
 
Cautiously optimistic.
 
My electronics guy underestimated the complexity of the project.

Working on another angle ..... To be continued.
 
OuterUB said:
My electronics guy underestimated the complexity of the project.

Working on another angle ..... To be continued.
Click to expand...
10-4! Thank you for the update. Do you think utilizing the auxiliary switch would be alot easier?

I figured the day time running lights and night time running lights would cause a problem with trying to have them turn on automatically. Is this the case?
 
Vpolio90 said:
10-4! Thank you for the update. Do you think utilizing the auxiliary switch would be alot easier?

I figured the day time running lights and night time running lights would cause a problem with trying to have them turn on automatically. Is this the case?
Click to expand...
No.

The power source or choice of switches is the EASY part. The problem is the data signal embedded in the 433MHz carrier signal. There are plenty of devices out there that will transmit whatever signal you want .... as long as you know WHAT that signal looks like. He thought that capturing it with his learning remotes was all he needed. Turns out that he can't pull the data off of the device, just repeat it. Meaning he simply cloned the original remote.

So, I'll keep working on this .... in the meantime I'll be manually turning on my lights via the supplied remote.
 
Still working on this.

The manufacturer says they have the design patented so I'm trying to get them to build me a module for "testing" purposes ....

Stay tuned. :)
 
OuterUB said:
It's signal based. 433Mhz carrier with embedded data. My guy has the wireless signal duplicated, just working on the 12V trigger.

Film at 11 .....
Click to expand...
Just getting back to this, I missed this reply. I understand how it works.
I assume the remotes have a physical button that needs pressed to activate the lights. I would sacrifice one of the remotes and figure out a way to wire the contact points of the physical switch or the battery connection of the remote into one of the Aux switches and hide the transmitter part somewhere in the dash.
 
Darmichar said:
Just getting back to this, I missed this reply. I understand how it works.
I assume the remotes have a physical button that needs pressed to activate the lights. I would sacrifice one of the remotes and figure out a way to wire the contact points of the physical switch or the battery connection of the remote into one of the Aux switches and hide the transmitter part somewhere in the dash.
Click to expand...
That's an interesting approach. Close across the switch via a relay that's triggered by the 12 signal would work as well .....
 
Yeah, that's what I was thinking when I originally posted. Either close the 'switch' using the Aux input or use a buck convertor to cut the 12V feed from the Aux input to whatever voltage the battery in the remote is, solder the 'switch' closed and trigger it that way.
 
Darmichar said:
Yeah, that's what I was thinking when I originally posted. Either close the 'switch' using the Aux input or use a buck convertor to cut the 12V feed from the Aux input to whatever voltage the battery in the remote is, solder the 'switch' closed and trigger it that way.
Click to expand...
Niiiiice.... :cool:
 
Looks like we're on our own. Manufacturer wil neither build me a working prototype (sold as-is) nor share any design details.
 
OuterUB said:
Looks like we're on our own. Manufacturer wil neither build me a working prototype (sold as-is) nor share any design details.
Click to expand...
Yea I figured, when i asked if they could help me out with the auxiliary route I got the same response.
 
So, I have two remotes. I'd be willing to do a little bit of micro-circuitry work though I've never done anything like that before ....
 
OuterUB said:
So, I have two remotes. I'd be willing to do a little bit of micro-circuitry work though I've never done anything like that before ....
Click to expand...
Without seeing the circuit board, I'm guessing here. Usually the 'pad' that the switch activates is just that, a pad of traces that the switch contacts and 'closes' the circuit.
If you wanted to go that route, a small blob of solder on the pad would close the circuit, then it should be able to be triggered any time the appropriate battery voltage was applied to the battery terminals.
This is also assuming there is just one button that cycles the lights on/off. More buttons for various things would complicate it greatly.
 
Darmichar said:
Without seeing the circuit board, I'm guessing here. Usually the 'pad' that the switch activates is just that, a pad of traces that the switch contacts and 'closes' the circuit.
If you wanted to go that route, a small blob of solder on the pad would close the circuit, then it should be able to be triggered any time the appropriate battery voltage was applied to the battery terminals.
This is also assuming there is just one button that cycles the lights on/off. More buttons for various things would complicate it greatly.
Click to expand...
Separate on and off buttons....
 
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