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Tradesman Aux PDC without upfitter package adding power to bed and trailer

Bgirup

Bgirup

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I would like to add wiring to charge my trailer battery(trailer has dcdc 30amp charger) and power a 12v fridge in the bed of the truck. I also have an aux lipo battery for the fridge that I might like to install but not sure it is necessary with the 2 huge batteries under the hood? I do not have the upfitter switches but do have Aux PDC. What would be the smartest/cleanest way to make this happen.

At first glance, I was thinking of running 1/0guage power from the driver battery to the rear bumper area into a fused distribution block and then come from that fuse block to an Andersen for the trailer and run some 8 guage to a blue seas power outlet to be installed in the bed. I believe this would give me future expansion options.

Any recommendations from you who have already done something like this?
 
There is a HAPP (high amperage power point) on the drivers side battery. It’s rated to 300A and would be the best option.

You can use the chassis for a ground. There are several points rated to 50A.

1/0 is probably more than you need to run. Have you found out the max amps both things will draw?

The additional battery would only be needed if you were running the fridge or DC-DC charger with the engine off. With the engine running the alternator supplies all the power, not the batteries.
 
AH64ID said:
There is a HAPP (high amperage power point) on the drivers side battery. It’s rated to 300A and would be the best option.

You can use the chassis for a ground. There are several points rated to 50A.

1/0 is probably more than you need to run. Have you found out the max amps both things will draw?

The additional battery would only be needed if you were running the fridge or DC-DC charger with the engine off. With the engine running the alternator supplies all the power, not the batteries.
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Presently 35 amps would cover my needs. The fridge does run while we are at camp. It is a very low draw and has built in battery protection. However, I like to camp remotely for days at a time and insurance is probably best.

What size wire would you use for the main? I was trying to do a little future proofing in case I ever install a bed camper but 1/0 may be overkill entirely.
 
Bgirup said:
Presently 35 amps would cover my needs. The fridge does run while we are at camp. It is a very low draw and has built in battery protection. However, I like to camp remotely for days at a time and insurance is probably best.

What size wire would you use for the main? I was trying to do a little future proofing in case I ever install a bed camper but 1/0 may be overkill entirely.
Click to expand...

The 30A DC-DC needs a 60A supply, so your 35A math is off.

What does the fridge need for fuse protection?
 
AH64ID said:
The 30A DC-DC needs a 60A supply, so your 35A math is off.

What does the fridge need for fuse protection?
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You are right. Victron shows 60amp fuse requirement and 16mm cable requirement which translates to 6awg. The fridge wiring kit has a 15amp fuse. I was way off. 75 amps just for those plus any future capacity needs.
 
A 1AWG wire will support 100A on a 20’ one-way run with only a 5% drop. Since the max continuous amperage for the DC-DC and fridge shouldn’t exceed 52.5A your max voltage drop would be 3% and very acceptable.
 
AH64ID said:
A 1AWG wire will support 100A on a 20’ one-way run with only a 5% drop. Since the max continuous amperage for the DC-DC and fridge shouldn’t exceed 52.5A your max voltage drop would be 3% and very acceptable.
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Thanks! Picked up the wire and ordered some lugs to get the project on the way.
Have you seen any clean installs for the electrical system in the bed? The dcdc needs to stay somewhat dry and protected but also produces a lot of heat so needs ventilation. I could install it under the hood but I haven’t noticed a great area for it yet. Under hood is probably best for the dcdc.
 
Bgirup said:
Thanks! Picked up the wire and ordered some lugs to get the project on the way.
Have you seen any clean installs for the electrical system in the bed? The dcdc needs to stay somewhat dry and protected but also produces a lot of heat so needs ventilation. I could install it under the hood but I haven’t noticed a great area for it yet. Under hood is probably best for the dcdc.
Click to expand...

The DC-DC needs to be as close to the batteries it is charging as possible otherwise you get the same voltage drop that you would have gotten without it and negate its existence.

When I do a DC-DC in my 5th wheel it will go within 2’ of the batteries.
 
I have a Renogy 60A DC-DC in my travel trailer, fed by a 2AWG run (to an Anderson plug at the bumper) from the HAPP mentioned above, and grounded directly to the “Intelligent Battery Sensor”. I used 2AWG as the total run from battery to DC-DC is nearly 30’.

Also as mentioned above, you want the DC-DC as close to the battery being charged as possible.
 
jsalbre said:
I have a Renogy 60A DC-DC in my travel trailer, fed by a 2AWG run (to an Anderson plug at the bumper) from the HAPP mentioned above, and grounded directly to the “Intelligent Battery Sensor”. I used 2AWG as the total run from battery to DC-DC is nearly 30’.

Also as mentioned above, you want the DC-DC as close to the battery being charged as possible.
Click to expand...

The nice thing about a dedicated wire for a DC-DC charger is that they run fine with a voltage drop that is unacceptable for most DC users.
 
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