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Power Wagon on 37s with OE spare tire - really a problem?

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Trying to figure out how to solve for the spare tire issue on the Power Wagon - issue being a full size spare (37) won’t fit, and I’m struggling to get a 35 in the factory 33 spot (Only 34” of clearance between hitch and track bar)

It got me thinking, is the 33” factory spare really a problem on the Power Wagon? With locking front and rear diffs, if you run the truck in 2WD without the diffs locked, it would seem to be ok for a short time (diffs would be open). It might disable the traction control, but mechanically it would seem like this would be fine in an emergency.

So, what does this group think? Is this a non-issue on the PW.

I can definitely see how this would be a problem with the limited-slip diffs in the other trucks, but I’m not sure it’s a real problem on the PW.

Note - Obviously the preference is a full-size spare. But where I live, security is also a problem so a vertical mount spare tire will not work with a tonneau cover (and a bed cap limits the ability to get tall things into the bed). My truck is still used as a truck, so laying the 37 flat in the bed consumes too much space.
 
Not a huge issue if you are attempting to get off a trail or limp to the nearest service station. As stated, I would think that open diff running is MUCH better than lockers/posi based gearing.

Running 37's come at the cost of weight, size/clearance, spare tire risk. Bed mounts or tailgate mounts increase the cost of running 37's but will lower the risk of not having a spare. I wish it wasn't true since I have 37's sitting in my garage ready to install, but this is really a "pay to play" scenario. Paying in weight/mpg/space not just in cost of the tire.
 
jadmt said:
You would be ok up front but remember rear has limited slip along with the locker. So if you get a rear flat you need to move a front tire to the back and run the spare up front.
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Really? I was not aware it had both a limited slip as well as a locker. But yeah, if that’s the case then you’d have to move it to the front.
 
I was thinking this yesterday as I read your post. What is the actual difference in size? 33 to 37 is only 2" difference in radius. Add the fact the tires aren't exact and run small. And then add the compression of the tire from the weight of the truck I would assume the difference is well under 2". I think it would be like limping with one flat tire. Which I did many times on my old Durango without even knowing.

With 35s I would think the difference is negligible.

But I admit having no first hand experience.
 
jadmt said:
You would be ok up front but remember rear has limited slip along with the locker. So if you get a rear flat you need to move a front tire to the back and run the spare up front.
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Thanks so much this is a big help. I did check out AAM's website because I couldn't find anything on my '19 about the TracRite GT Helical Gear Limited Slip Differential that was on PWs '14-'18 and it looks like the rear limited slip ended in 2018 https://www.demandaam.com/product-catalog/axle/differential-cases-traction-enhancing
 
@KevinValenta thanks for sharing that link -- first I had heard of that on 2019+ trucks.... that seems like a big change / omission if true!

Can anyone else weigh in?
 
Would be nice but how do you know? The window sticker for my 2019 PW doesn't show it and neither does the manufacture of the limited slip. Thanks.
 
Didn't read the whole thread so sorry if it has been mentioned, but if it were me, I'd either put a full size spare in place of the stock and let most of the air out so it can crumple down to fit. Or I would keep the stock spare for most driving, but throw a full size in the bed for trips and off road. Or, another thought I just had, get some patch plugs, slime, and air compressor and try to repair any flats.
 
cbrenthus said:
Didn't read the whole thread so sorry if it has been mentioned, but if it were me, I'd either put a full size spare in place of the stock and let most of the air out so it can crumple down to fit. Or I would keep the stock spare for most driving, but throw a full size in the bed for trips and off road. Or, another thought I just had, get some patch plugs, slime, and air compressor and try to repair any flats.
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You can fit a 35 this way, but no way a 37 fitting in the stock location. The sidewalls on truck tires don’t “crumple” like a bicycle tire. You get a bit of give / reduced diameter when it’s deflated, but it’s still a bit of a fight getting a 35 up there.

A plug kit is great to have, but sidewall blowouts/major cuts, or valve stem failure… a plug kit isn’t going to work.

A company called Colby sells emergency repair valve stems which are neat quick repair though for a cut valve stem without having to remove the wheel or tire.
 
It’s a 5% difference in tire size 36->37 You can see a 5% difference in 37”s from different brands. You guys act like 37s are this huge jump. It’s basically one size up from 35s
 
el_barto said:
You can fit a 35 this way, but no way a 37 fitting in the stock location. The sidewalls on truck tires don’t “crumple” like a bicycle tire. You get a bit of give / reduced diameter when it’s deflated, but it’s still a bit of a fight getting a 35 up there.

A plug kit is great to have, but sidewall blowouts/major cuts, or valve stem failure… a plug kit isn’t going to work.

A company called Colby sells emergency repair valve stems which are neat quick repair though for a cut valve stem without having to remove the wheel or tire.
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Thank you on another note! I have a '93 CBR900RR that hasn't run in over 20 years, but I just can't bear to get rid of it. However, the tires are flat, and I cannot for the life of me get the caps off because they are anodized aluminum caps that cover the whole stem, and the stems are turning. But, maybe I can cut them out and then use the emergency stems to get some air in there for pushing it around!
 
GlueTread, and probably others make a sidewall repair kit specifically for large gashes in a sidewall so that you can get off the trail.
 
Iowagon said:
I was thinking this yesterday as I read your post. What is the actual difference in size? 33 to 37 is only 2" difference in radius. Add the fact the tires aren't exact and run small. And then add the compression of the tire from the weight of the truck I would assume the difference is well under 2". I think it would be like limping with one flat tire. Which I did many times on my old Durango without even knowing.

With 35s I would think the difference is negligible.

But I admit having no first hand experience.
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you're thinking radius and not circumference. 37" has about 10% more circumference than the 33", which is where you will get into trouble. The 37" is covering more ground with every revolution
 
KevinValenta said:
Would be nice but how do you know? The window sticker for my 2019 PW doesn't show it and neither does the manufacture of the limited slip. Thanks.
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As far as I know, they've always had a modified Torsen type LS . I know the 07 does but I can't remember if they had them when they came out in 05
 
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