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Oil, Fuel filters and air filter changes

baker01

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Oil, Fuel filters and air filter changes. This my help those of you on the fence of doing yourselves.

I am at 7590 miles and a week short of one year since I bought my 2022 3500. The owner’s manual calls for 15000 miles or one year which ever comes first. First up was my oil change. I did not have the right size strap wrench so I purchased this one along with a filter plug off of Amazon.
1686423675930.png

The filter came off easily with no issues. I should have put an old shop towel down below the filter because it made a small mess. I will know better next time. I inserted the filter plug into the oil filter and the turned the filter sideways to remove from the truck. The filter plug or a zip lock bag is a must if you do not want oil everywhere. I prefer the plug; I can prefill the new filter and then install without spillage. It took a few attempts to get the new one screwed back on. There is not a lot of room for your hands and the filter need to be oriented spot on. Overall, a pretty easy job.

Next up was the air filter. One of the other threads on here discusses which air filter part number should be used on the 2019 on up trucks with the Cummins. The factory filter was an 53034051AB and that is what went back in it.

1686423759885.png

The filter replacement was easy. I disconnected the hose from the filter lid, unscrewed the screws replaced the filter the installed screws and hose.

Next Item Chassis fuel filter. I read a lot of posts that talked about the filter being a messy job with diesel spilling everywhere. I took a few different ideas from different people and did my own version. I had no spillage. I used a 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD clear tube to do the initial drain of the housing. I then used a 28mm 6 point socket to loosen the lid. If a 12 point socket is used you will most likely damage the canister lids! Once loose enough to turn by hand, I placed a cheap Wally World pitcher under the lid and unscrewed it by hand and the lid and filter drop into the pitcher along with the excess fuel.

1686423832220.png

Last up was the engine bay fuel filter. My 2006 Ram was so much easier. I used the same 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD clear tube to drain the filter housing. The tube fit inside of the factory drain tube and acted as a extension into my drain pan. I turned the yellow ¼ turn drain valve and waited a while prior to loosening the lid. I loosened the lid with the 28mm socked and fuel spilled everywhere. It seems there was a vacuum and the initial drain did not let much out of the housing. Lesson learned here, leave the drain valve open and the crack the lid open. To remove the old filter, I dropped it down to the ground. The new one was threaded through from the front of the engine.

1686423895052.png


1686423924517.png

1686423942696.png

The whole process took about three hours. Not too difficult, cheaper than the dealer and I know there were no shortcuts taken.
 
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Job well done, keep records in case any warranty issues arise. I keep box tops of the filters and the receipt from the oil. Date it with hours and miles, that should be sufficient. Oh, and don’t forget to reset the fuel and oil change reminders in the evic.
 
Job well done, keep records in case any warranty issues arise. I keep box tops of the filters and the receipt from the oil. Date it with hours and miles, that should be sufficient. Oh, and don’t forget to reset the fuel and oil change reminders in the evic.
I keep all receipts, take pictures and document in my own maintenance record.
 
On the oil filter I just have the zip lock ready and I let it drip into the bag for a while before I fully drop the filter and zip it shut. Easiest way to avoid a mess even with the handle tool thing for the filter.

Also seeing how black your chassis filter is you should try to avoid running your tank down past 1/2 a tank where you can avoid it. The HPCR fuel system really heats up the fuel causing asphaltenes which can be partially mitigated by keeping the tank fuller and as well as treating your fuel.
 
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This post is most helpful. I'll add my 2c. If you order your filters online from some place like Geno's, go ahead and include the 28mm 6 pt socket in the order. I could not find one locally, lowes, home depot, autozone o'riellies, harbor frieght ... none to be found.
 
One thing I've figured out on the oil filter, I can stick my middle finger in the center hole up to the 2nd knuckle and it fits close enough that I can tip the filter and pull it out through the wheel well with very minimal spillage. Might help those that don't have the filter plug or don't have bags handy and have the correct size fingers like me:)
 
For those that don’t know, you don’t want to prefill an oil filter thru the center hold. If you choose to prefill the oil filter and you fill the center hole you are sending unfiltered oil thru the engine at startup. Having seen virgin oil analysis for contamination, I don’t recommend sending that thru your bearings.

On the 13+ pickups I have found the filter plug as the best method for filter retrieval. I also don’t remove the filter from the truck for a few hours after I shut it down, it makes for no mess on removal from the block.
 
On the oil filter I just have the zip lock ready and I let it drip into the bag for a while before I fully drop the filter and zip it shut. Easiest way to avoid a mess even with the handle tool thing for the filter.

Also seeing how black your chassis filter is you should try to avoid running your tank down past 1/2 a tank where you can avoid it. The HPCR fuel system really heats up the fuel causing asphaltenes which can be partially mitigated by keeping the tank fuller and as well as treating your fuel.
50 gallon tank, I always fill it at a quarter tank and it takes about 15 gallons.
 
Also seeing how black your chassis filter is you should try to avoid running your tank down past 1/2 a tank where you can avoid it. The HPCR fuel system really heats up the fuel causing asphaltenes which can be partially mitigated by keeping the tank fuller and as well as treating your fuel.
The filter is catching it all no need to worry about it. Fill the tank when the light comes on or close to it and carry on thats how i have always done it and at 15k miles on my filter its not as black as his.
 
The filter is catching it all no need to worry about it. Fill the tank when the light comes on or close to it and carry on thats how i have always done it and at 15k miles on my filter its not as black as his.

Agree, I’ve never subscribed to the fill at 1/2 tank folklore BS. I routinely fill my tank when the light comes on, and always have on my HPCR trucks, and have never had a asphaltenes issue with my filters.
 
Agree, I’ve never subscribed to the fill at 1/2 tank folklore BS. I routinely fill my tank when the light comes on, and always have on my HPCR trucks, and have never had a asphaltenes issue with my filters.
In the winter i try to keep it over 1/4 tank only so when i remote start it the Low fuel light does not kick the remote start out lol
 
In the winter i try to keep it over 1/4 tank only so when i remote start it the Low fuel light does not kick the remote start out lol
Absolutely, there are certainly some valid reasons for filling the tank before needed… I just don’t subscribe to it being better for the fuel or fuel system.
 
Job well done, keep records in case any warranty issues arise. I keep box tops of the filters and the receipt from the oil. Date it with hours and miles, that should be sufficient. Oh, and don’t forget to reset the fuel and oil change reminders in the evic.
Thinking about doing own service, the problem is the cost of filters from dealer. I found a place that claims to sell Mopar filters as well as Cummins brand. I’m wondering if place is legit it’s called KLM PERFORMANCE out of Conneticutt. Any suggestions ?
 
Name seems familiar and they have a presence on Linked In, Facebook, and several boards going back many years.
 
Dealers are proud of their filters. I ordered from Genos Garage and had them within the week. The filters available from them are Mopar or Fleetguard and the real deal.
 
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Thinking about doing own service, the problem is the cost of filters from dealer. I found a place that claims to sell Mopar filters as well as Cummins brand. I’m wondering if place is legit it’s called KLM PERFORMANCE out of Conneticutt. Any suggestions ?
Klm is a reputable shop. Guy operates out of his house. Met him once, about 12 years ago.
 
Oil, Fuel filters and air filter changes. This my help those of you on the fence of doing yourselves.

I am at 7590 miles and a week short of one year since I bought my 2022 3500. The owner’s manual calls for 15000 miles or one year which ever comes first. First up was my oil change. I did not have the right size strap wrench so I purchased this one along with a filter plug off of Amazon.
View attachment 58231

The filter came off easily with no issues. I should have put an old shop towel down below the filter because it made a small mess. I will know better next time. I inserted the filter plug into the oil filter and the turned the filter sideways to remove from the truck. The filter plug or a zip lock bag is a must if you do not want oil everywhere. I prefer the plug; I can prefill the new filter and then install without spillage. It took a few attempts to get the new one screwed back on. There is not a lot of room for your hands and the filter need to be oriented spot on. Overall, a pretty easy job.

Next up was the air filter. One of the other threads on here discusses which air filter part number should be used on the 2019 on up trucks with the Cummins. The factory filter was an 53034051AB and that is what went back in it.

View attachment 58232

The filter replacement was easy. I disconnected the hose from the filter lid, unscrewed the screws replaced the filter the installed screws and hose.

Next Item Chassis fuel filter. I read a lot of posts that talked about the filter being a messy job with diesel spilling everywhere. I took a few different ideas from different people and did my own version. I had no spillage. I used a 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD clear tube to do the initial drain of the housing. I then used a 28mm socket to loosen the lid. Once loose enough to turn by hand, I placed a cheap Wally World pitcher under the lid and unscrewed it by hand and the lid and filter drop into the pitcher along with the excess fuel.

View attachment 58233

Last up was the engine bay fuel filter. My 2006 Ram was so much easier. I used the same 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD clear tube to drain the filter housing. The tube fit inside of the factory drain tube and acted as a extension into my drain pan. I turned the yellow ¼ turn drain valve and waited a while prior to loosening the lid. I loosened the lid with the 28mm socked and fuel spilled everywhere. It seems there was a vacuum and the initial drain did not let much out of the housing. Lesson learned here, leave the drain valve open and the crack the lid open. To remove the old filter, I dropped it down to the ground. The new one was threaded through from the front of the engine.

View attachment 58234


View attachment 58235

View attachment 58236

The whole process took about three hours. Not too difficult, cheaper than the dealer and I know there were no shortcuts taken.

Glad to know i'm not the only one that took more than 2 hours to do this. I actually stopped around 2 hour mark because the 12 point 28mm socket I was using for the fuel filters seemed like it was stripping the filter cap - so I'll do the fuel filters this weekend with a 6 point 28mm socket. Question though, for the engine bay fuel filter, I'm using a 10" extension with a swivel extension - I'm assuming w/ the 6 point socket, it'll catch better and should loosen...but just curious if there's any other trick(s) I'm missing for that one?
 
Glad to know i'm not the only one that took more than 2 hours to do this. I actually stopped around 2 hour mark because the 12 point 28mm socket I was using for the fuel filters seemed like it was stripping the filter cap - so I'll do the fuel filters this weekend with a 6 point 28mm socket. Question though, for the engine bay fuel filter, I'm using a 10" extension with a swivel extension - I'm assuming w/ the 6 point socket, it'll catch better and should loosen...but just curious if there's any other trick(s) I'm missing for that one?
I use a 10" and 3" extension with a swivel and the 6pt socket and it comes off without issue every time.
 
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