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OEM Bed Light Kit Install Problem-Need Help Diagnosing

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coyle1367

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First time posting. Fantastic information and expertise on the site. I visit often.

My 2024 2500 Laramie didn't have the bed lights installed from the factory, so I decided to install the Mopar/OEM kit myself. Install went fine, but I can't get the lights to turn on when the in-cab cargo lamp is switched on, the bed switch is pressed or when the tailgate opens. The third brake cargo light can be switched off with the bed switch, but that is it.

Per the instructions, I tied off the short tan/white wire, attached the green/white wire to pin 16 of the under dash C7(G) connector and the long tan/white wire to C3 pin 17 connector under the hood. There was already a tan/white wire installed, which I pulled and taped off.

Using Vlinker+ and a security bypass cable that Florotory built for me, I activated both "Bed Light Switch Input Present" (BCM Pin G16) and "Bed Lighting Present" (BCM Pin A5) in Adaptation Settings (Run position). After the change, I shut off the ignition, locked the doors, made sure the key fobs were far away from the truck and waited 10 minutes. Under the "Trace and Restore Adaptations" section, I can see the both the changes as "active". But, no lights in the bed.

Since JScan lists the Bed Lighting Present connection as BCM Pin A5, I decided to try inserting the tan/white wire into Pin 5 of the C1 (A) connector under the dash and the lights came on when the engine was running and shut off when the engine was off, but otherwise that was it. So I know the problem isn't with defective lights or the wiring/connections from bed. I also switched the adaptations on and off a few times, using the same process as before. Still no lights.

I assume the Bed Light Switch (Pin G16) connection is working, since it turns off the third brake light cargo lamp. So, the problem must be with the C3 Pin 17 connection under the hood.

Infotainment has an install video on YouTube which has some good information (I didn't use thier kit, just watched the video) They didn't connect the long tan wire and instead plugged the short tan/white wire into Pin 5 of the C6 (F) connector. I guess it worked for them, but I haven't tried it since getting to the C6 connector is a huge pain the ass.

Any suggestions on how I go about diagnosing the issue?

Thanks much,
 
Seem I remember something about the pinout being incorrect. I ran across that info on 5thgenram forum a couple years ago.
 
I remember seeing something about that too. But I haven’t been able to find it again. I am going to try replacing the pin out and wire and see if it is an issue with the connection. I will also test the security bypass cable, but it worked fine a few weeks ago when I lowered the TPMS. I also need to figure out how to test JScan to see if the adaptations are actually changing on the BCM.
Does anyone know if there is another pin on the BCM that I could use to instead of C17? Thanks.
 
I suspect the problem is the wire you pulled and taped off. On my install all the connectors were already populated so I used the Posi Taps recommended by Infotainment. I followed the instruction sheet for the under hood connections and the Infotainment instructions on the BCM. Removing the kick panel above the parking brake was a life saver. I also stole a very long, rather large diameter knitting needle from my wife which made it possible for me to push the connector back in and hold it while I manipulated the locking lever. It was a serious pain working under the dash - I'm 6'4", old and don't bend easily - but I got it done and everything worked as advertised.
Just rewatched the Infotainment video and find it hard to believe I did all that and definitely would not do it again!

Edit: Just noticed you asked about C17. I believe you are supposed to be connecting to C16.
 
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Last night, I put the original tan/white wire back and Posi-tapped it with the tan/white wire on the bed light harness. Inactivated the bed light switch and bed light present adaptations via JScan and let sit for 10 minutes. Then activated both and let sit again.
Still nothing. I am at a loss.
The security bypass cable is working properly. The bed light fuse is installed and intact. All the harnesses to the lights and switch are tight and correct.
Maybe JScan is not working? I think they just did an IOS update.
I would really just like to know how I can go about testing the connections to make sure the install is correct.
I have zero knowledge of how to test BCM connections and what I should look for.
Any advice?
 
Ok, a couple things.
I connected both wires under the dash. They are bundled together and the same length as per the Infotainment instruction. I also spliced the long tan/white wire under the hood as per the paper instructions. I didn't cut any wires - I believe you said you cut the wire under the hood and connected to it.

Edit: I used AlfaOBD and made these changes:
Car configuration change: Bed Light Switch Input Present - Pin G16: ' NO ' -> ' YES '
Car configuration change: Bed Lighting Present - Pin D6: ' NO ' -> ' YES '
 
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The instructions that came with the OEM kit said to use the long tan/white wire in the engine bay and to not use the short tan/white wire in the cab (which is the same length as the green/purple wire). I connected the green/purple connection under the dash and the long tan/white wire at the fuse panel next to the battery.

I guess I could try it the infotainment way and connect the short tan/white wire under the dash and not use the long tan/white wire under the hood.

I may also try AlfaOBD and see if that works.
I completely wired my old Scout with a painless harness and that was less frustrating than this! It is such a straightforward install and It is driving me crazy. I just need to get a better understanding of how CAN BUS wiring works and a wiring schematic so I can figure this out.
 
Understood. The two do not agree and it seems like they should. Infotainment said they hooked the long wire up under the hood but it didn't make any difference. I figured if it didn't make any difference it couldn't hurt, either.
All I know is I hooked up all three wires plus the ground, didn't cut anything, and my lights work and I don't have to crawl back under there again. I even left my KaodTech bypass cable installed in case I want to make future changes but don't want to mess around under that dash.
 
Stop the presses!
I went down to my truck just to check and found that I did, in fact, terminate the brown/white wire and did not connect it to anything. Only the green/white wire is connected under the dash and the other wire is connected under the hood.
Very sorry about that. I can't trust my memory for squat any more.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I haven’t climbed under the dash yet. One question for you. The C3 connection under the hood- is it the lower left harness that is black in color?
 
Yes, when you flip the PDC up and away from you the connector is on the lower left. Also, make sure you are counting your pin slots from the wire side of the connector. Pin 21 is on the top right, so Pin 17 is four holes to the left from there.
 
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I found out the issue is JScan!
It would not activate Bed Light Present in adaptations. It lists BCM Pin A5 (same as the Ram 1500) as needing to be activated, but it is BCM Pin D6 which needs to be activated.
I bought an AlfaOBD license and it activated BCM Pin D6 and the lights work normally.
I tried to post a question about this in the JScan Lovers Facebook page and they deleted my post! I guess it was because I mentioned AlfaOBD??
Anyway, JScan worked fine when I adjusted the TPMS and adjusted the speedometer in the Fall.
But, it doesn't work to activate the Bed Cargo Lights.
Just an FYI.
 
Thanks for your help, BTW.
The JScan thing is disappointing though. I will try to let them know there is an issue, if I can. Try the Facebook page again.
 
coyle1367 said:
I found out the issue is JScan!
It would not activate Bed Light Present in adaptations. It lists BCM Pin A5 (same as the Ram 1500) as needing to be activated, but it is BCM Pin D6 which needs to be activated.
I bought an AlfaOBD license and it activated BCM Pin D6 and the lights work normally.
I tried to post a question about this in the JScan Lovers Facebook page and they deleted my post! I guess it was because I mentioned AlfaOBD??
Anyway, JScan worked fine when I adjusted the TPMS and adjusted the speedometer in the Fall.
But, it doesn't work to activate the Bed Cargo Lights.
Just an FYI.
Click to expand...
I just made this work in Jscan if anyone else is interested. @coyle1367 was REALLY close to solving this. I searched for D 6 in the Jscan app and found it listed as “headlamp washer motor control output”. I turned it to active and boom, cargo lights now work. I will notify Jscan but if anyone is stuck in the meantime this will do it.
 

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Excellent. Glad you found the solution. I like using JScan because it works with my phone. I will try searching in the same way if I find another that doesn’t work.
 
I just installed the MOPAR 8221 5795 AC Bed light kit.

The issue I am having is my bed lights are ON, and not switching off.

After reading through this thread and watching the YouTube video it seams I have to get the truck programed? But what's odd is the switch works for the existing LED cargo light and tailgate light, and I did not expect to see the bed lights illuminate.

The cab C7 PIN 16 already had a pin installed and I T'd off the wire. As well, the under hood PIN 17 already had a pin and I T'd off that one as well.

If anyone has some additional information that would be great.

What's really has me scratching my head is why my truck didn't come with it these bed lights, given I have the bed camera AND 5th wheel/gooseneck hitch. To take it one step further, why are these plugs for these lights not already part of the wire harness, is it really that expensive to make one wire harness for all the trucks. I digress.
 
Went to our local dealership to talk to them, the guy helping me said I didn't need to connect under hood PIN 17. He also said I shouldn't need to program the computer.

I removed the under hood PIN 17 from the circuit, the lights did extinguish, but now the switch is not powering them. The switch continues to operate the cargo and tailgate lights.

Seems like there's a lot of conflicting information out there, given the Infotainment video said connecting that wire did nothing, when in fact it did supply a constant 12V.

Does anyone have an idea, or can you point me in the direction that might.

Thank you.
 
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