What's new
By:
Ram Heavy Duty Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Mopar warranty and DIY oil changes?

ThreeBearsHD

ThreeBearsHD

Well-Known Member
Messages
119
Reaction score
430
Points
63
Just bought a new 2024 Ram 2500 with the 6.7 and also bought the Mopar 10yr 120k mile warranty at the dealer. My dad's Duramax had nearly $20k in repairs over the past two years; head gaskets and injectors, then EGR system and turbo. All under 200k miles in a truck he babied, so I figured the $3k for the warranty was worth it.

But, I like to do my own oil changes using the best oil and filters based on the time of year. It can hit 100 degrees here in the summer, and -20 in the winter, so I will usually change oil weights in the Spring and Fall. I also so my first oil change on a new motor at around 1000 miles to get all of the break-in contaminants out sooner.

So, anybody know that if I do my own oil changes and keep receipts that the warranty will be valid?
 
From my understanding if you have all the necessary receipts and mileage recorded it’s not supposed to be an issue. But I can tell you I had a charger hellcat a few years ago and the motor let go. They tried to deny the claim because I did my own oil changes. After some back and forth and about a month a half later they warrantied the motor but since then I don’t even bother with my own oil changes.
 
Just document it well, receipts, photos, reset the reminders.

Why change weights? Just run 5W-40 full synthetic year round. Cummins doesn't need a break in oil change, though I did mine at around 5K only due to time, but whatever makes you feel good. Do OAI's if you prefer and/or need proof of life.

Oil filter:
Good: Mopar (LF3972)
Better: Stratapore LF16035 (I've run nothing but these since 2004)
Best: Donaldson DBL 7349 (The amsoil filter is no longer this DBL7349)

Front fuel filter MO-291 68157291AA - Fleetguard FS53000
Rear fuel filter MO-867 68436631AA - Fleetguard PF46152

Air 53034051AB (2019+ Cummins)
68517554AA (2019+ Hemi, pre 19 Cummins) (DO NOT USE sub!) throws boost codes and DPF regens
WIX 46930
Fleetguard AF27684

Fleetguard CCV Filter CV52001

Cabin 68406048AA
 
Why did Dodge switch to the 5w-40 in 2019 when they ran 15w-40 for years? I heard it was due to going to hydraulic lifters. But I've also heard it was due to EPA mileage standards and the lighter oil weight is causing issues.

Seems there are hundreds of threads and videos on it and very little agreement or consensus. I have been running a slightly thicker oil in all of my newer vehicles for years and have had no issues.
 
ThreeBearsHD said:
Why did Dodge switch to the 5w-40 in 2019 when they ran 15w-40 for years? I heard it was due to going to hydraulic lifters. But I've also heard it was due to EPA mileage standards and the lighter oil weight is causing issues.

Seems there are hundreds of threads and videos on it and very little agreement or consensus. I have been running a slightly thicker oil in all of my newer vehicles for years and have had no issues.
Click to expand...

Hydraulic lifters mostly.

DO NOT use 15W-40 in these engines.

10W-30 (blend or synthetic) or 5w-40 full synthetic.

Oil TSB: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10178698-9999.pdf
 
Brutal_HO said:
Cummins doesn't need a break in oil change, though I did mine at around 5K only due to time, but whatever makes you feel good.
Click to expand...
Why not? Granted, my automotive engineering knowledge is based on building muscle car motors and racing 40 years ago, so is not exactly up to date, lol. But don't the same issues apply with today's new motors?

When you build a new motor, you use special break in lubricants and oil in order to help all of the parts wear properly. The result of a new motor breaking in is more metal shavings, metal materials, and other crap that was trapped in oil and coolant passages getting flushed out and ending up in the pan.

I seem to recall that oil analysis findings indicate that new motors within the first 1000 miles have a crazy high amount of contaminants and debris that can compromise the oil's lubricity.
 
ThreeBearsHD said:
Why not? Granted, my automotive engineering knowledge is based on building muscle car motors and racing 40 years ago, so is not exactly up to date, lol. But don't the same issues apply with today's new motors?

When you build a new motor, you use special break in lubricants and oil in order to help all of the parts wear properly. The result of a new motor breaking in is more metal shavings, metal materials, and other crap that was trapped in oil and coolant passages getting flushed out and ending up in the pan.

I seem to recall that oil analysis findings indicate that new motors within the first 1000 miles have a crazy high amount of contaminants and debris that can compromise the oil's lubricity.
Click to expand...

Cummins break-in is done at the factory. Delivered to RAM with Valvoline Blue and they don't require any additional "break-in" maintenance.

The cylinder/ring interface will "finish" some over time, improving sealing and power. The harder you work it, the faster it will complete that finish. Changing the oil too often will extend that time interval.
 
Also, don't use oil additives. Worst snake oil ever and most are very bad for your engine. You can check out The Motor Oil Geek on youtube for his test results.

Fuel additives OTOH are beneficial to keep injectors and fuel system parts clean. The current darling around here is Archoil. Most of us that are using an additive are using Archoil, XPD, or Hotshots. Some of the 22 guys with regen issues have had some good results using Archoil.
 
I like to do all the simple maintenance on my own also.

I’m up for a new truck and track bike and I will be creating a physical and digital book with receipts and pictures of the products used and pictures of me doing the work and pictures of the ODO.
 
Many of us use the Fuelly/aCar app.

I understand the current versions and website are no longer being updated/fixed as they claim they're working on a whole new app/site.

$7/yr for apple, $5/yr for the google.
 
As others have said keep a good maintenance log and your receipts, you’ll be fine. 5w-40 year round and you’ll be able to stick to the OE service intervals. The 6.7 is very easy on oil.

While nothing bad will happen if there isn’t a breakin oil change I like to do it on everything I can, it’s going to be better for the motor.

Not sure you got a Mopar warranty, the maximum term for the OEM extended warranty is 8 years and up to 125K miles.
 
They passed the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act in the 70's for that reason. I'd use the recommended oil weights and oe or equivalent (fleetguard) filters.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top