Grid Heater Banks Monster Ram P0111/P0299

[Brutal_HO]

After reading this thread I'm wondering a couple things:
1. is it possible that the increased sound level of the turbo, interpreted as increased air flow, is really caused by a shift in the sound frequencies thereby negating the effectiveness of the cabin noise canceling system?
2. has any kind of commonality for the heater grid failure be established? For instance, perhaps trucks in northern climes require longer preheat times than truck in warmer areas and the longer preheat allows the components to overheat.

Just a couple random thoughts that came to mind while reading...

PS: I must say that I lived in fear of the dreaded CP4 failure for six years and 300,000+ miles. This heater grid bolt issue is one that is always at the edge of my mind, if I were to eliminate this potential problem, the cost would amortize out at less than $200.00 per year. Peace of mind is certainly worth that to me.
On the other hand, my observations and experience would indicate that modifying any vehicle in a way that is not within manufactures parameters ultimately leads to increased wear and tear and a shorter service life.

The BD Diesel solution is only $200.

 

[Ramasaurus]

For folks living “down Souf” … I wonder just how important or necessary a grid-heater actually is for engine “cold start” reliability.

It only gets down below 40-degrees about 4 days per year in central Texas. (used Austin for that data)

If I found that early tomorrow I needed my truck…. I’d plug-in the block heater the night before … so I can’t imagine it’d make any significant difference.

That being the indication… Why not simply delete the grid heater and live without one entirely?

<OR>

Disconnect the Pax-Battery cable from the relay to the heater?

 

[56ram2500]

For folks living “down Souf” … I wonder just how important or necessary a grid-heater actually is for engine “cold start” reliability.

It only gets down below 40-degrees about 4 days per year in central Texas. (used Austin for that data)

If I found that early tomorrow I needed my truck…. I’d plug-in the block heater the night before … so I can’t imagine it’d make any significant difference.

That being the indication… Why not simply delete the grid heater and live without one entirely?

<OR>

Disconnect the Pax-Battery cable from the relay to the heater?

I've started my truck without any problems in sub zero temp by bypassing the grid heater on start up and had no problems with it starting

 

[RamDrew42]

Craig,

I have Banks everything on my 3/4-ton 2020 Ram Limited. I have the cold air, boost tubes, monster ram, 5" exhaust, pedal monster and two supergauges in the dual pod. Truely amazing engineering and awesome gear!!

So, the spring clamp on the bottom of your throttle body needs to be tighter than you probably have it. It will be the only place that you breeched the system to install the monster ram. If that is tight, the rest will be OK. So, I don't think you have an air leak, that rush of air is the increased air out of the intercooler through the Monster Ram and through the new heater plate. You got more air flow; get used to it. It took me and finally my wife to realize that it is the new normal.

Anyway, the exact same thing happening to you, happened to me. Same codes. Exact same thing with fuel economy. Excessive regen's. One of the codes is parasitic (one caused the other; fix one, the other goes away). I had the truck at Ram on three separate occasions, each time they claimed the problem solved. Each time after a few days, the codes came back. In total, they had the truck for almost two months. They gave it back to me without fixing it, stating the modifications I made were incompatible with the computer and that it needed to go back to stock. During this process, I spoke to many Banks technical support guys. The last one didn't go down the same rabbit holes as the others I had spoken to. He suggested I check the plugs on my EGR temp sensor and the heater plate temp sensor (the one repositioned in the new heater plate that has the new pigtail). Since both of these sensors have the exact same plug and now, since the added pigtail is present --> both connections are in just about the same place (behind the monster ram). He suggested that I check the wiring of the plug in my EGR. The wire plugged into the EGR was wrong. So, I swapped the connections of the two plugs . . . and voila!! All the problems went away. The truck is a raped ape now. I am making an average 21-22 mpg on the highway (at 77-80 mph) and about 17-19 in the city. I suppose it would be better if I took my foot out of it. Sometimes I enjoy that pedal monster a little too much. I am absolutely confident that this is your problem. A trip to O'Reilly's to borrow their scanner cancelled the P0299 and P0111. Now that I have added the supergauges, I can cancel any codes from the driver's seat.

Let me know if this makes you whole.

Cheers!!

George

Which plug do I check? I know the one with the new extension. But I can’t find any other plugs that look the same as that one.