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Grid Heater Banks Monster Ram P0111/P0299

craigw

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Ok, I have gone down the rabbit hole and need some ideas of what might be going on.

I have a mostly stock 2019 Ram 3500 SRW HO 6.7. About a year ago I replaced the engine air filter box with the S & B. No issues from it. Recently I installed the Banks Monster Ram to eliminate any grid heater issues down the road. Well.....install went ok. No fuel leaks and cranked fine. Problem is that I am getting what sounds like a massive air leak coming from the drivers side engine compartment. The sound only comes under throttel. In the last few days I am getting P0299 (Turbo under boost) and P0111 (Air Temp Sensor). When driving it feels like I'm about 25% reduced power and fuel econ has going to crap. While idling I checked for air leaks with soapy water, and nothing was apparent. I have checked double-checked that all the threaded plugs from Banks for sensors are in place so no holes for air to just escape. I have taken out the MAP sensor, cleaned and re-installed making sure it had a good, seated seal.

Any ideas of what to look at would be appreciated.


Thanks
 
The ram comes with open ports on it, did you plug all of those holes with the supplied hardware?

The only other items on the list to check that was messed with in the install would be check the gasket on the heater grid plate, then make sure you tightend everything down on that, then make sure you also tighted the ram on correctly. Then inspect boths sides of the EGR pipe, and the only other thing after that would be the bottom half of the intake side of the ram. i believe there is a gasket on that as well and make sure everything there is tight and or in place.

I would personaly start working backwards and check everything.
 
I have one of these - https://duramaxtuner.com/turbo-chargers/boost-tester.html

You can make your own or there are others out there, but pressurizing the intake to 25psi and spraying all connections, gasket, flange, etc locations is where I'd start. My install had some egr leaks that I needed to have corrected as well as a gasket issue - Found a new diesel mechanic after that between correcting some things myself and having my new guy fix the rest. Without a boost leak tester, finding those leaks would've taking alot more work.
 
Ok, I have gone down the rabbit hole and need some ideas of what might be going on.

I have a mostly stock 2019 Ram 3500 SRW HO 6.7. About a year ago I replaced the engine air filter box with the S & B. No issues from it. Recently I installed the Banks Monster Ram to eliminate any grid heater issues down the road. Well.....install went ok. No fuel leaks and cranked fine. Problem is that I am getting what sounds like a massive air leak coming from the driver's side engine compartment. The sound only comes under throttle. In the last few days, I am getting P0299 (Turbo under boost) and P0111 (Air Temp Sensor). When driving it feels like I'm about 25% reduced power and fuel econ has going to crap. While idling I checked for air leaks with soapy water, and nothing was apparent. I have checked double-checked that all the threaded plugs from Banks for sensors are in place so no holes for air to just escape. I have taken out the MAP sensor, cleaned and re-installed making sure it had a good, seated seal.

Any ideas of what to look at would be appreciated.


Thanks
Craig,

I have Banks everything on my 3/4-ton 2020 Ram Limited. I have the cold air, boost tubes, monster ram, 5" exhaust, pedal monster and two supergauges in the dual pod. Truely amazing engineering and awesome gear!!

So, the spring clamp on the bottom of your throttle body needs to be tighter than you probably have it. It will be the only place that you breeched the system to install the monster ram. If that is tight, the rest will be OK. So, I don't think you have an air leak, that rush of air is the increased air out of the intercooler through the Monster Ram and through the new heater plate. You got more air flow; get used to it. It took me and finally my wife to realize that it is the new normal.

Anyway, the exact same thing happening to you, happened to me. Same codes. Exact same thing with fuel economy. Excessive regen's. One of the codes is parasitic (one caused the other; fix one, the other goes away). I had the truck at Ram on three separate occasions, each time they claimed the problem solved. Each time after a few days, the codes came back. In total, they had the truck for almost two months. They gave it back to me without fixing it, stating the modifications I made were incompatible with the computer and that it needed to go back to stock. During this process, I spoke to many Banks technical support guys. The last one didn't go down the same rabbit holes as the others I had spoken to. He suggested I check the plugs on my EGR temp sensor and the heater plate temp sensor (the one repositioned in the new heater plate that has the new pigtail). Since both of these sensors have the exact same plug and now, since the added pigtail is present --> both connections are in just about the same place (behind the monster ram). He suggested that I check the wiring of the plug in my EGR. The wire plugged into the EGR was wrong. So, I swapped the connections of the two plugs . . . and voila!! All the problems went away. The truck is a raped ape now. I am making an average 21-22 mpg on the highway (at 77-80 mph) and about 17-19 in the city. I suppose it would be better if I took my foot out of it. Sometimes I enjoy that pedal monster a little too much. I am absolutely confident that this is your problem. A trip to O'Reilly's to borrow their scanner cancelled the P0299 and P0111. Now that I have added the supergauges, I can cancel any codes from the driver's seat.

Let me know if this makes you whole.

Cheers!!

George
 
Craig,

I have Banks everything on my 3/4-ton 2020 Ram Limited. I have the cold air, boost tubes, monster ram, 5" exhaust, pedal monster and two supergauges in the dual pod. Truely amazing engineering and awesome gear!!

So, the spring clamp on the bottom of your throttle body needs to be tighter than you probably have it. It will be the only place that you breeched the system to install the monster ram. If that is tight, the rest will be OK. So, I don't think you have an air leak, that rush of air is the increased air out of the intercooler through the Monster Ram and through the new heater plate. You got more air flow; get used to it. It took me and finally my wife to realize that it is the new normal.

Anyway, the exact same thing happening to you, happened to me. Same codes. Exact same thing with fuel economy. Excessive regen's. One of the codes is parasitic (one caused the other; fix one, the other goes away). I had the truck at Ram on three separate occasions, each time they claimed the problem solved. Each time after a few days, the codes came back. In total, they had the truck for almost two months. They gave it back to me without fixing it, stating the modifications I made were incompatible with the computer and that it needed to go back to stock. During this process, I spoke to many Banks technical support guys. The last one didn't go down the same rabbit holes as the others I had spoken to. He suggested I check the plugs on my EGR temp sensor and the heater plate temp sensor (the one repositioned in the new heater plate that has the new pigtail). Since both of these sensors have the exact same plug and now, since the added pigtail is present --> both connections are in just about the same place (behind the monster ram). He suggested that I check the wiring of the plug in my EGR. The wire plugged into the EGR was wrong. So, I swapped the connections of the two plugs . . . and voila!! All the problems went away. The truck is a raped ape now. I am making an average 21-22 mpg on the highway (at 77-80 mph) and about 17-19 in the city. I suppose it would be better if I took my foot out of it. Sometimes I enjoy that pedal monster a little too much. I am absolutely confident that this is your problem. A trip to O'Reilly's to borrow their scanner cancelled the P0299 and P0111. Now that I have added the supergauges, I can cancel any codes from the driver's seat.

Let me know if this makes you whole.

Cheers!!

George
I have wanted to see/hear a report like this I hope this solves the OP issue
 
Craig,

I have Banks everything on my 3/4-ton 2020 Ram Limited. I have the cold air, boost tubes, monster ram, 5" exhaust, pedal monster and two supergauges in the dual pod. Truely amazing engineering and awesome gear!!

So, the spring clamp on the bottom of your throttle body needs to be tighter than you probably have it. It will be the only place that you breeched the system to install the monster ram. If that is tight, the rest will be OK. So, I don't think you have an air leak, that rush of air is the increased air out of the intercooler through the Monster Ram and through the new heater plate. You got more air flow; get used to it. It took me and finally my wife to realize that it is the new normal.

Anyway, the exact same thing happening to you, happened to me. Same codes. Exact same thing with fuel economy. Excessive regen's. One of the codes is parasitic (one caused the other; fix one, the other goes away). I had the truck at Ram on three separate occasions, each time they claimed the problem solved. Each time after a few days, the codes came back. In total, they had the truck for almost two months. They gave it back to me without fixing it, stating the modifications I made were incompatible with the computer and that it needed to go back to stock. During this process, I spoke to many Banks technical support guys. The last one didn't go down the same rabbit holes as the others I had spoken to. He suggested I check the plugs on my EGR temp sensor and the heater plate temp sensor (the one repositioned in the new heater plate that has the new pigtail). Since both of these sensors have the exact same plug and now, since the added pigtail is present --> both connections are in just about the same place (behind the monster ram). He suggested that I check the wiring of the plug in my EGR. The wire plugged into the EGR was wrong. So, I swapped the connections of the two plugs . . . and voila!! All the problems went away. The truck is a raped ape now. I am making an average 21-22 mpg on the highway (at 77-80 mph) and about 17-19 in the city. I suppose it would be better if I took my foot out of it. Sometimes I enjoy that pedal monster a little too much. I am absolutely confident that this is your problem. A trip to O'Reilly's to borrow their scanner cancelled the P0299 and P0111. Now that I have added the supergauges, I can cancel any codes from the driver's seat.

Let me know if this makes you whole.

Cheers!!

George


☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️



I just had to create an account here so I could thank you and just confirm that I also had the exact same issue and was super worried I broke something. I did notice during install those 2 temp sensors were the same style plug but was sure I did it right. The harnesses slack looked right. After a day of driving and some weird car performance I noticed the check engine light come on. When I checked on my idash I had those same 2 codes. If it wasn't for this thread I probably would have gone down the same rabbit hole replacing sensors. I did clean the map sensor because it was totally caked in soot and thought that must be it.

On my 21 ram 2500 the engine manifold intake temp sensor plugs in right by the main communication plug. That jiant plug at the back of the engine bay by the fuel rails and the egr temp sensor plugs into the connector just behind the erg closer to the egr crossover tube just to the right of the engine.

Cleared the codes and truck feels like normal again.

I also did the banks monster air intake at the same time so that was also worrying me about what I did wrong.

Holy crap though. The sound the engine makes now is crazy. The exhaust brake is 10x louder and feels stronger but not sure if it is stronger or its just in my head lol. Also the turbo and actual air forced into the manifold is so loud. So glad I got the balls to attempt the install myself finally. Took nearly 10 hours but I'm very new to engine stuff and alot of the time was on those damn fuel rails

Anyways thanks again!!!
 
I am glad that my misfortunes actually pay off for someone else's silver lining. With forums like this we can relay things that are our truck specific and how it was handled. Maybe, just maybe, a person can be led straight to the source. Recently, I purchased a 2024 Ram 2500 for my company. The service advisor saw me and asked how my truck was running. When I told him what the problem ended up being . . . he was embarrassed. I guess the experience of a 40-year diesel pro and 25-year diesel apprentice didn't know everything. It is easy to blame aftermarket parts for ineptitude, but in this case the answer was easy to find/fix . . . and a novice making a few calls is all it took.

On another note, banks now have an aluminum MAP relocation block that pilot into the back of the monster ram. It effectively takes the MAP out of the air stream and alleviates soot buildup. Less than $100. If you go that route, remember to get the sensor wire extension when ordering. Without it, the wire is a little stretched to get to the connection.

About the engine sounds and power: I see/feel it too. Amazing. My MPG totalizer has me at 18.9 right now (city/highway 50/50). About 24.5 MPG on the highway at 75/80 MPH. It took me from sunup to sundown to install mine, so it was about the same timeframe as you. The one thing I would suggest to anyone who will try this is to have a good under hood light.
-The understructure of our hoods is aluminum so a magnet lightbar is worthless.
-Bag and tag all the hardware; lengths of bolts are not the same so remember where they all come from.
-Mark all the plugs prior to disconnecting to keep this crap from happening to you.
-I didn't remove the fuel lines from the back end of the fuel rail. I simple pried it up enough to get the heater plate out and replace it with the new gasket/replacement plate. Made my life so much easier.
-The covers, parts, and hardware that you are omitting from reinstall . . . put them in a box and seal it prior to reinstall, get it out of your life. It is less to look at. You will not inadvertently use the wrong hardware either.
-Getting into the engine bay takes an act of Congress. I used two step ladders and made a bridge (scaffold) with a 2 X 12. It was strong enough to support my 16-year-old boy and my fat ass. That made life easier.
-Take your time, follow the step by step, use the videos and it is not so bad. By the way, the video makes it look a lot easier then it is. Don't get pissed at them; they probably have installed hundreds of them and know the pitfalls.

Cheers everyone!!

George
 
If you guys are implying that I am a Banks employee . . . I'm not. Just a Texan that found great products that actually do what is advertised. While I'll visit California, I'll never live or work there (I am a traveller for work); have you seen the state taxes??!!. It is also way too blue of a state for me. However, if you are ever in the North Dallas area, look me up, I'll be glad to show you what is what . . . maybe throw a brew back. I'm just waiting for the Derringer tuner that should be out early next year. Then it will be a screamin' demon!!

g
 
Everyone is so quick to try and sound like they are in the know....like everyone who buys banks parts and comes here to tell their success story just has to be an employee...:rolleyes:OK, so their parts are expensive! There are plenty other options....OK, so they might not perform as well in people's DIY testing setup...There are plenty of other options! Never seen so much hate for a company's products. I like everything I've purchased and also not an employee.
 
If you guys are implying that I am a Banks employee . . . I'm not. Just a Texan that found great products that actually do what is advertised. While I'll visit California, I'll never live or work there (I am a traveller for work); have you seen the state taxes??!!. It is also way too blue of a state for me. However, if you are ever in the North Dallas area, look me up, I'll be glad to show you what is what . . . maybe throw a brew back. I'm just waiting for the Derringer tuner that should be out early next year. Then it will be a screamin' demon!!

g
Derringer has been coming out next year since 2020. youll continue to wait.
 
Everyone is so quick to try and sound like they are in the know....like everyone who buys banks parts and comes here to tell their success story just has to be an employee...:rolleyes:OK, so their parts are expensive! There are plenty other options....OK, so they might not perform as well in people's DIY testing setup...There are plenty of other options! Never seen so much hate for a company's products. I like everything I've purchased and also not an employee.

Considering your talking to a guy that had all of this stuff on his truck and installed it himself i can tell you that the only difference anything made out of everything you can buy is the cold air intake. and the only difference that made was how loud the turbo sounded. And i personally do not like the banks cold air intake due to the fact the bottom of the housing is left wide open for more air. anyting coming up in front of the fender has access to the filter. like mud, dirt, water ect.

not trying to talk down to you or be a prick, but none of it makes a ounce of difference for power. Does it look cool, yea. but other than that, you can go half the price and achieve the same results with other companies. So when i say you sound like a bank's employee what im really saying is you spent 2k and need to justify to others that you made poor financial decisions.
 
Now I wish Craig would come back and tell us if it fixed it… love to hear happy endings when someone else can nail the issue.
 
Derringer has been coming out next year since 2020. youll continue to wait.
Which sucks . . . and wait I will. Unfortunately, Banks began the R&D process about the same timeframe when they won the bid to provide the engine package to the US Military. Their 6.6L Diesel will be all Banks . . . designed for the upcoming military vehicles. The problem was that it put a halt to the last Derringer R&D. Since that package has already rolled out, they went back to the RAM offering for the Derringer. It put them years behind, but it answers the question on why they are so late with this tuner.

cheers,

g
 
Considering your talking to a guy that had all of this stuff on his truck and installed it himself i can tell you that the only difference anything made out of everything you can buy is the cold air intake. and the only difference that made was how loud the turbo sounded. And i personally do not like the banks cold air intake due to the fact the bottom of the housing is left wide open for more air. anyting coming up in front of the fender has access to the filter. like mud, dirt, water ect.

not trying to talk down to you or be a prick, but none of it makes a ounce of difference for power. Does it look cool, yea. but other than that, you can go half the price and achieve the same results with other companies. So when i say you sound like a bank's employee what im really saying is you spent 2k and need to justify to others that you made poor financial decisions.
 
A very wise man once said, "without information, you are just an opinion." So, when you say, " . . . but none of it makes a ounce of difference for power. Does it look cool, yea. but other than that, you can go half the price and achieve the same results with other companies . . . " you are not speaking from a position of knowledge, rather, an opinion. I respect your opinion; it is what makes the world go around. However, I don't agree . . . my opinion originating from a position of information. Please understand that I have experienced stock versus what I have now, and it is amazing. I can't speak to any other manufacturers; I won't even broach the subject. I only know that I vetted everyone and everything out there and this is where I landed. I am not loose with my money. It has to make sense. I spent it, you have to know that my research was conducted because I was going to spend, so it had to be right. Everyone else? It is true that they are cheaper: cheaper in cost, quality, and results. In the case of manifold versus manifold, the cost was marginally similar (yeah, you win, banks costed a little more). However, the Banks manifold package cost difference was the heater plate, and heater relocation coil. THAT is what made it cost more and the real reason I changed the intake. You have to know this to speak on the matter and Banks is the only one that offers it. I really wasn't after power gains, I just wanted to know that grid bolt was not going to take out my engine. Problem solved. The power gains, well . . . that was an added bonus. The fuel economy and basic seat of pants feel when I take off is a night and day difference. I am getting 12-13 mpg . . . towing my 13,500-pound fifth wheel. I already mentioned in another post what I am getting mpg city/highway. If you sat next to me as I hammer the throttle . . . if you use cuss words, you would cuss.

Engine sound . . . cold air . . . errrrr. Um, there is an audible turbo whine that is apparent in ALL cold airs. Mine is no different. I have ridden in 8 different Rams with various stages of modification from totally stock to full delete. Those who ride in my truck ask how much my delete package costed me and where I got it done. They are surprised to learn that I haven't deleted it, and there isn't a tune on it. The sound the engine makes is due to the increase air going through the system. If the manifold is the bottleneck and stock manifolds are, you will not hear it in your truck. Hell, one of the aftermarket intakes out there flows less than stock!! So, no matter what type of cold air you have, if you can't use more air, the installation of one is a waste of money. My Monster Ram is right in front of me, I hear it roar when I open it up because I flow 80% or so more air than stock. You can be a naysayer and one of the "half price, does the same thing," opinion. However, until you feel it, you are on the outside looking in. Oh, and by the way, I have driven in places that goats wouldn't walk . . . rain, water, snow, sleet, mud halfway up the tires . . . and no water, mud or anything in my cold air. I guess those guys at Banks have their head screwed on straight. Another myth dispelled.

I really don't need to justify anything to anyone. "Poor financial decisions" that is another opinion. In my opinion, I have spent well. By the way, 2k is chump change when spread out over a few years . . . and I'd venture to say it was a bit more than that. I don't go for name brands, the most expensive, or do anything on the cheap. Rather, I want what is cost effective and does what is promised. Lastly, I go for those outfits that stand behind their product and back it up with a customer service team that is second to none. They helped me help others on this site. It is their insight and knowledge that is worth the money spent. Look at the research and put your one-sided views aside (since it is all about cost) and see why Banks got a multi-million-dollar contract with the US Government to provide them with Banks built diesel engines. I'll go out on a limb and offer that it wasn't because they engineer crap . . . or that their stuff doesn't perform as promised. I'll be honest, I didn't know what I was getting when I ordered the cold air and boost tubes (the first purchase). Just those two items I saw improvement. Nothing that wowed me but improvement, nonetheless. When I added the exhaust and manifold, HOLY crap!! it woke up the sleeping beast. I added the pedal monster, and I am content to wait as long as it takes on the derringer. With the iDash interface, it is all plug and play. No burning the ECM, complete installation within a few minutes and reversible just as fast. No evidence of installation. No scanner will ever know it was there.

I'll agree that Banks stuff costs more. A little bit. It is heads above anything that is out there though . . . and yeah, that is an opinion too.

cheers,

g
 
"80% or so more air than stock"

80%

LOL. I think you moved a decimal.

Won't be long before Banks sues these guys to take this down like they did to DOUBLE R DIESEL when they showed a LOSS in power on a non tuned truck.

 
A very wise man once said, "without information, you are just an opinion." So, when you say, " . . . but none of it makes a ounce of difference for power. Does it look cool, yea. but other than that, you can go half the price and achieve the same results with other companies . . . " you are not speaking from a position of knowledge, rather, an opinion. I respect your opinion; it is what makes the world go around. However, I don't agree . . . my opinion originating from a position of information. Please understand that I have experienced stock versus what I have now, and it is amazing. I can't speak to any other manufacturers; I won't even broach the subject. I only know that I vetted everyone and everything out there and this is where I landed. I am not loose with my money. It has to make sense. I spent it, you have to know that my research was conducted because I was going to spend, so it had to be right. Everyone else? It is true that they are cheaper: cheaper in cost, quality, and results. In the case of manifold versus manifold, the cost was marginally similar (yeah, you win, banks costed a little more). However, the Banks manifold package cost difference was the heater plate, and heater relocation coil. THAT is what made it cost more and the real reason I changed the intake. You have to know this to speak on the matter and Banks is the only one that offers it. I really wasn't after power gains, I just wanted to know that grid bolt was not going to take out my engine. Problem solved. The power gains, well . . . that was an added bonus. The fuel economy and basic seat of pants feel when I take off is a night and day difference. I am getting 12-13 mpg . . . towing my 13,500-pound fifth wheel. I already mentioned in another post what I am getting mpg city/highway. If you sat next to me as I hammer the throttle . . . if you use cuss words, you would cuss.

Engine sound . . . cold air . . . errrrr. Um, there is an audible turbo whine that is apparent in ALL cold airs. Mine is no different. I have ridden in 8 different Rams with various stages of modification from totally stock to full delete. Those who ride in my truck ask how much my delete package costed me and where I got it done. They are surprised to learn that I haven't deleted it, and there isn't a tune on it. The sound the engine makes is due to the increase air going through the system. If the manifold is the bottleneck and stock manifolds are, you will not hear it in your truck. Hell, one of the aftermarket intakes out there flows less than stock!! So, no matter what type of cold air you have, if you can't use more air, the installation of one is a waste of money. My Monster Ram is right in front of me, I hear it roar when I open it up because I flow 80% or so more air than stock. You can be a naysayer and one of the "half price, does the same thing," opinion. However, until you feel it, you are on the outside looking in. Oh, and by the way, I have driven in places that goats wouldn't walk . . . rain, water, snow, sleet, mud halfway up the tires . . . and no water, mud or anything in my cold air. I guess those guys at Banks have their head screwed on straight. Another myth dispelled.

I really don't need to justify anything to anyone. "Poor financial decisions" that is another opinion. In my opinion, I have spent well. By the way, 2k is chump change when spread out over a few years . . . and I'd venture to say it was a bit more than that. I don't go for name brands, the most expensive, or do anything on the cheap. Rather, I want what is cost effective and does what is promised. Lastly, I go for those outfits that stand behind their product and back it up with a customer service team that is second to none. They helped me help others on this site. It is their insight and knowledge that is worth the money spent. Look at the research and put your one-sided views aside (since it is all about cost) and see why Banks got a multi-million-dollar contract with the US Government to provide them with Banks built diesel engines. I'll go out on a limb and offer that it wasn't because they engineer crap . . . or that their stuff doesn't perform as promised. I'll be honest, I didn't know what I was getting when I ordered the cold air and boost tubes (the first purchase). Just those two items I saw improvement. Nothing that wowed me but improvement, nonetheless. When I added the exhaust and manifold, HOLY crap!! it woke up the sleeping beast. I added the pedal monster, and I am content to wait as long as it takes on the derringer. With the iDash interface, it is all plug and play. No burning the ECM, complete installation within a few minutes and reversible just as fast. No evidence of installation. No scanner will ever know it was there.

I'll agree that Banks stuff costs more. A little bit. It is heads above anything that is out there though . . . and yeah, that is an opinion too.

cheers,

g
I just laugh, laugh and laugh again when all the bank$ fanboy$ talk about how the bank$ intake, intercooler pipe$, and intake horn flow 1008 cfm WHEN THE STOCK HEAD CAN ONLY FLOW 165! Reminds me of when someone passes me on a double yellow line just to catch the next red traffic light. A very wise man once said “A fool and his money are soon parted”….
 
A very wise man once said, "without information, you are just an opinion." So, when you say, " . . . but none of it makes a ounce of difference for power. Does it look cool, yea. but other than that, you can go half the price and achieve the same results with other companies . . . " you are not speaking from a position of knowledge, rather, an opinion. I respect your opinion; it is what makes the world go around. However, I don't agree . . . my opinion originating from a position of information. Please understand that I have experienced stock versus what I have now, and it is amazing. I can't speak to any other manufacturers; I won't even broach the subject. I only know that I vetted everyone and everything out there and this is where I landed. I am not loose with my money. It has to make sense. I spent it, you have to know that my research was conducted because I was going to spend, so it had to be right. Everyone else? It is true that they are cheaper: cheaper in cost, quality, and results. In the case of manifold versus manifold, the cost was marginally similar (yeah, you win, banks costed a little more). However, the Banks manifold package cost difference was the heater plate, and heater relocation coil. THAT is what made it cost more and the real reason I changed the intake. You have to know this to speak on the matter and Banks is the only one that offers it. I really wasn't after power gains, I just wanted to know that grid bolt was not going to take out my engine. Problem solved. The power gains, well . . . that was an added bonus. The fuel economy and basic seat of pants feel when I take off is a night and day difference. I am getting 12-13 mpg . . . towing my 13,500-pound fifth wheel. I already mentioned in another post what I am getting mpg city/highway. If you sat next to me as I hammer the throttle . . . if you use cuss words, you would cuss.

Engine sound . . . cold air . . . errrrr. Um, there is an audible turbo whine that is apparent in ALL cold airs. Mine is no different. I have ridden in 8 different Rams with various stages of modification from totally stock to full delete. Those who ride in my truck ask how much my delete package costed me and where I got it done. They are surprised to learn that I haven't deleted it, and there isn't a tune on it. The sound the engine makes is due to the increase air going through the system. If the manifold is the bottleneck and stock manifolds are, you will not hear it in your truck. Hell, one of the aftermarket intakes out there flows less than stock!! So, no matter what type of cold air you have, if you can't use more air, the installation of one is a waste of money. My Monster Ram is right in front of me, I hear it roar when I open it up because I flow 80% or so more air than stock. You can be a naysayer and one of the "half price, does the same thing," opinion. However, until you feel it, you are on the outside looking in. Oh, and by the way, I have driven in places that goats wouldn't walk . . . rain, water, snow, sleet, mud halfway up the tires . . . and no water, mud or anything in my cold air. I guess those guys at Banks have their head screwed on straight. Another myth dispelled.

I really don't need to justify anything to anyone. "Poor financial decisions" that is another opinion. In my opinion, I have spent well. By the way, 2k is chump change when spread out over a few years . . . and I'd venture to say it was a bit more than that. I don't go for name brands, the most expensive, or do anything on the cheap. Rather, I want what is cost effective and does what is promised. Lastly, I go for those outfits that stand behind their product and back it up with a customer service team that is second to none. They helped me help others on this site. It is their insight and knowledge that is worth the money spent. Look at the research and put your one-sided views aside (since it is all about cost) and see why Banks got a multi-million-dollar contract with the US Government to provide them with Banks built diesel engines. I'll go out on a limb and offer that it wasn't because they engineer crap . . . or that their stuff doesn't perform as promised. I'll be honest, I didn't know what I was getting when I ordered the cold air and boost tubes (the first purchase). Just those two items I saw improvement. Nothing that wowed me but improvement, nonetheless. When I added the exhaust and manifold, HOLY crap!! it woke up the sleeping beast. I added the pedal monster, and I am content to wait as long as it takes on the derringer. With the iDash interface, it is all plug and play. No burning the ECM, complete installation within a few minutes and reversible just as fast. No evidence of installation. No scanner will ever know it was there.

I'll agree that Banks stuff costs more. A little bit. It is heads above anything that is out there though . . . and yeah, that is an opinion too.

cheers,

g

..... lol i just cant with you lol
 
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