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Genomer Night Build

.genomer

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Some trial, error and tweaking as I move toward the look and function I like, but here's the build. The end game goal revolves around commuting, some towing and light overland camping. I wanted to substantially improve ride quality, while maintaining factory tow and payload. It was also important to me that the vehicle fall within local vehicle code requirements.

Specs:
2019 Ram 2500 Short Bed 4x4 6.7L Cummins
20191209_204220.jpg20191209_204635.jpg
Window Sticker:
Screenshot_20200803-211756_Drive.jpg
Max Payload: 2107 lb (955.85 kg)
Max Towing: 19107 lb (8666.92 kg)

Exterior
• Debadged
• Mopar Offroad Flares, Paint Matched
• Smoked Mirror Tow Lamps
• 1/4" Front Skid Plate

Lighting
• Baja Designs Sport Fogs (Zone 1/2, OEM Switch)
• Baja Designs XL Driving/Combo A-Pillar Pods (Zone 3/4, Aux #2)
• Baja Designs/RC Lower Driving Combo (Zone 3, Aux #3)
• Baja Designs S2 Flush Mount Work/Scene (Zone 7, Aux #6)
2016 Lighting Zones Chart.jpg

Suspension
• Carli 2.5" Leveling Kit
• Carli Track Bar
• Carli Steering Stabilizer
• Carli Diesel Fill Cap
• Carli Torsion Sway Bar
• Carli Diff Guard

Wheels/Tires
• Falken Wildpeak At3 35x12.5x17R
• 17" Method Racing 315 Wheels, CJC Edition +25 Offset

Bed/Cargo
• Gator LoPro Roll-Up Tonneau Cover
• TruXedo TonneauMate Toolbox

Updated Build (08-02-2020):

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If you could give us your thoughts on your tires that would be great. Grip, noise level, ride etc.THX and awesome Night :cool:
 
If you could give us your thoughts on your tires that would be great. Grip, noise level, ride etc.THX and awesome Night :cool:

Absolutely.

These Wildpeaks actually surprised me. The noise level is phenomenal. I expected a little whine with the windows up but they may be even quieter than my stock Transforces. With the windows down, a faint 'soccer cleat' can be heard at low speeds. Once you hit 30mph, the diesel/turbo/wind take over. Again, the hum isn't much different from stock (which is touted by Falken). I've noticed, in a side by side comparison, that the new meat has much more tread as well. Falken offers a mild 55,000 mile warranty, however that isn't concerning for me.

The onroad grip is something I'd call average to above average for an all terrain tire. Ride quality is significantly improved. The Transforces are what they are and I was driving on manufacturer specs for air pressure. The combination of 17's on more tire and an appropriate 65psi front/ 50psi rear soak up all those little imperfections on back roads. As far as commuting, towing and typical road driving, I love and would recommend them for sure.

Unfortunately, I'll need to update on offroad/wet conditions in the future. I really look forward to grip/capability on dirt and rock surfaces. When that takes place, I'll update further.
 
If you didn't put paint protection film or stick-on trim tape under/on those fender flares' rubber trim you're going to regret it when they rash through the clearcoat and paint.

Time will definitely tell. Oddly enough, the stock flares were beginning to scratch the fender paint. None of this was visible with them on. It wasn't until I was up close and started removing the clips that the arched scuffing was apparent. I pulled them off at only 4k miles.

While the effects may hold the same result in the end, the rubber is far superior in paint protection than that of the stock ABS to direct fender/quarter panel paint contact.
 
Time will definitely tell. Oddly enough, the stock flares were beginning to scratch the fender paint. None of this was visible with them on. It wasn't until I was up close and started removing the clips that the arched scuffing was apparent. I pulled them off at only 4k miles.

While the effects may hold the same result in the end, the rubber is far superior in paint protection than that of the stock ABS to direct fender/quarter panel paint contact.

I had flares on my 04.5 for 6 months and the paint got rashed. Trust me, it will happen. The rubber will actually hold more dust and dirt and abrade worse than bare ABS.

I'm going to pull my stock flares off and put some paint protection tape behind them unless they're stuck on with trim tape. Even if they never come off again as long as I own the truck or until I die, I'll know the paint will be OK.
 
Driving a vehicle where I live will wreck any paint job, quick. Had a low mileage Jeep JK and the stock fenders rubbed right through the paint all around the fender. Also had a Dodge Nitro and the roof rack rubbed through the paint and was starting to rust like crazy. :mad: Sometimes you can’t win for loosing. I do wash my vehicles as much as possible too.
 
Took on a couple minor projects today.

TruXedo TonneauMate Toolbox installed:

Tinted the dreaded white mirror lamps and debadged:

1588396544682.png

Please tell me about this. Actually interested more in the bracket for a possible antenna mount.
 
I think it could definitely work, as long as the underside hardware doesn't extend more than an inch.

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As you can see, the hardware doesn't sit drastically far from the paint but I think an inch of clearance was a fair assessment.

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The photo above is from the stock imagery. With the hood lifted and wiper plastic moved aside, you really only remove 1 bolt and replace it. The bracket (and antenna vertical clearance) doesn't hinder the hood range of motion.

I'm sure Baja would sell the brackets alone and possibly one specific side. Reference SKU: 448036 when calling them.
 
Thanks.

I wonder if they're strong enough to support a 3' firefly antenna. I'm sure they would be fine for a little 10M whip.
 
I think so. The machined metal work is strong. I think the lights I have on there weigh about 2-3 lbs.
 
If you try it, I'd seriously consider putting plastic or rubber caps on the bottom of the antenna's through-mount bolt. I'd even consider applying a rubberized coating to the bracket itself. The antenna's weight is not the issue. But the air drag on the antenna at highway speed, especially in gusts or around semitrucks, could cause some extremes in torque on the bracket, causing it to bend down enough to bump the paint. Perhaps the trailing edge of the bracket if it twists. Or it could allow the bolt/nut of the antenna to hit the paint. I'm not saying don't try the mount. I do think that you might be glad you took precautionary measures.
 
What size is the light bay in the lower grill area and how did you mount it?

I had a 20" curved bar from Black Oak LED i took out of the 2016 3500 Limited SRW I traded in for my 2020 3500 Limited DRW and was trying to figure out where to mount it in that area.

Truck looks good by the way.
 
What size is the light bay in the lower grill area and how did you mount it?

I had a 20" curved bar from Black Oak LED i took out of the 2016 3500 Limited SRW I traded in for my 2020 3500 Limited DRW and was trying to figure out where to mount it in that area.

Truck looks good by the way.

Thanks!


Going into the build, I knew I wanted to stay brand loyal and utilize high quality products. As this pertains to lighting, naturally I gravitated toward Baja Designs. The Baja brackets holding the light bar were quite pricey, but the only ones on the market as well.

I had a Rough Country Black Series 20" straight bar left over from another project. This was used as a short cut (or maybe temporary) solution to a $700 lower grill bar. Because I cut corners here, there were snags. The Baja Designs brackets are adjustable within a light bar width range of 19" to 21". The true dimensions of my Rough Country light bar was 22" end to end.

It took hours and some force to squeeze the bar into place to be fastened to the Baja Designs bracket. The wiring was routed up the front driver's side and to the Auxiliary panel.

Tl;dr
Baja Designs brackets are currently $231 for a set (call directly for purchase).

Ensure the light bar used is within 19" - 21" for optimum adjustment and fit. (Your Black Oak bar can be made to fit, but its true length is 21.4" and may take a bit of finesse)

Don't sacrifice quality for lumens or wattage. If you pay for the brackets, go big or go home. The lower grill doesn't hinder lighting or create park sensor problems, but you want a light that can offer substantial light throwing range, after all that's the whole idea of the modification.

Hope this sheds some light (giggity) on the subject before you spend some good money on a bolt on light bar bracket system!


Lower valence off the truck and the new brackets before install.20200502_151549.jpg
 
Those brackets are spendy. Good to know you can get them by themselves if needed. I had Rough Country brackets on the '16. While they worked, their quality of fitment wasn't the best in my opinion. And having to deal with the tow hooks was challenging. At least for me. I spent more time getting the bolts back in then the total time it took for everything else. Thank you for the info and advice.
 
Some trial, error and tweaking as I move toward the look and function I like, but here's the build spec:

• Baja Designs XL Sport A-Pillar Pods
• Baja Designs Squardron Sport Fog Lights
• Baja Designs, Lower Grill Light Bar
• Carli 2.5" Leveling Kit
• Carli Track Bar
• Carli Steering Stabilizer
• Carli Torsion Sway Bar
• Carli Diff Guard
• Carli Diesel Fill Cap
• Falken Wildpeak At3 35x12.5x17R (no trimming/no rubbing)
• Method Racing 315 Wheels (17", +25 offset)
• Mopar Offroad Flares (Paint matched)
• Gator Soft Roll Tonneau Cover
• TruXedo TonneauMate Toolbox
• Tinted Mirror Tow Lamps, Debadged

Updated Build (5-10-2020):

View attachment 4452View attachment 4450
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Looking sweet!!!!!
 
Looking sweet!!!!!

Thanks dude! Few more things on the list (carli radius arms/drops, limited trim replacement etc). I really wanna figure out a high mount stop light solution. I love the GJ Motorsport brake light, but there's obvious hesitation in purchasing a $700 3rd brake light with no 5th wheel camera option.
 
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