Do I have a potentially faulty DPF Sensor

[PatrickBrooke]

Hi all,
So I am in need of a bit of advice/help on this. It pertains to the dreaded DPF and Regen issues. And I apologize for the long post but i want to give as much detail as possible. First a little back history on the truck. I have a 2024 Ram 2500 Rebel with the 6.7 diesel with 75k miles on the truck ( I commute daily from the Blue Ridge Mountains to DC daily with constant 75 - 80mph driving for an hour and a half). When I first got the truck and performed my first filter change (oil, air, fuel) Afterwards I started having the Regen too frequent code. First dealer trip we found that I had a FRAM air filter with the glue strips. (I didn't know any better at the time) Changed it with a BPro Auto filter from the dealer. Second time the dealer replaced the DOC, they also found that i had a bad diesel exhaust fluid pump and harness. Changed that, ran a forced Regen, sent me on my way. Oh, they also found that i had an exhaust leak that they created when they replaced the DOC. The truck was in the shop nearly every other weekend for about 3 months. Then I performed my next oil and filter service (oil, air, fuel) and after EXTENDED research on this forum and many YouTube videos I found that I had VERY WELL Made China-knock-off fuel filters that I Purchased off of Walmart's website. (I thought Walmart was safe from the 3rd party China hacks like Amazon and EBay. Unfortunately not). It took me a bit of investigating to notice the subtle variances in the knock-offs. I have since switched to purchasing all of my filters from Geno's Garage. Cannot speak nicer things about those folks! Anyways, I switched back to genuine OEM filters and the Regen frequency issues went away. Cool! Starting to love my truck again. Now here is where it gets interesting. My truck's DPF gauge (I have the all Digital EVIC screen) seems to irregularly go up and I cannot seem to go more than 500 -600 miles without a Regen. If I tow my camper i can get the truck to go closer to the 1000 mile mark, and one time when i towed the trailer to Outer Banks from Front Royal, VA I actually put enough time and miles in, to trip the 24 hour active regen cycle and the message popped up on my EVIC telling me a Regen was in progress. This is only the second time in the history of owning the truck I have seen this message. I have learned that you will ONLY see this message on this truck with this setup for the 24 hour Regen. No other time. I have witnessed my truck go through TONS of Active Regens and I have made certain to be on the screen that shows my DPF filter gauge. It NEVER shows this message while performing an Active or Passive Regen. ONLY when it is performing a 24 hour Regen. Anyways I digress a little on that one. Separate conversation for another day. My EVIC screen lives on the screen with the DPF Gauge and I closely monitor it daily. I can drive the same stretch of road driving the same exact speed and obtain different results. (True definition of insanity) Some days my DPF gauge will not change at all, some days it will jump from 0% to 10%, or 10% to 20% (the DPF gauge only advances in increments of 10). Some days i can drive all the way from my house in the mountains to DC (68 miles) and my DPF gauge never moves from zero, other days it can jump 10 or 20%. I have even seen my truck perform PASIVE Regens and drop 10% here and there. Rarely I have seen the DPF gauge Passively drop the DPF gauge from 30% down to zero. (P.S. I DO know the difference between passive and active regen and can tell the difference in what my truck is doing. The main tell tale is the fuel mileage. It will drop during active as it is dumping added fuel to burn in the DOC. Passive, the exhaust is generating enough heat to burn off the soot without adding fuel). If I am towing my camper everything is right in the world. From starting at 0% on the DPF the gauge will jump up to 10% and then once the truck warms up, it will burn that off and will stay at 0% the entire time i am towing. If i am up at 20 or 30% it will passively Regen itself all the way back to zero and again stay there for the duration of towing.

Now here is where it gets really funny. Lets say I leave DC and my DPF is at 10%... It may jump up to 20% or 30% during the trip. As I hit the highway and i am cruising along at 70 -75 mph, every single bit of data and information that i have read, and have been told by the dealerships tells me that Passive Regeneration will occur at these speeds and my DPF gauge should drop. And mind you I am traveling into the mountains, so its not all flat land driving. But I am not traveling up 15% grades either. I even get my truck up to the 80-85mph range sometimes (Don't tell Johnny-Law on me...) My DPF gauge will not budge... not going up, not going down so I'm at a "stale reading" or one would think. Get home park the truck check the gauge its still at 30% or whatever. Turn truck off, go to bed. Wake up the next morning at the ass-crack of dawn to do it all over again. Start truck, look at the DPF gauge..... It's now sitting at 20%!!??? How, why... Does the DPF fairy come in the middle of the night and clean 10% of my soot load out for me?? This happens very frequently! To me this points out an issue. Soot load does not burn itself off while the truck is off. It just is not scientifically possible. Unless it's sitting in some kind of chemical solution. And this phenomenon is not always a guarantee. There are nights where I can drive the piss out of the truck, or drive it at a constant 70-75mph or even vary the speeds so that I am not droning the truck down the highway and the DPF fairy will not come visit. The percentage will be the same for the entire ride, and the next day upon startup. I have yet to find a way to consistently replicate the "issue". It's near maddening. Now some of you will say change the damn EVIC screen to something else and not pay attention to the DPF gauge, just drive the truck and if there is no CEL don't worry about it. However I'd rather get the added savings on fuel costs by not running Regens every 600 miles. That's a lot of added fuel burning for no reason. Also again there may be an issue somewhere, but not a big enough issue to trip a CEL. 90% of the time also the dealer will not do much or open a Star case unless there is a CEL present. So I am turning to you guys for help or guidance. Do i have a faulty DPF sensor? Possibly something else like a fouled EGR? Did the Chinese knock-off fuel filters foul or mess up the DPF sensor, or EGR? I'm at a loss or is this absolutely normal.... Not to be rude at all. But. Please do not respond about your 2015 truck that does not have any of these issues, its not helpful or relatable to these newer trucks. And yes, I'm aware that going on a diet would solve all these issues. But i don't have $7k plus whatever it would cost to do said diet. I'm looking for advice for people knowledgeable on the 2022+ trucks as they have a lot different tuning and algorithms than anything older. Below is all the pertinent truck specs. So again, please, I'm looking for sound, sane advice. Thanks in advance!!

2024 Ram 2500 Rebel 6.7L Diesel, STOCK, no mods or tunes, only add Power Service Diesel Kleen to every full tank of fuel, 10w30 oil, with all OEM filters from Genos Garage 75,000 miles

 

[Trash Panda]

600 mile regen intervals aren’t great, but they aren’t horrible either.

Considering that you did have a “Regen too frequent issue”, I’d start with checking for boost leaks, and even doing a stationary de-soot. The DPF could just have some residual soot loading that normal use isn’t clearing out, that is making the EVIC read goofy.

 

[Units]

Get home park the truck check the gauge its still at 30% or whatever. Turn truck off, go to bed. Wake up the next morning at the ass-crack of dawn to do it all over again. Start truck, look at the DPF gauge..... It's now sitting at 20%!!??? How, why... Does the DPF fairy come in the middle of the night and clean 10% of my soot load out for me?? This happens very frequently! To me this points out an issue. Soot load does not burn itself off while the truck is off. It just is not scientifically possible. Unless it's sitting in some kind of chemical solution. And this phenomenon is not always a guarantee.

My ‘23 does something very similar. I believe it just depends when the truck takes its reading. As far as I’m concerned it’s normal.

 

[AH64ID]

What are you using to monitor soot based active regens since your truck only shows 24 hour regens on the EVIC?

Miles between regens don't really tell the story, hours do. How many hours between your regens?

 

[securityguy]

600 mile regen intervals aren’t great, but they aren’t horrible either.

Considering that you did have a “Regen too frequent issue”, I’d start with checking for boost leaks, and even doing a stationary de-soot. The DPF could just have some residual soot loading that normal use isn’t clearing out, that is making the EVIC read goofy.

600 mile regens are awesome. Many folks get 300-400 miles/regen. If I get over 500 I think I'm doing great!

 

[PatrickBrooke]

What are you using to monitor soot based active regens since your truck only shows 24 hour regens on the EVIC?

Miles between regens don't really tell the story, hours do. How many hours between your regens?

As I mentioned, this truck is bone stock. so i am only referencing the Stock EVIC DPF gauge that the truck comes with along with the trucks internal odometer/trip log which also clocks the hours. Every time i complete a regen i reset the trip meter which also resets the engine hours meter. Again typically i am getting in the ballpark of 600 miles before Regen, and I'm not exactly sure of the hours as i haven't been paying close attention to that, but i recall seeing roughly half, so about 12 to 15 hours. My hours to miles do corollate to if i were to fully see 24 hours of engine time it would pan out to around 1000 to 1200 miles. but I'm getting half of that. I just went out to my truck also, and i found that the boot clamp that secures the piping to the turbo from the intake was barely finger tight, as well as it looks like there is a wire that has almost rubbed through a charge pipe there as well. So i may have had some charge leaks, that i just solved. We'll see.

 

[AH64ID]

As I mentioned, this truck is bone stock. so i am only referencing the Stock EVIC DPF gauge that the truck comes with along with the trucks internal odometer/trip log which also clocks the hours. Every time i complete a regen i reset the trip meter which also resets the engine hours meter. Again typically i am getting in the ballpark of 600 miles before Regen, and I'm not exactly sure of the hours as i haven't been paying close attention to that, but i recall seeing roughly half, so about 12 to 15 hours. My hours to miles do corollate to if i were to fully see 24 hours of engine time it would pan out to around 1000 to 1200 miles. but I'm getting half of that. I just went out to my truck also, and i found that the boot clamp that secures the piping to the turbo from the intake was barely finger tight, as well as it looks like there is a wire that has almost rubbed through a charge pipe there as well. So i may have had some charge leaks, that i just solved. We'll see.

Without something showing you that you are 100% in an active regen it's very difficult to know exactly what the truck is doing. I would get something like a CTS3 or SGIII so you can be certain of your active regen status.

The truck will sometimes look like it's in an active regen when it's not, and sometimes active regen isn't detectable in the drivers seat.

 

[PatrickBrooke]

No offense, but i disagree. I have been monitoring this truck now for over 50,000 miles since the issue started. I know when it's in Regen. I'm not going to waste my time and money on something that is going to tell me what Already know what the truck is doing. Besides, this is not the point of the post. So I really don't want to continue down this road. Also the fact that i have only seen a 24 hour Regen on the truck twice, which is VERY obvious. As the truck chimes and notifies you and flashes "Vehicle is in a Regeneration Please Keep Driving" or something to that cause on ANY EVIC screen Every minute or so, and requires you to hit "OK" to clear it. Tells me that my perception of when the vehicle is in Active or Passive regeneration is pretty spot on. Not to mention i can feel the truck running differently, the truck idles rougher, has a different tone at acceleration from dead stop, and you can see a substantial decrease in Fuel MPG on the real time mpg display. Lastly looking at the vehicles you have is exactly why i said folks with the newer 2022+ vehicles and knowledge. As what is going on in this truck programming and algorithm wise is totally different that what you have. But thank you for your replies...

 

[AH64ID]

No offense, but i disagree. I have been monitoring this truck now for over 50,000 miles since the issue started. I know when it's in Regen. I'm not going to waste my time and money on something that is going to tell me what Already know what the truck is doing.

I can tell with 100% certainty that you are not fully aware of what the truck is doing, and what you have posted in this thread proves that.

Having driven over 80K miles with these trucks and an external monitor I can tell you that it's not 100% definitive when you're in regen without an external monitor and the full digital dash (the smaller EVIC's are different).

You're not setting yourself up for success trying to track regen's without the ability to see when you are or are not in regen, just how it's works.

Also the fact that i have only seen a 24 hour Regen on the truck twice, which is VERY obvious. As the truck chimes and notifies you and flashes "Vehicle is in a Regeneration Please Keep Driving" or something to that cause on ANY EVIC screen Every minute or so, and requires you to hit "OK" to clear it. Tells me that my perception of when the vehicle is in Active or Passive regeneration is pretty spot on.

You are not understanding 24 hour regens, they don't ding and they don't give you that message. The ding and message you received is because the standard regen (soot or time based) did not complete correctly and the truck wants you to drive more to complete a non-standard regen. Needless to say, your perception of the vehicle is not spot on at all. A true 24 hour regen is just as benign starting as a soot based regen, no active display or ding for the driver.

The full digital dash only notifies the driver for non-standard regens, unlike the partial digital dashes.

So based on what you have posted in this thread you're not able to accurately track or understand your regens, you really need an external monitor if you want to accurately track and understand your regens.

What percentage of the DPF being full showed up with the notification of the regen?

Not to mention i can feel the truck running differently, the truck idles rougher, has a different tone at acceleration from dead stop, and you can see a substantial decrease in Fuel MPG on the real time mpg display.

Yes generally the truck runs different enough to notice, but not always depending on what the drive conditions are. Cruising with a headwind at 80 mph and the indications are going to be very very subtle. Other times they will be overtly obvious, but absoloutly not always. I've had times where I thought the truck was in regen by sound and feel but it wasn't, and other times where I couldn't tell it was in regen aside from the indication on the CTS3.

Lastly looking at the vehicles you have is exactly why i said folks with the newer 2022+ vehicles and knowledge. As what is going on in this truck programming and algorithm wise is totally different that what you have. But thank you for your replies...

Plenty of miles on my 2022 to fully understand what is going on, and to try and help you out (you even listed 2022 in your post) The programming and algorithm is the exact same on your 2024 as my 2022 was, nothing changed until the 2025 model year and even that's not much different.

The fact that you have received the EVIC message twice to continue driving indicates one of few probably things.
- First would be that your duty cycle is insufficient to complete regen's, which doesn't appear to be the case but what were the driving conditions like when the message appeared? i.e. lots of city driving? towing?
- Second would be that there is a bad component within the system that is letting the truck think that there is more soot accumulation than there is. This could be on the intake or exhaust side, unfortunately.
- Lastly, something is causing the engine to make more soot that it should which is actually plugging up the DPF and the indications are all accurate.

Have you tried running Archoil 6400d? It does wonders cleaning a DPF out, which might give some insight into what's actually going on.

 

[PatrickBrooke]

I can tell with 100% certainty that you are not fully aware of what the truck is doing, and what you have posted in this thread proves that.

Having driven over 80K miles with these trucks and an external monitor I can tell you that it's not 100% definitive when you're in regen without an external monitor and the full digital dash (the smaller EVIC's are different).

You're not setting yourself up for success trying to track regen's without the ability to see when you are or are not in regen, just how it's works.



You are not understanding 24 hour regens, they don't ding and they don't give you that message. The ding and message you received is because the standard regen (soot or time based) did not complete correctly and the truck wants you to drive more to complete a non-standard regen. Needless to say, your perception of the vehicle is not spot on at all. A true 24 hour regen is just as benign starting as a soot based regen, no active display or ding for the driver.

The full digital dash only notifies the driver for non-standard regens, unlike the partial digital dashes.

So based on what you have posted in this thread you're not able to accurately track or understand your regens, you really need an external monitor if you want to accurately track and understand your regens.

What percentage of the DPF being full showed up with the notification of the regen?



Yes generally the truck runs different enough to notice, but not always depending on what the drive conditions are. Cruising with a headwind at 80 mph and the indications are going to be very very subtle. Other times they will be overtly obvious, but absoloutly not always. I've had times where I thought the truck was in regen by sound and feel but it wasn't, and other times where I couldn't tell it was in regen aside from the indication on the CTS3.



Plenty of miles on my 2022 to fully understand what is going on, and to try and help you out (you even listed 2022 in your post) The programming and algorithm is the exact same on your 2024 as my 2022 was, nothing changed until the 2025 model year and even that's not much different.

The fact that you have received the EVIC message twice to continue driving indicates one of few probably things.
- First would be that your duty cycle is insufficient to complete regen's, which doesn't appear to be the case but what were the driving conditions like when the message appeared? i.e. lots of city driving? towing?
- Second would be that there is a bad component within the system that is letting the truck think that there is more soot accumulation than there is. This could be on the intake or exhaust side, unfortunately.
- Lastly, something is causing the engine to make more soot that it should which is actually plugging up the DPF and the indications are all accurate.

Have you tried running Archoil 6400d? It does wonders cleaning a DPF out, which might give some insight into what's actually going on.

The 2 times i had the active notification was once after was at the dealership and they performed a stationary Regen on the truck. The second time i had that regen message was after i towed my camper from Front Royal Va to Outer Banks NC. It was a 6 hour tow, the truck passively (or so i think since you tell me i have no clue what my truck is doing) regened back to zero. Stayed at zero the entire haul. It wasn't until i was in the OBX and drove to dinner (hour away) and the truck went into the "Regen in Progress continue driving" the DPF gauge actually worked its way up to 60% before starting to work its way back down to zero. It was also a lot longer of a Regen compared to normal. This one lasted roughly 45 minutes. Almost my whole ride back to the camp. Typically when i see the truck Regen it usually lasts about 20 minutes. And it ALWAYS triggers after the gauge reaches 40%. I also do not shut the vehicle down while it is in a Regeneration. I don't run Archoil i use the Power Service Diesel Kleen treatment as i have found that this has given me the longest duration between regens. I also JUST THIS tank added Power Services new Diesel injector and DPF flush. Before I was using hotshots.
My city driving is minimal. In the 68 miles drive about 10 miles of it is down the mountain from my house to highway which starts out in a neighborhood for about a 2 minute drive, then to a 55mph zone which i drive at about 65mph, then it's all highway from there. From getting off the highway to my work in DC its about maybe 5 minutes of city driving. And your partially right. I have no clue anymore as to what my truck is doing. I'm doing the best i have with the information that i have and has been told to me. This is my first Diesel, and it honestly started out as a nightmare. It's not throwing codes, but it also seems to still be frequent enough for me to raise an eyebrow. I see some people say they NEVER have active regens and only get the 24 hour regens, some people say they only get about 600 miles before Regen, others say 1000 miles. But 1000 miles to me adds up to a 24 hour regen. Its the inconsistencies regardless of how I'm tracking the Regen processes that is tipping me off to something underlying. Like i mentioned earlier, I went down to my truck to look at the intake boot from the air filter to the turbo and i noticed that that band clamp was basically finger tight attaching it to the front of the turbo. I also found that there is a wire loom between that intake hose and one of the charge hoses coming off of the turbo and it is starting to rub a flat spot in the hose. I'm planning on zip tying that up so it doesn't rub as i found that this is also a known issue. I am agreeing 100% with you that I think that there is a bad component somewhere. My engineering brain points to a sensor, like the DPF sensor. In my head if that is faulty and sending the wrong information to the cpu the whole thing is going to be out of sorts and behave erratically. Also if you would like to pm me directly I'm cool with that as well.

 

[Trash Panda]

Sounds like you got it all figured out and don’t need anyone else’s input.

Good luck.

 

[AH64ID]

The 2 times i had the active notification was once after was at the dealership and they performed a stationary Regen on the truck.

Sounds like the stationary regen didn't complete properly, as that should reset the 24 hour clock and sufficiently clean the DPF and avoid that message.

To be honest the only stationary regen I ever did on my 2022 was lackluster, short and ineffective. Something changed on the stationary regen strategy from my 2018 which was very effective.

Why were they completing a stationary regen?

The second time i had that regen message was after i towed my camper from Front Royal Va to Outer Banks NC. It was a 6 hour tow, the truck passively (or so i think since you tell me i have no clue what my truck is doing) regened back to zero. Stayed at zero the entire haul. It wasn't until i was in the OBX and drove to dinner (hour away) and the truck went into the "Regen in Progress continue driving" the DPF gauge actually worked its way up to 60% before starting to work its way back down to zero. It was also a lot longer of a Regen compared to normal. This one lasted roughly 45 minutes. Almost my whole ride back to the camp. Typically when i see the truck Regen it usually lasts about 20 minutes. And it ALWAYS triggers after the gauge reaches 40%. I also do not shut the vehicle down while it is in a Regeneration.

While towing it's much more difficult to detect an active regen without an external monitor. Passive regen towing is pretty good and should keep you at 0% on the EVIC DPF gauge but that alone won't keep you from triggering a time based regen.

The reason you got the continue driving message is because the DPF gauge was over ~45%, which is the level that normally triggers a soot based regen, and the truck likely wasn't able to complete a successful regen previously. It could also be a bad sensor that erroneously showed the DPF being full too rapidly to control, which I am not sure of considering it's not showing any issues while towing.

Yes, soot based regens are much longer than time based so I would assume non-standard regens are even longer.

I don't run Archoil i use the Power Service Diesel Kleen treatment as i have found that this has given me the longest duration between regens. I also JUST THIS tank added Power Services new Diesel injector and DPF flush. Before I was using hotshots.

Try the Archoil 6400d, it's not an every tank additive and nothing else cleans the DPF like it does...nothing. My DPF registered cleaner after a tank of 6400d without towing on the interstate that it did brand new, it's good stuff.

The two times I had 6400d in the tank for an active regen left the DPF soot accumulation at 0.4% and 0.0% afterwards. The lowest I ever saw just from towing before/during an active regen was 2.0% with most readings being 5-10% towing and 8-20% not-towing.

My city driving is minimal. In the 68 miles drive about 10 miles of it is down the mountain from my house to highway which starts out in a neighborhood for about a 2 minute drive, then to a 55mph zone which i drive at about 65mph, then it's all highway from there. From getting off the highway to my work in DC its about maybe 5 minutes of city driving. And your partially right. I have no clue anymore as to what my truck is doing. I'm doing the best i have with the information that i have and has been told to me.

That type of driving should allow you to get to 24 hour regens. Since a lot of your driving is steady state I'll throw this rule of thumb out there that worked well for me and understanding my trucks ability to passive regen empty.

At 22+ mpg there isn't any passive regen, 18-22 mpg is more of a net neutral, and anything less than 18 mpg will have continuous passive regen. Below 12 mpg and you're cleaning it failry quickly.

An external monitor with the ability to monitor EGT3 is far more accurate, but those steady state mpg numbers will give a pretty good idea.

This is my first Diesel, and it honestly started out as a nightmare. It's not throwing codes, but it also seems to still be frequent enough for me to raise an eyebrow. I see some people say they NEVER have active regens and only get the 24 hour regens, some people say they only get about 600 miles before Regen, others say 1000 miles. But 1000 miles to me adds up to a 24 hour regen. Its the inconsistencies regardless of how I'm tracking the Regen processes that is tipping me off to something underlying.

In around 100K miles of driving a Cummins with a DPF my dad has never noticed a single active regen on his pickup, yet I pick up on them in his truck pretty easy... point being people have different abilities, or desirers, to notice an active regen so that needs to be taken into consideration.

Regen's aren't based on miles they are based on hours, I would start tracking that closer if you decide to get an external monitor.

The biggest inconsistency you're likely facing is not knowing when you're truly in regen. Even just an occasional misdiagnosis of an active regen throws the whole tracking system off.

Like i mentioned earlier, I went down to my truck to look at the intake boot from the air filter to the turbo and i noticed that that band clamp was basically finger tight attaching it to the front of the turbo. I also found that there is a wire loom between that intake hose and one of the charge hoses coming off of the turbo and it is starting to rub a flat spot in the hose. I'm planning on zip tying that up so it doesn't rub as i found that this is also a known issue. I am agreeing 100% with you that I think that there is a bad component somewhere. My engineering brain points to a sensor, like the DPF sensor. In my head if that is faulty and sending the wrong information to the cpu the whole thing is going to be out of sorts and behave erratically. Also if you would like to pm me directly I'm cool with that as well.

Definitely tighten that hose clamp, these motors are way too picky about airflow for the DPF calculations.

You're more likely to have an airflow sensor issue becuase the issue doesn't present when towing, only at reduced airflow.... but these things don't also work logically all the time.

Pressure sensors are checked when you power the truck on, so if you had one with a funky reading it would throw a CEL... an airflow sensor on the other hand isn't quite as easy to diagnose.

 

[Brutal_HO]

As I mentioned, this truck is bone stock. so i am only referencing the Stock EVIC DPF gauge that the truck comes with along with the trucks internal odometer/trip log which also clocks the hours. Every time i complete a regen i reset the trip meter which also resets the engine hours meter. Again typically i am getting in the ballpark of 600 miles before Regen, and I'm not exactly sure of the hours as i haven't been paying close attention to that, but i recall seeing roughly half, so about 12 to 15 hours. My hours to miles do corollate to if i were to fully see 24 hours of engine time it would pan out to around 1000 to 1200 miles. but I'm getting half of that. I just went out to my truck also, and i found that the boot clamp that secures the piping to the turbo from the intake was barely finger tight, as well as it looks like there is a wire that has almost rubbed through a charge pipe there as well. So i may have had some charge leaks, that i just solved. We'll see.

I don't mean to pile on, and know that you're getting honest and EXPERT advice regarding how regen works and it would serve you well to heed that advice (I think you've already figured that out), but you are not resetting the engine hour in the PCM. You're only resetting trip counters.

If you find the page that has idle, engine, and total hours and pay more attention to that when you think you're experiencing regen, that might help.

Having an external monitor is cheap insurance, especially if you're concerned enough about the regen frequency. If you get an OBDLink MX+, you could monitor the same parameters from a phone or tablet using the app AND be part way to having a tool that can be used to do other things like read and reset codes, do your own stationary regen (if truly needed), program key fobs, make alterations to the BCM for options and settings, etc. You'd also need a security bypass cable and JScan for that (other threads here).

 

[PatrickBrooke]

I don't mean to pile on, and know that you're getting honest and EXPERT advice regarding how regen works and it would serve you well to heed that advice (I think you've already figured that out), but you are not resetting the engine hour in the PCM. You're only resetting trip counters.

If you find the page that has idle, engine, and total hours and pay more attention to that when you think you're experiencing regen, that might help.

Having an external monitor is cheap insurance, especially if you're concerned enough about the regen frequency. If you get an OBDLink MX+, you could monitor the same parameters from a phone or tablet using the app AND be part way to having a tool that can be used to do other things like read and reset codes, do your own stationary regen (if truly needed), program key fobs, make alterations to the BCM for options and settings, etc. You'd also need a security bypass cable and JScan for that (other threads here).

Hey Brutal. You've definitely helped me out in the past and i have read a lot of your posts on similar stuff. I am aware that i am resetting just the trip meter. But I thought resetting that still gave an accurate engine time hours. I pm'd AH64ID about doing an external monitor like the Insite CTS 3. I'm certainly willing to take sound advice, i just don't want to spend a ton of money chasing rabbit holes or purchasing something and someone tells me that's wrong and to go another route. I'm also not getting any CELs so I may very well be chasing my tail on a non-issue. but my gut tells me otherwise. But I can also certainly track engine hours using the other page.

 

[56ram2500]

Hey Brutal. You've definitely helped me out in the past and i have read a lot of your posts on similar stuff. I am aware that i am resetting just the trip meter. But I thought resetting that still gave an accurate engine time hours. I pm'd AH64ID about doing an external monitor like the Insite CTS 3. I'm certainly willing to take sound advice, i just don't want to spend a ton of money chasing rabbit holes or purchasing something and someone tells me that's wrong and to go another route. I'm also not getting any CELs so I may very well be chasing my tail on a non-issue. but my gut tells me otherwise. But I can also certainly track engine hours using the other page.

Below is a photo showing the miles and hours at the start of my last 24 hr regen in my 2022, since I started using Archoil fuel additive in every tank I now get constant 24 hour regens, the longest time between regens was 24.03.33. My second photo show that I have gone as few as 632.9 miles between 24 hour regens... Also before I started using Archoil I was lucky if I got 350 miles and a sfew as 250 miles before a soot based regen accrued, the constant soot regens why I searched out what may help with DPF regens and in my search found Archoil additives....

As AH64ID stated I would at least try the Archoil 6400D system cleaner on a very long trip, if possible with a load of 4K or more to get as much DPF cleaning while the system is hot... BTW I have also had a well liked Service manager in my area state ( I'm sure he was quoting FCA/Ram bull ****e) that if you can get 400-450 miles between a regens the system is working normal... Good Luck....

 

[securityguy]

I can attest that using AR6500 at every tank and AR6400-D every 3-5K miles is the way to go. Using it religiously and this stuff is the real deal!

www.archoil.com