Carli Trackbar Adjustment - Wonky Shifted Axle & Thrust Angle

[R.J.]

This is eating at me a bit lol.

Measuring the trackbar accurately is wonky itself - IDK + or - 1/16" or an 1/8" (At worst). 39 1/8" total if you have the 3" coil springs.

The axle is clearly biased to the left (Drivers Side) at static height perhaps a good 1/2" to maybe 1" eyeballin . I notice it cause I'm looking for it, but most wouldn't even give it a second thought.. I haven't taken any official measurements so it's just based off of line of site down the sides of the truck.

I was thinking of pulling the trackbar again to double check my measurements. I mean the truck aligned fine with caster and toe, but I'm not sure if the machine would measure axles that are side stepped like this? IDK, if the bar needs to be readjusted, the thought of fighting the red Loctite is giving me anxiety. Torch and big ass wrench? haha.

The other "issue" is the thrust angle measured .12 degrees at the rear axle. I've done the Carli Add a Packs here so not sure if I should let this ride or make an effort to loosen u Bolts, shift it around a bit, and then retorque.

IDK, Am I overthinking this?

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Measuring the track bar shouldn’t be wonky.

Measure it in a straight line, eye to eye. The bends are irrelevant.

If you have a 3” lift, adjustable track bar, it should be ~3/4” longer than the factory trackbar, according to my quick calculations. You may have to do some guess and check because you don’t always get exactly 3” of lift with 3” springs.

You will need to adjust your drag link the same amount.

FYI, I’ve never needed heat to get Red loctite loose.

The rear end you should wait until you get the front fixed and then take some good measurements and square it up if it needs it.

Hope this helps.

 

[Dwilly]

Exactly. Just make it a bit longer than the factory one and go from there. Then research the thuren specs and get them put on the truck. All will be perfect.

 

[R.J.]

Measuring the track bar shouldn’t be wonky.

Measure it in a straight line, eye to eye. The bends are irrelevant.

If you have a 3” lift, adjustable track bar, it should be ~3/4” longer than the factory trackbar, according to my quick calculations. You may have to do some guess and check because you don’t always get exactly 3” of lift with 3” springs.

You will need to adjust your drag link the same amount.

FYI, I’ve never needed heat to get Red loctite loose.

The rear end you should wait until you get the front fixed and then take some good measurements and square it up if it needs it.

Hope this helps.

I measured by myself late at night and with my arms extended and was reading at a slight angle. In hindsight, I should have someone hold the tape measure so I could get a good overview of the hole in relation to the increments. Whatever, I'll take it out, remeasure, and adjust if needed since it's pretty easy. Since the axle is shifted left, I should expect the measurement to be slightly longer?

I'm not so sure it's a true 3" either. I didn't take before and after measurements.

My old F350 had a trackbar with leaf springs in the front. The instructions were to drive the truck on level ground , adjust trackbar holes to line up with frame and axle mounts, tighten it up. I'm assuming the "centering" was dictated by the leaf spring mount unlike the Ram with coils.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

I measured by myself late at night and with my arms extended and was reading at a slight angle. In hindsight, I should have someone hold the tape measure so I could get a good overview of the hole in relation to the increments. Whatever, I'll take it out, remeasure, and adjust if needed since it's pretty easy. Since the axle is shifted left, I should expect the measurement to be slightly longer?

I'm not so sure it's a true 3" either. I didn't take before and after measurements.

My old F350 had a trackbar with leaf springs in the front. The instructions were to drive the truck on level ground , adjust trackbar holes to line up with frame and axle mounts, tighten it up. I'm assuming the "centering" was dictated by the leaf spring mount unlike the Ram with coils.

If your axle is shifted left, with the driver side tire further outboard, then your trackbar is too short.

I would take it out, make it a little longer, and reinstall it. Don’t get caught up in the actual measurements, just adjust it and check it until it’s correct.

Having someone work the wheel will help with reinstallation and lining up the holes. When they move the wheel without the track bar installed, it will shift the whole truck a little, moving the holes for you. Or you can use ratchet straps if you’re working alone

 

[R.J.]

If your axle is shifted left, with the driver side tire further outboard, then your trackbar is too short.

I would take it out, make it a little longer, and reinstall it. Don’t get caught up in the actual measurements, just adjust it and check it until it’s correct.

Having someone work the wheel will help with reinstallation and lining up the holes. When they move the wheel without the track bar installed, it will shift the whole truck a little, moving the holes for you. Or you can use ratchet straps if you’re working alone

Much Appreciated. Lots of good points.

 

[Brewbud]

If it is at 39-1/8" it is correct for a Carli 3" suspension. The axle moves side to side as you cycle. You have more travel now. 39-1/8" is the sweet spot so you don't shift too much and rub.

 

[R.J.]

If it is at 39-1/8" it is correct for a Carli 3" suspension. The axle moves side to side as you cycle. You have more travel now. 39-1/8" is the sweet spot so you don't shift too much and rub.

Gonna check either way, but understand that the Carli provided measurement is what is recommended (What I will more than likely end up leaving it at). I guess my question is, if it is indeed adjusted at the Carli recommended length is the static shift of the axle considered A-OK? The only way to really know is to like plumb bob from the fender and measure at the tire or something.

You could adjust the trackbar to have the axle more even in between both fenders, but would that cause issues during the full range of motion with the new ride height? In other words, the Carli measurement is what it is to have the axle perform under all conditions.

 

[jadmt]

i agree I have used red lock tite for years and never once needed anything but a wrench/breaker bar. never have used heat. if the thrust angle is within specs I would not worry about it that said I do not what thrust able specs on these are but .12* seems like it would be in spec. also 1/2" axle shift is not much and it changes on every bump you go over constantly changing. I would go flex it out and turn wheels to the max ranges and see if you rub anywhere.

 

[RPS1030]

Gonna check either way, but understand that the Carli provided measurement is what is recommended (What I will more than likely end up leaving it at). I guess my question is, if it is indeed adjusted at the Carli recommended length is the static shift of the axle considered A-OK? The only way to really know is to like plumb bob from the fender and measure at the tire or something.

You could adjust the trackbar to have the axle more even in between both fenders, but would that cause issues during the full range of motion with the new ride height? In other words, the Carli measurement is what it is to have the axle perform under all conditions.

I didn’t go back and look yet, but Thuren has a “max” length in their directions. Going too long, can allow axle parts to hit frame parts.

So at a given max length that prevents interference thru full travel, there will be a ideal/max lift height where the axle is centered at ride height. Going higher will pull it off center. If lower, the trackbar could be shortened.

 

[AnthonyD1978]

FWIW my truck shows maybe an extra 1/2" on the driver's side too using the Carli recommended measurement with the PIntop kit. Nothing you would notice unless that's what you're specifically looking for. I'm not going to worry about it. Maybe I would adjust it if I ever have to take it off again for some reason. In fact, I didn't notice it until I read your post and went out looked at the front end.

If you can't break the red loctite by hand you can boil a pot of water and then let the joint sit in the boiling water for ~15 minutes. I do it with muzzle devices when using Rocksett.

 

[R.J.]

Took it out and checked. It was off maybe a 1/16th so redid it to precisely 39-1/8" (Red Loctite was a non-issue probably cause the wrenches used are big).



There is a bit of slop in the trackbar mounting so rachet strapped the axle back toward the right side and torqued.



It's still about 1/2" biased toward the left driver side instead of the 5/8s - 3/4" it was before, but I'm done and here it will stay.

As a side note, I run 37 x 12.50 and aside from some minor plastic trimming, I've not had any rub issues.

 

[AnthonyD1978]

Glad you got it sorted. I wouldn't be surprised if trucks come from the factory with it off-center too.
You shouldn't have to use a ratchet strap if the truck is on the ground and you just move the steering wheel to align the bar with the bracket holes.