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Brake gain

AFF

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Yellowknife, NT, CA
Hi, hooked our camper up to the 2500 for the first time today. I was setting up the trailer brakes a bit. On our 1500 silverado the brake gain was set at about 5 but with the 2500 I had it set for 8 and it still doesn't seem enough. I know all trucks/trailers aren't the same but does that sound right? What's your gain set at for towing your rigs for example?
 
Hi, hooked our camper up to the 2500 for the first time today. I was setting up the trailer brakes a bit. On our 1500 silverado the brake gain was set at about 5 but with the 2500 I had it set for 8 and it still doesn't seem enough. I know all trucks/trailers aren't the same but does that sound right? What's your gain set at for towing your rigs for example?

In your setup, did you choose Light or Heavy Electric? I was told if you were pulling an empty trailer or a Light Electric use Light Electric, otherwise use Heavy Electric. With Heavy Electric you get more breaking but more wheel locking in an emergency panic stop if you set your gain to High.

P.S. Please excuse the ghost in the screen. LOL.

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Oh, I didn't even notice there were those settings. I only thought it was the +/- gain buttons. I'll have to go back and re-check this. Camper weighs about 8k so I guess heavy braking? On my 1500 I had the brakes set up to just short of lockup when I used the brake slider. Thanks.
 
Oh, I didn't even notice there were those settings. I only thought it was the +/- gain buttons. I'll have to go back and re-check this. Camper weighs about 8k so I guess heavy braking? On my 1500 I had the brakes set up to just short of lockup when I used the brake slider. Thanks.

Each truck and trailer is different, I would go with Heavy Electric and then make adjustments from there if it were me.
 
Each truck and trailer is different, I would go with Heavy Electric and then make adjustments from there if it were me.
any knowledge on the electric over hydrolic if you only have electric. I currently set mine on heavy electric, but I've also read that guys seem to think they can feal a difference on there electric brakes reaction when set on electric over hyd
 
any knowledge on the electric over hydrolic if you only have electric. I currently set mine on heavy electric, but I've also read that guys seem to think they can feal a difference on there electric brakes reaction when set on electric over hyd

I guess that is possible. I have no idea about the differences between the both as far as how they are programmed between Electric or Electric over Hydraulic.. I am a little familiar with the trailer side of the brakes but not on the truck.
 
The Ram integrated brake controller has been the subject of debate for a while. It's proportional to service brake application, which is a good thing, but, from what I recall from folks who put a lot of research time in, there is a programming quirk... ahem, "feature"... that limits output voltage at low speeds. What this translates to is even if you set your brakes up for perfect braking while going down the road, when you are in town, or approaching a traffic light you can suddenly feel like the trailer is pushing you through the intersection, even if you work the trolley brake manually.
 
The Ram integrated brake controller has been the subject of debate for a while. It's proportional to service brake application, which is a good thing, but, from what I recall from folks who put a lot of research time in, there is a programming quirk... ahem, "feature"... that limits output voltage at low speeds. What this translates to is even if you set your brakes up for perfect braking while going down the road, when you are in town, or approaching a traffic light you can suddenly feel like the trailer is pushing you through the intersection, even if you work the trolley brake manually.
Ughhh, that's not very good and reassuring. Nothing more scary for a truck driver than that sliding feeling
 
My trailer only weighs 7k, but I haven’t had that feeling at all. Once I get it dialed in where I want it it feels invisible.
My trade was a16 2500 and my trailer was almost double that at 13k. All that being said there is a big difference between 13,000 and 26,000 of trailer weight when hauling with a pick up truck, we might be up there with commercial weight but these things are not going to react to loads like that , like a commercial vehicle would. There's a reason why allot of states require a special license for loads over 26k. Special training should be required. That's like these little old men out there driving a 45' coach pulling a 20' truck as a toad. Anyone can do it, but should they be allowed to with out special training. As a professional truck driver, my 2 cents worth is ,no, but thats my opinion. I know this was straying a little on this topic, i call that expansion. I'm sure somebody will put me in my place. All that being said, i admit, I'm that guy in the lt ln running 80 mph with my fiver house passing everyone in site. Also to note as a former truck driver, you can't look your standard distance ahead, that won t cut it. You have to look a minimum of 8 seconds ahead, have a huge following distance and have reflexes like a cheetah. The feeling of not being able to stop is a scary one. 9 x out of 10 it's the aggressiveness at wich we drive vs faulty equipment. Ok, I'm done now. Let the insults fly
 
Best thing I ever did to my trailer was do a disc brake conversion . My trailer weighs about 14 loaded . The difference between disc and electric on trailers over 12000 is day and nite . I guarantee that two trucks same weight same trailer weight you will see a huge difference in stopping distance. Other positives are no electrical wires on the axles a much simpler design your bearings run in a cooler . I have had them on my 5th wheel for 5 yrs with thousands of miles of travel . Never a problem. My setting is either 4.5 to 5 never more .
 
Best thing I ever did to my trailer was do a disc brake conversion . My trailer weighs about 14 loaded . The difference between disc and electric on trailers over 12000 is day and nite . I guarantee that two trucks same weight same trailer weight you will see a huge difference in stopping distance. Other positives are no electrical wires on the axles a much simpler design your bearings run in a cooler . I have had them on my 5th wheel for 5 yrs with thousands of miles of travel . Never a problem. My setting is either 4.5 to 5 never more .
Thats exactly right. When we order our 48 ft luxe fiver, were going to spring for the pkg that comes with full body paint and disk brakes for $13,000 extra. Now those babies will stop.
 
Best thing I ever did to my trailer was do a disc brake conversion . My trailer weighs about 14 loaded . The difference between disc and electric on trailers over 12000 is day and nite . I guarantee that two trucks same weight same trailer weight you will see a huge difference in stopping distance. Other positives are no electrical wires on the axles a much simpler design your bearings run in a cooler . I have had them on my 5th wheel for 5 yrs with thousands of miles of travel . Never a problem. My setting is either 4.5 to 5 never more .
Yep. Best thing I ever did as well. I ordered my new gooseneck with electric over hydraulic brakes and I can't believe I didn't do it sooner. We're dragging around 20K all the time behind our trucks and it is so much safer.
 
I have mine set on heavy electric, no issues. I started with light electric, had it up at level 9 ish, still no issues, but, i think I am running around a 4 on heavy. My fiver is about 14k loaded up.
 
I have mine set on heavy electric, no issues. I started with light electric, had it up at level 9 ish, still no issues, but, i think I am running around a 4 on heavy. My fiver is about 14k loaded up.
wow, I've got mine on heavy electric with a 13k fiver and got it set on the maximum of 10. Its never been close to locking up a wheel, even at hard breaking events, I don't know how you do it on 4.
 
wow, I've got mine on heavy electric with a 13k fiver and got it set on the maximum of 10. Its never been close to locking up a wheel, even at hard breaking events, I don't know how you do it on 4.

If you have already been pulling your trailer wit another vehicle, the Following probably will not apply. If you have a new Trailer or just Replaced your brakes then the following May apply. I myself had this problem with a trailer when I had the Axles and Brakes upgraded. No one informed me of the following even the company that did the upgrade after several times trying to figure out what was wrong with my trailer brakes not stopping/or holding the trailer. I found out most of the information below from Dexter and followed their procedure. Now my trailer brakes work a lot better. Next time I will probably go with Disc Brakes on the trailer......

According to a couple of places around my neck of the woods and Dexter tell me after you initial burnish in you brakes when new, you should be able to manually activate your brakes or pull the emergency break away pin on the cable and your trailer brakes should hold your setup without rolling when in drive at idle without your foot brakes applies. If it does pull your trailer with the break away pin pulled, you have a brake issue on your trailer... Check and compare the trailer controller on your dash when in Drive just sitting there without you foot brakes applied and then compare it to the Break Away Controller. That way you can do an easy brake inspection to see of they can activate. Something in the back of my mind keeps telling me that your Trailer brakes by them selves should hold you setup while in gear without applying your truck brake petal. I do know when ever I was stopped in my big truck I had to do this with my trolley brakes in order to pass Inspection.

If your trailer is empty like a flat bed or utility trailer you could lock up one of more wheels when breaking if your controller is set to high.. The heavier you have it loaded the harder it is.

Here is a link to what Dexter Recommends.
 
If you have already been pulling your trailer wit another vehicle, the Following probably will not apply. If you have a new Trailer or just Replaced your brakes then the following May apply. I myself had this problem with a trailer when I had the Axles and Brakes upgraded. No one informed me of the following even the company that did the upgrade after several times trying to figure out what was wrong with my trailer brakes not stopping/or holding the trailer. I found out most of the information below from Dexter and followed their procedure. Now my trailer brakes work a lot better. Next time I will probably go with Disc Brakes on the trailer......

According to a couple of places around my neck of the woods and Dexter tell me after you initial burnish in you brakes when new, you should be able to manually activate your brakes or pull the emergency break away pin on the cable and your trailer brakes should hold your setup without rolling when in drive at idle without your foot brakes applies. If it does pull your trailer with the break away pin pulled, you have a brake issue on your trailer... Check and compare the trailer controller on your dash when in Drive just sitting there without you foot brakes applied and then compare it to the Break Away Controller. That way you can do an easy brake inspection to see of they can activate. Something in the back of my mind keeps telling me that your Trailer brakes by them selves should hold you setup while in gear without applying your truck brake petal. I do know when ever I was stopped in my big truck I had to do this with my trolley brakes in order to pass Inspection.

If your trailer is empty like a flat bed or utility trailer you could lock up one of more wheels when breaking if your controller is set to high.. The heavier you have it loaded the harder it is.

Here is a link to what Dexter Recommends.
Good point on towing a trailer with a previous vehicle especially one that was less capable than your current model. Maybe I've got the drums glazed over a bit from all that high spd travel . It stops just fine in this truck but by no means is it what i would of suspected, hence the 10 setting. My commercial vehicle was the same, had to pass trolly brake inspection or you were dead in the water. Now a couple things. When in a campground before leaving to a new location, while going 15 mph ill use the hand brake for the trailer only a few times to make sure it's working and to Nock off the rust from sitting. It will slow the vehicle but not stop it. I figured that was because of the 410 gear and big aisin tq. Now my last 2500 6.7 rfe would stop on this brake check. I was not aware of the pulling the emergency breakaway cable to check movability. I never did this because I thought that it was a one time brake box pull/set only and I didn't know that you could push the valve back in on the brake box. Now going forward, when i get the big dog, 48' , 25,999 gvwr fiver, i will be getting the disc brake pkg on all 3 axles, no question.
 
Dang, when you get that big dog post some pics. That has got to be a beast!
Probably about 18 months out, but it's going to be a luxe 48fb fiver toy hauler with 2 patios, that's the dream machine anyway. If I've not learned anything, its that life can get on the way and change your plans. But I've got the truck now, and that's half the battle, fo hopefully that's a good sign of things to come.
 
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