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Big Brake upgrade.

Jeeptree2112

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I have a 2021 mega cab hemi with ram boxes, so quite heavy to begin with. I tow up and down the east coast Appalachian grades at about 8% and once in a while, my brakes heat up and my steering wheel vibrates and I have to pull over and let them cool.

Being that I have a disadvantage of no engine brake like the Cummins guys… Has anybody done anything to upgrade their brakes to the PowerStops or the SSBC’s
 
Thanks for the feedback. Those are working flawlessly on my Airstream. Do a squeeze test frequently before driving off. Increased to 5.5 or 6 going down 5 mile 8% grades. This only happened twice so it’s definitely not a common thing.
 
Airstream Weighs loaded just shy of 10k.
Hitch weight 1150 round up to 1200 with Rock tamer/ blue ox anti sway set up.

Payload of Ram 2400

Ram boxes full of tools, me, wife, dog, E bikes, firewood, still sitting less than 1900lb gross.
 
I towed all over the mountain west with a 30’ Airstream and a Hemi and never had any issues with brake fade. I scaled it at about 18k. The Hemi definitely has plenty of engine braking, even if not as much as a diesel exhaust brake.

I hate to ask a stupid question, but since you didn’t mention it, you are using the gear limiter, right?
 
I towed all over the mountain west with a 30’ Airstream and a Hemi and never had any issues with brake fade. I scaled it at about 18k. The Hemi definitely has plenty of engine braking, even if not as much as a diesel exhaust brake.

I hate to ask a stupid question, but since you didn’t mention it, you are using the gear limiter, right?
Totally not a stupid question. You are the person I need to hear from. Tell me how you use your gear limiter. I had a crash course after the rotor overheating issue in WV. I need to be more aggressive with the limiter. Please educate.
 
In my 1500 i owned prior to my 3500 i put around 15k miles towing my 32rli cougar. Around the same weight as your airstream. Any big changes in elevation i would use the gear limiter buttons and downshift the truck to aid in slowing down. Ended up trading the truck in at 70k miles and the pads were still at 50%. Did alot of trips from Connecticut to Florida
 
Totally not a stupid question. You are the person I need to hear from. Tell me how you use your gear limiter. I had a crash course after the rotor overheating issue in WV. I need to be more aggressive with the limiter. Please educate.
The official name is "Electronic Range Select". It's controlled using the + and - buttons on the lower right of the steering wheel. Whatever gear you select is the highest one it will shift into. by forcing the transmission to a lower gear the engine is able to put more resistance against the load.

If I'm going downhill I'll downshift as far as necessary to hold the speed I want. If the engine braking alone isn't enough to hold speed you should brake in bursts: slow down hard (not lock up the brakes, just a little more than normal) with the brakes to below the speed you want, then let off the brakes for a bit. Repeat this as needed. This allows the brakes to cool, whereas constant pressure on them will cause them to overheat. In big trucks they teach the "5-3 Method". 5-3 is when you determine your safe speed, brake with enough pressure where you're only applying constant pressure for 3 seconds to bring you 5 mph below your safe speed. Wait for your truck to reach that safe speed again, rinse and repeat the 5-3 method.

Screenshot 2025-02-27 at 11.43.46.png
 
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The official name is "Electronic Range Select". It's controlled using the + and - buttons on the lower right of the steering wheel. Whatever gear you select is the highest one it will shift into. by forcing the transmission to a lower gear the engine is able to put more resistance against the load.

If I'm going downhill I'll downshift as far as necessary to hold the speed I want. If the engine braking alone isn't enough to hold speed you should brake in bursts: slow down hard (not lock up the brakes, just a little more than normal) with the brakes to below the speed you want, then let off the brakes for a bit. Repeat this as needed. This allows the brakes to cool, whereas constant pressure on them will cause them to overheat. In big trucks they teach the "5-3 Method". 5-3 is when you determine your safe speed, brake with enough pressure where you're only applying constant pressure for 3 seconds to bring you 5 mph below your safe speed. Wait for your truck to reach that safe speed again, rinse and repeat the 5-3 method.

View attachment 82949
This is priceless information. This is what I actually began to do as I was traveling from Pittsburgh to South Carolina through the mountains of West Virginia with those steep Appalachian grades, nothing compared to out west though. I really appreciate that feedback, that makes me feel so much better because I know in another year I’m gonna be buying a new Ram and I really didn’t think I needed a diesel because this is my daily driver and the 2500 with the five link suspension is wonderful to drive daily. On my way to Florida in June, This is exactly how I’m going to use the brake method and gear limiter as you described. If I have no shake and shimmy on my steering wheel/ hot rotor, I know that I know how to drive a Hemi more properly now. And therefore save myself about $12,000 upfront next year lol. I chose the Hemi just because the Cummins destroys your payload in a 2500 so again thanks a lot!!!!
 
In my 1500 i owned prior to my 3500 i put around 15k miles towing my 32rli cougar. Around the same weight as your airstream. Any big changes in elevation i would use the gear limiter buttons and downshift the truck to aid in slowing down. Ended up trading the truck in at 70k miles and the pads were still at 50%. Did alot of trips from Connecticut to Florida
Awesome. I will definitely get more aggressive with my gear limiter. I appreciate the feedback.
 
This is priceless information. This is what I actually began to do as I was traveling from Pittsburgh to South Carolina through the mountains of West Virginia with those steep Appalachian grades, nothing compared to out west though. I really appreciate that feedback, that makes me feel so much better because I know in another year I’m gonna be buying a new Ram and I really didn’t think I needed a diesel because this is my daily driver and the 2500 with the five link suspension is wonderful to drive daily. On my way to Florida in June, This is exactly how I’m going to use the brake method and gear limiter as you described. If I have no shake and shimmy on my steering wheel/ hot rotor, I know that I know how to drive a Hemi more properly now. And therefore save myself about $12,000 upfront next year lol. I chose the Hemi just because the Cummins destroys your payload in a 2500 so again thanks a lot!!!!
Happy to help. Sadly no one teaches you these things when you buy a truck or a trailer, and if you don't know that you should ask then you don't know.
 
I installed the Powerstop Z36 kit (pads and rotors) on my truck. Nice improvement to braking performance, but not pedal feel. It's still a mushy mess. Also a lot less brake dust too.
 
I installed the Powerstop Z36 kit (pads and rotors) on my truck. Nice improvement to braking performance, but not pedal feel. It's still a mushy mess. Also a lot less brake dust too.

Did the Z36 kit come with drilled and slotted rotors?


Sent from me
 
The official name is "Electronic Range Select". It's controlled using the + and - buttons on the lower right of the steering wheel. Whatever gear you select is the highest one it will shift into. by forcing the transmission to a lower gear the engine is able to put more resistance against the load.

If I'm going downhill I'll downshift as far as necessary to hold the speed I want. If the engine braking alone isn't enough to hold speed you should brake in bursts: slow down hard (not lock up the brakes, just a little more than normal) with the brakes to below the speed you want, then let off the brakes for a bit. Repeat this as needed. This allows the brakes to cool, whereas constant pressure on them will cause them to overheat. In big trucks they teach the "5-3 Method". 5-3 is when you determine your safe speed, brake with enough pressure where you're only applying constant pressure for 3 seconds to bring you 5 mph below your safe speed. Wait for your truck to reach that safe speed again, rinse and repeat the 5-3 method.

Sage advice.

You have to give the engine braking a chance by scrubbing off speed, maintain a low gear, and using the "stab" method after the speed builds back up (inevitable).

While it was a diesel pull, I hauled my jetski's and boat around the mountain west behind my 04.5 5.9L without an exhaust brake for years. It can be done, it's just so much more carefree and effortless with the EB.
 
Did the Z36 kit come with drilled and slotted rotors?


Sent from me
Yeah. I have the same kit on our Gladiator, and their big brake kit (rotors, calipers, pads) on our '12 JKR. Also had them on my last two 1500's.
 
Yeah. I have the same kit on our Gladiator, and their big brake kit (rotors, calipers, pads) on our '12 JKR. Also had them on my last two 1500's.

Nice. I have those on my Legacy(now driven by my daughter). I went with the Z26 pads and geomet coated solid rotors for the truck. I agree the brakes are way nicer but the pedal feel is still meh.


Sent from me
 
I installed the Power Stop Z36 pads front and rear at about 150 miles on a new 2024 Hemi HD2500 4WD CC using the OEM rotors. It was an improvement and there is less brake dust on the wheels.
 
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