After market fog lights wired to aux switch

[Daveburnette]

I’ve ordered a Bajadesigns fog light kit for my new 2021 Limited 2500. I’d like to wire to an aux switch so I can run them independent of the headlights. If I disconnect the factory harness, does anyone know if I’ll get a lights out warning or other code? The system is plug and play, so I can have them attached to the factory harness, which I would rather do than have a constant dash message. Thanks in advance.

 

[Myfast70]

One issue I see with the Baja Designs lights is the current draw of them vs. factory issued ones. As far as the lighting message, it can be removed by using AlfaOBD

 

[Brutal_HO]

One issue I see with the Baja Designs lights is the current draw of them vs. factory issued ones. As far as the lighting message, it can be removed by using AlfaOBD

If you're going to use AlfaOBD, why not just disable fog light dropout so they can run independent of the lights using the factory harness?

The only caveat would be the turn signal/steering angle turning them on but that can be shut down if desired by changing the angles.

Is the current draw too great to use the factory connection?

 

[Myfast70]

Yes, the BD stuff draws big power typically

 

[Ramit530]

@Myfast70 if you are referring to the Baja x2 S2 Sport lights, the current draw is only 12 W/.9 Amps
I have done similar to what your referring to, as in using the Aux switches to power lights as well as being powered through the truck wiring harness.
I have an LED reverse light that operates either by Aux Switch or Automatically off the reverse light circuit, LED lights at my running boards that can be illuminated using Aux switch or automatically when the doors are opened that are powered off the Bed Light Circuit. I used Diodes to prevent one circuit from back feeding into the other circuit.
If what I am reading of what you want to do as in have a means to turn on your Baja lights without your other lights on, you can do the same. As you noted they have a plug and play system, you could ad the Aux Switch feed using diodes to the wire harness they provide with the lights, this way not messing with any of the factory wiring.
I used these: https://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/accessories/electrical/diodes.php

 

[Daveburnette]

Looks like I’m going to enter the dark world of AlphaOBD to adjust for a 50 gal. Titan tank, so I can disable the dropout as suggested. I don’t follow the part about changing angles?

 

[Brutal_HO]

Looks like I’m going to enter the dark world of AlphaOBD to adjust for a 50 gal. Titan tank, so I can disable the dropout as suggested. I don’t follow the part about changing angles?

The fogs on either side come one under 20MPH when you turn the wheel or use the turn signal stalk. Some have complained they don't want their aftermarket fogs used with the factory fog wiring to come on like that. No real way to disable it when using factory wiring other than reducing the angle settings to 0. I believe @Jimmy07 covered this in another "fog light" thread.

 

[Myfast70]

Ramit350, sounds like you have a good handle on it. I suppose I'm used to wiring all of the bigger versions of their lights on the trophy trucks we wire, they all pull big amps.

Yes, the diodes are a great way to go and using the ones in the link you posted is much more simplified than the way we typically do them

 

[kraftwerx]

Along these lines, I am installing a PIAA light bar this weekend and wanted to confirm with other folks that the factory aux switches and relays are sufficient to power them. From what limited info I can find, they are 60w and ~5 amps. My thinking is to modify the PIAA harness and keep the factory connections to the lights, but cut it to remove relay and switch and tie into the aux switch block in the engine compartment.

Any problems with this?

Thanks, Erik

 

[Brutal_HO]

Along these lines, I am installing a PIAA light bar this weekend and wanted to confirm with other folks that the factory aux switches and relays are sufficient to power them. From what limited info I can find, they are 60w and ~5 amps. My thinking is to modify the PIAA harness and keep the factory connections to the lights, but cut it to remove relay and switch and tie into the aux switch block in the engine compartment.

Any problems with this?

Thanks, Erik

You're golden.

There is no current draw on the switch itself, it's data,

Relays and circuits are good to 40A (28A continuous) max per circuit, max total (PDU load limit) 210A.

 

[kraftwerx]

You're golden.

There is no current draw on the switch itself, it's data,

Relays and circuits are good to 40A (28A continuous) max per circuit, max total (PDU load limit) 210A.

View attachment 20906

Thanks as always. I knew this was out there somewhere, but my search foo wasn't with me.

I got the lower air dam off fairly easily and am ready to start fabricating this weekend. One question on that lower grille for folks, how the f'in hell do you get the tabs to release, particularly from the corners around the tow hooks. Fortunately I don't think I'll need this and can do all the work from behind the grill, but if I get stuck, I can't figure out how to get the tab right on the vertical bar between the grille and the tow hook and haven't even attempted to get to the one on the outside of the tow hook.

 

[boatdude1]

Thanks as always. I knew this was out there somewhere, but my search foo wasn't with me.

I got the lower air dam off fairly easily and am ready to start fabricating this weekend. One question on that lower grille for folks, how the f'in hell do you get the tabs to release, particularly from the corners around the tow hooks. Fortunately I don't think I'll need this and can do all the work from behind the grill, but if I get stuck, I can't figure out how to get the tab right on the vertical bar between the grille and the tow hook and haven't even attempted to get to the one on the outside of the tow hook.

I need to replace my lower grill as a rock went through nine.I bought a new one and looked underneath to replace it. Holy hell. There are like 12 screws holding it in place. I cannot figure out how you get them out short of taking the front bumper off. I tabled that project for now.

 

[kraftwerx]

I need to replace my lower grill as a rock went through nine.I bought a new one and looked underneath to replace it. Holy hell. There are like 12 screws holding it in place. I cannot figure out how you get them out short of taking the front bumper off. I tabled that project for now.

The screws weren't that difficult, particularly the ones in the middle once you have the air dam off. It's a bit of a two-step process. Just loosen the 8mm nut, you don't need to take it completely off, then pull the stud bolt out of the grille.

I was able to get those in just a few minutes. There is one that likes to hide behind the CTD intercooler shroud, but it's just a matter of pushing it to one side or the other. The ones in the corners of the tow hooks are a bit trickier but with a little contortion you can get a box wrench in there and it only takes a couple of partial turns to get them loose enough to pop out the studs. Just be careful not to drop them.

Where this became futile was when I tried to remove the grille and it was still in there solid. I found that on either site of the stud bolts are two tabs that have to be pried from the bumper. The ones in the middle again are manageable, but when I got to the ones in the corners, it proved to be impossible to get those tabs to free up. At this point I decided that the work I am doing is accessible from the back of the grille and gave up. I think the only way to get that grille insert out is to remove the entire bumper and IIRC, you have to take the upper grille out to get to a couple of bolts.

Hope this helps, Erik

 

[boatdude1]

The screws weren't that difficult, particularly the ones in the middle once you have the air dam off. It's a bit of a two-step process. Just loosen the 8mm nut, you don't need to take it completely off, then pull the stud bolt out of the grille.

I was able to get those in just a few minutes. There is one that likes to hide behind the CTD intercooler shroud, but it's just a matter of pushing it to one side or the other. The ones in the corners of the tow hooks are a bit trickier but with a little contortion you can get a box wrench in there and it only takes a couple of partial turns to get them loose enough to pop out the studs. Just be careful not to drop them.

Where this became futile was when I tried to remove the grille and it was still in there solid. I found that on either site of the stud bolts are two tabs that have to be pried from the bumper. The ones in the middle again are manageable, but when I got to the ones in the corners, it proved to be impossible to get those tabs to free up. At this point I decided that the work I am doing is accessible from the back of the grille and gave up. I think the only way to get that grille insert out is to remove the entire bumper and IIRC, you have to take the upper grille out to get to a couple of bolts.

Hope this helps, Erik

Thank you. It re affirms my thought that taking the bumper off is the only simple way of doing this. I plan for an all day project and do it.