RiverRunner1775
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First off let me say I believe OAT coolant is absolute garbage compared to other coolant technologies. POAT for instance is superior, but you can't mix coolant technologies or you're gonna have big problems. We have a 2016 4Runner and it has only had one coolant change at about 150K and the coolant looked new when drained. The reservoir also looks brand new, no staining, no gunk nothing. Anyway, I started to have the no heat on the drivers side issue about a month ago on my 2021 at 80K miles. A coworker with a 17 I believe has been having tons of issues with his heater core and he has made multiple attempts to flush it with a couple methods. He's made some progress but hasn't fully resolved it. He has I think 140K miles. I don't know his service history as far as coolant. So I figured I would get ahead of the problem since it just reared it's head. I bought the Lisle 60800 core flush tool and did a flush of just the core. I used about 25 PSI of air pressure along with the water pressure and both lines undone at the aluminum pipes on the side of the engine block. Which if you disconnect there be careful, the plastic bracket that holds those tubes has little push in connectors that are WEAK. Broke mine but it's fine. It fixed my heat issue. I didn't use CLR just water and air.
So I got to thinking of running a filter and I know there are kits made for diesels and a lot of commercial diesel engines come from the factory with coolant filters. But no one makes a filter kit for a 6.4 Gas. After some research I saw where a lot of 4.0 Jeep guys were installing a Wix coolant filter inline with the heater core supply line. Of course cast iron blocks, time and rust don't make for good coolant nor does it help your heater core. But it has been successful for them. So I put together the parts to do a similar setup on my 6.4. I installed it before doing a drain and flush of the old coolant just as a trial. The Wix coolant filter is rated at 27 microns and it stopped up within about 40 miles, with ZERO heat from the vents. All filters have a built in bypass but I guess the pressure from the water pump isn't enough to activate the bypass in the Wix. I could get some heat if I pushed the RPMs up though. So I picked up another filter and I already had new OAT Mopar concentrate. I did a drain and semi flush, the old coolant looked BAD. Filled it back up with 50/50 mix distilled and coolant and a new filter. I've probably ran 200 miles maybe more, and I've got solid heat. I ordered a couple more filters, this time Donaldson which according to spec are 50 micron. I figured if the Wix stops up, I'll swap over and see if a Donaldson lasts longer. I've also been keeping an eye on temps, I don't see any ill temp effects. Everything looks normal oil and coolant. If anything the coolant temps are better after the flush and refill, which is a obvious considering the way the coolant looked.. I figured I'd share the part numbers for anyone interested. As with anything there are no guarantees, but a filter is a filter. Here are the part numbers and a pic of the install. Also some pics of the old coolant and first filter ran with the factory 80k mile coolant, that stopped up in 40 miles.
Wix 24070 (You can also run Donaldson P554685 or Baldwin B5134, do not use filters with additives, filter thread size is 11/16-16)
Wix Filter Base 24763 (There are other filter base options from Baldwin and Wix, but they look to be cast steel = rust, Donaldson makes one that looks decent from aluminum)
AMZ constant tension clamps 7/8"-1" (Amazon, they fit 5/8 heater hose)
SUM-221106 (Summit Racing 45 degree 5/8 hose fittings 1/2 NPT threads and a 5/8 hose barb)
Dayco 80407 5/8 heater hose (Advance Auto, hose has molded 90s on the end, one 90 at the water pump supply and one 90 at the filter outlet, cut off any excess)
Loctite 565 thread sealant (for your filter base fittings)
You can modify this however you want. It's just the way I went. I mounted the filter housing on the frame behind the bumper on the passenger side. I had to remove a compatibility bracket and grind off a threaded nut that was pressed into the frame. Then used self tapping bolts with blue loctite to secure the base. Routed the hoses accordingly to the heater core supply and lightly zip tied them to secure. The filter is easy to access in this location and I've not had any issues as of yet. Of course the test is in infancy. You could add ball valves as well for shut offs when you change filters but you can also just clamp the hoses off when you do a filter swap. I kept the hose I removed from the water pump supply to heater core in case I need to swap back.
So I got to thinking of running a filter and I know there are kits made for diesels and a lot of commercial diesel engines come from the factory with coolant filters. But no one makes a filter kit for a 6.4 Gas. After some research I saw where a lot of 4.0 Jeep guys were installing a Wix coolant filter inline with the heater core supply line. Of course cast iron blocks, time and rust don't make for good coolant nor does it help your heater core. But it has been successful for them. So I put together the parts to do a similar setup on my 6.4. I installed it before doing a drain and flush of the old coolant just as a trial. The Wix coolant filter is rated at 27 microns and it stopped up within about 40 miles, with ZERO heat from the vents. All filters have a built in bypass but I guess the pressure from the water pump isn't enough to activate the bypass in the Wix. I could get some heat if I pushed the RPMs up though. So I picked up another filter and I already had new OAT Mopar concentrate. I did a drain and semi flush, the old coolant looked BAD. Filled it back up with 50/50 mix distilled and coolant and a new filter. I've probably ran 200 miles maybe more, and I've got solid heat. I ordered a couple more filters, this time Donaldson which according to spec are 50 micron. I figured if the Wix stops up, I'll swap over and see if a Donaldson lasts longer. I've also been keeping an eye on temps, I don't see any ill temp effects. Everything looks normal oil and coolant. If anything the coolant temps are better after the flush and refill, which is a obvious considering the way the coolant looked.. I figured I'd share the part numbers for anyone interested. As with anything there are no guarantees, but a filter is a filter. Here are the part numbers and a pic of the install. Also some pics of the old coolant and first filter ran with the factory 80k mile coolant, that stopped up in 40 miles.
Wix 24070 (You can also run Donaldson P554685 or Baldwin B5134, do not use filters with additives, filter thread size is 11/16-16)
Wix Filter Base 24763 (There are other filter base options from Baldwin and Wix, but they look to be cast steel = rust, Donaldson makes one that looks decent from aluminum)
AMZ constant tension clamps 7/8"-1" (Amazon, they fit 5/8 heater hose)
SUM-221106 (Summit Racing 45 degree 5/8 hose fittings 1/2 NPT threads and a 5/8 hose barb)
Dayco 80407 5/8 heater hose (Advance Auto, hose has molded 90s on the end, one 90 at the water pump supply and one 90 at the filter outlet, cut off any excess)
Loctite 565 thread sealant (for your filter base fittings)
You can modify this however you want. It's just the way I went. I mounted the filter housing on the frame behind the bumper on the passenger side. I had to remove a compatibility bracket and grind off a threaded nut that was pressed into the frame. Then used self tapping bolts with blue loctite to secure the base. Routed the hoses accordingly to the heater core supply and lightly zip tied them to secure. The filter is easy to access in this location and I've not had any issues as of yet. Of course the test is in infancy. You could add ball valves as well for shut offs when you change filters but you can also just clamp the hoses off when you do a filter swap. I kept the hose I removed from the water pump supply to heater core in case I need to swap back.
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