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35x12.50's rubbing slightly - hasn't always rubbed!?

relbus

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I have had 35x12.50 Nitto's on 20x9 +18 Methods since almost day one. Thuren 2" level. Factory tracbar still, Thuren swaybar. Last winter I got the truck stuck trying to rescue a buddy who had buried his sled to the handlebars in a snowy ditch. I had to get tugged out by a tow truck. My truck was just slightly off the pavement in a snowy ditch. The tow truck pulled me out, and everything was fine.
When I got home I noticed SOMETIMES when backing out of my driveway my drivers side front tire would rub briefly if the wheel was turned just right on the front mud flap. I believe if the flap wasn't there, it would not rub. It was hardly noticeable when it did rub, and didnt rub consistently. It took the perfect wheel angle and drop off my curb backing out to make it happen.

On Tuesday I finally replaced the Nitto's with Falken wildpeaks, and now its rubbing even when I turn the wheel in reverse on flat ground. I am frustrated. I do not think I NEED a tracbar, but will add one. I hate to have to ditch my mud flaps, as they do shield the rockers some.

Looking for advice. Anyone else rub slightly w/ similar specs?
 
Update: it appears one side is closer to the east Of the fender/ wheel well than the other. WTF? I am bewildered.

To further complicate things, it appears the coil has slipped on the drivers side. Upon reviewing Carli’s site they speak of this and recommend the PW isolators. So, those have been ordered and a thuren track bar. Going to get all this installed, get the truck aligned, and see where we are at.

This is frustrating. It’s a leveled truck. I’m not running anything extreme and I’m shocked even with the slipped coil to have one side closer than the other and have any rubbing.

I’ve removed the mud flaps to prevent running at the moment. Parts come in next week and I intend to get them on immediately as the truck is heading to the cabin Friday and needs to be dialed.
 
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Coil springs have no effect on axle position unless one was moved sufficiently to move the axle up or down in its travel arc by being “shorter” or “longer”. Radius arms and track bar are responsible for this and to some degree the caster adjusters.

Some pictures of under the truck may be helpful.
 
Coil springs have no effect on axle position unless one was moved sufficiently to move the axle up or down in its travel arc by being “shorter” or “longer”. Radius arms and track bar are responsible for this and to some degree the caster adjusters.

Some pictures of under the truck may be helpful.

Totally get that. I’ve installed and built custom suspensions on my Jeeps. This truck I just don’t get it. It’s a pavement queen tow rig and NOTHING should be off..kind of annoying. Your DD tow rig is supposed to be the nine you don’t have to worry about!
 
Are your castor adjustment cams on each radius arm roughly in the same orientation? How big are your mud flaps?

.

Yes. They are a mirror of one another.

So…i take a ****load of pics as I work on stuff. After referencing pics from the install, it appears the drivers coil was always pulled forward. Not that it’s right..but I overlooked it. That’s what I get for a winter install trying to do it fast after work in the garage
 
The added front height caused the track bar to pull the axle to one side. The new tires rub where the old ones didn’t as the new tires are larger. And adjustable front track bar will correct this.
 
Where did the tow truck connect to your truck to pull it out?
Something got shifted when he pulled you out. Frame tweaked? Axle pulled? stretched suspension mounting points or cracked?
 
The added front height caused the track bar to pull the axle to one side. The new tires rub where the old ones didn’t as the new tires are larger. And adjustable front track bar will correct this.
Trackbar has been ordered. It never rubbed even when the old tires were new. I am not convinced the trackbar is the fix, axle isn't shifted much... but I did order it JIC.
 
Where did the tow truck connect to your truck to pull it out?
Something got shifted when he pulled you out. Frame tweaked? Axle pulled? stretched suspension mounting points or cracked?
He pulled from my rear hitch. This was a VERY gentle pull. I wasn't stuck bad at all. He pulled using the winch/boom not a tow strap. It wasn't violent at all.
 
Hmmm.
I have BFG 35s on my PW with stock rims and have not had any rub issues. 22K miles on it.
Something has shifted.
Have you had the alingment checked since it started?
 
Hmmm.
I have BFG 35s on my PW with stock rims and have not had any rub issues. 22K miles on it.
Something has shifted.
Have you had the alingment checked since it started?

I checked the cam bolts and one seemed to be off from the mark on the bracket that I assume was made at the factory. I adjusted it back to that mark. I ordered PW isolators, and a Thuren trackbar. Once I get those installed I am going to take the truck in for an alignment.

Truck drives great. No funky wear on the last set of tires.
 
But it wasn't rubbing then right?
How many miles have been put on it since rubbing?
 
I don't know offhand. Probably 10k. When it began rubbing after the stuck, it was inconsistent and infrequent. I had to have the wheel turned just right and exit my driveway just right o make it happen. It was so inconsistent and infrequent, I honestly forgot about it. It literally only ever kissed the mud flaps when I had the wheel cranked in reverse and was coming out off my driveway and the front tire would drop off the curb at the end of my driveway. It was so slight that I barely heard it, but verified it had happened by seeing the clean spot on the mud flap where the tire had just grazed it.

Fast forward until I throw on new tires and they rub, and it all comes back to me.
 
Something shifted and may be loose.
New tires may be taller than the old ones.
Look for a common point on the frame, say crossmember, and measure to a common point on the axle, say shock mount, and see if they are the same. If so, the measure cross ways, driver shock to passenger cross mount. They should be the same. If not, it's out of square.
 
my truck has rubbed the driver's side front mud flap from day one on my 2020 PW when backing up and cranking the wheel. there is a little dip at the bottom of my driveway and when I crank the wheel rolling out into the street I get minor rub. always has done it. I bet most will do it under that scenario people just don't notice it. Only does it on the driver's side. 26000 miles later and perfect tire wear and truck drives straight I don't worry about it.
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my truck has rubbed the driver's side front mud flap from day one on my 2020 PW when backing up and cranking the wheel. there is a little dip at the bottom of my driveway and when I crank the wheel rolling out into the street I get minor rub. always has done it. I bet most will do it under that scenario people just don't notice it. Only does it on the driver's side. 26000 miles later and perfect tire wear and truck drives straight I don't worry about it.
View attachment 44508
For something like this you could just take a heat gun, heat up the plastic and push it further in a bit... or not worry about it as you do.
 
Mine isn't lifted or leveled and I have 35x12.5R20 Nittos ridge grapplers on stock rims.
No rubbing on plastics or flaps but a little on sway bar on both sides when at full lock and tire is dropped down a little.
 
Just got to thinking. I changed my tires at 200 miles and had the front end aligned to Thuren specs. I also decreased the castor to 3.5 or 4 degrees, dont remember exact. But it never has rubbed.
Maybe check the castor, which is what the bolts on the bottom adjust. Decrease it a little and see if it stops rubbing.
 
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