22 / 3500 Weight Loss - Transmission Relearn & Check Engine Issues

[KaoticDually]

What’s going on Ram Community,

I’m kind of new here this is my first actual post. I’ve been reading and skimming through different threads trying to learn more about these trucks since this is actually my first diesel truck.

I’ve got a 2022 Tradesman with the 68RFE. On July 17th I took the truck out to Texas for a little “weight loss.” The guy who did it told me I should drive it around afterwards so the transmission could relearn. I drove the truck about 15 miles, then hooked my trailer up and drove back to Florida.

Before the weight loss I’ve never had any transmission issues & has always shifted smooth. I’m not the type to put the pedal to the metal either, I gradually accelerate, especially when hauling. Since the weight loss, I’ve put roughly 2,000 miles on the truck.

Since then, I’ve had two issues pop up:

• July 29th: P0755 – Shift Solenoid B (transmission related)

• August 7th: P226C – Turbocharger Boost Control A Slow Response

Along with the codes, I’ve noticed the truck shifts smooth from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, then when it goes from 3rd to 4th there’s a small kick, and after that it’s smooth again (4th to 5th and 5th to 6th are normal).

Has anyone else experienced this after a weight loss? Could it be the transmission relearn wasn’t completed properly before I started towing heavy again? And what’s the best way to address the solenoid and turbo actuator issues?

For those who’ve been through this, did you have to do a full transmission relearn/reset, or did it come down to replacing parts? Any tips or first-hand experience would really help.

If this has already been covered before, I’d appreciate if the admins could point me in the right direction so we don’t have to start over or repeat a thread that’s already out there. I just want to make sure I’m looking in the right place.

 

[sstoner911]

Who is the tune from...my initial feeling is the tune sucks.

 

[Wheelz]

disconnect your batteries again for a few minutes to force it into relearn again and THEN drive more than 15 miles...more like 100 miles or so...If you have SOTF, you need to re-learn after going thru ALL 5 tunes with a few hundred miles are so. The trans has to re-learn the power curve of the new tune...you put too much of a load with that trailer after the tune and the trans is confused on the shift points and line pressures.....OR you can buy a separate tune to tune the 68 in there.
That P226C had to do with your VGT. How many miles did you have before you did the weight loss? Unless your tune is doing something that its not supposed to. Contact your tuner and see what they say..You can try clearing the code and just run your exhaust break ALL the time and see if it comes back.

 

[MtnRider]

First off, you towed way too soon after loading the tune, they should have performed a quick learn as well. Do you have the tuner/tunes or did they just load it and send you on your way? If not, I would suggest you purchase new tuning from a reputable tuner and a device (Ezlynk) so you can re-load tunes and get tune updates. Those one and done places leave you helpless if there is an issue.

Did you install an aftermarket air intake, are you sure all the connections are good in that area? Very rare for an actuator to fail so soon so seems suspicious.

.

 

[KaoticDually]

Who is the tune from...my initial feeling is the tune sucks.

I honestly don’t know who the tune is from.

The shop used a SoCal Diesel device plugged into the OBD-II port to load the tune, but they didn’t give me any tuner, handheld, or device to keep.

disconnect your batteries again for a few minutes to force it into relearn again and THEN drive more than 15 miles...more like 100 miles or so...If you have SOTF, you need to re-learn after going thru ALL 5 tunes with a few hundred miles are so. The trans has to re-learn the power curve of the new tune...you put too much of a load with that trailer after the tune and the trans is confused on the shift points and line pressures.....OR you can buy a separate tune to tune the 68 in there.
That P226C had to do with your VGT. How many miles did you have before you did the weight loss? Unless your tune is doing something that its not supposed to. Contact your tuner and see what they say..You can try clearing the code and just run your exhaust break ALL the time and see if it comes back.

First off, you towed way too soon after loading the tune, they should have performed a quick learn as well. Do you have the tuner/tunes or did they just load it and send you on your way? If not, I would suggest you purchase new tuning from a reputable tuner and a device (Ezlynk) so you can re-load tunes and get tune updates. Those one and done places leave you helpless if there is an issue.

Did you install an aftermarket air intake, are you sure all the connections are good in that area? Very rare for an actuator to fail so soon so seems suspicious.

.

I do have a SOTF switch, told me which setting would give the best mileage and best feel for towing and that was about it. No quick learn was done that I know of.

I didn’t cycle through the tunes during the ~15 miles I drove before towing, I just left it on one setting. I can hear the differences when I switch, but that’s the extent of it.

Truck has a stock intake, nothing aftermarket.

Mileage-wise, it had about 108,000 before the weight loss, and now it’s at 111,000 (so roughly 2,000 miles since).

I’ll try the battery disconnect and longer relearn session, and I’ll also keep the exhaust brake on to see if the turbo code comes back.

 

[MtnRider]

I honestly don’t know who the tune is from.

The shop used a SoCal Diesel device plugged into the OBD-II port to load the tune, but they didn’t give me any tuner, handheld, or device to keep.





I do have a SOTF switch, told me which setting would give the best mileage and best feel for towing and that was about it. No quick learn was done that I know of.

I didn’t cycle through the tunes during the ~15 miles I drove before towing, I just left it on one setting. I can hear the differences when I switch, but that’s the extent of it.

Truck has a stock intake, nothing aftermarket.

Mileage-wise, it had about 108,000 before the weight loss, and now it’s at 111,000 (so roughly 2,000 miles since).

I’ll try the battery disconnect and longer relearn session, and I’ll also keep the exhaust brake on to see if the turbo code comes back.

They way it works is you only have 1 tune, the SOTF switch just reduces fueling/timing etc on the same tune, it's not selecting 5 different tunes. (it selects different operating mode of the same tune)
Unfortuently you have no way of trying a different tune or going back to stock to check things out because of the way they deleted it, kind of stuck unless you buy a tuning device and all new tuning.

.

 

[Wheelz]

Hmm with 108k miles on that turbo...it's just by coincidence that the Actuator can be going out.....if the code comes back...then, your actuator is going bad.....there's a way to test it (DIY) and a few videos on YouTube to show you...Also check to see if your exhaust back pressure sensor is still there and plugged in. Check the wires to it.
Reach out to your shop and let them know whats going on.. Keep us posted.
It also sounds like they did load it with ezlynk..cause you just plug it in ,flash it and remove..cause that device is a no frills UI unless you get the one with the screen. Otherwise, its just a front end tune loader.

 

[KaoticDually]

Update:

Alright guys, I know it’s been about two weeks, but I wanted to circle back after trying the things you all suggested.

• I cleared all the codes and have driven about 1,000 miles since then.
• Went through 4 out of the 5 SOTF settings and the transmission feels a lot smoother now.
• I did hook up my trailer once for a load (two small cars, about the same weight as a bigger load with the trailer factored in). Shifts are definitely smoother overall, but there’s still a very slight kick you can feel.

On the turbo side:

• I’ve been running the exhaust brake full-time, and so far the check engine light hasn’t come back. Truck has been driving great with no hiccups.
• The check engine light for the shift solenoid B hasn’t returned either.

So my question now is…. Should I keep driving the truck without a trailer for another ~1,000 miles and cycle through that last SOTF setting before I start hauling heavier again?

I’m also considering picking up an EZLynk or something similar down the road to get a proper transmission tune once I finish this relearn stretch.

Thanks again for all the help so far — the truck is running better than it was, and I’m just trying to figure out the best next step.

 

[Wheelz]

Good to hear. You should be good now..but DONT tow in any tune mode other than 1 (stock) get a gauge to monitor your EGT's...look into the IDash or if your going to get one of the tuner screens it'll have all the PIDs you want to monitor..but all of them have the PIDs needed ..but get one so you can do a live data log to update your tune if needed..they'll want to see a data read under load to "fine tune" it..if your tuner offers that service. Good luck and have fun with it.
For a TCM tune..either calibrated power or ppei come to mind

 

[KaoticDually]

Thanks Wheelz! Appreciate the heads-up. I’ll stick to setting 1 when towing for now. I’ll also look into getting an iDash or another gauge so I can keep an eye on my EGTs and start logging data. I’ll check out Calibrated Power and PPEI for trans tune. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.