What's new
By:
Ram Heavy Duty Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

2020 2500 4x4 front outer tires wearing

Had the issue on my '21. had my alignment guy set it to Thuren specs. When we checked it, it was out of spec from the factory. :oops:
Since going to Thuren specs, no issue. I rotate every 5K miles and use balance beads so they are always in balance. 30K miles and no issues.
 
Crusty old shellback said:
Had the issue on my '21. had my alignment guy set it to Thuren specs. When we checked it, it was out of spec from the factory. :oops:
Since going to Thuren specs, no issue. I rotate every 5K miles and use balance beads so they are always in balance. 30K miles and no issues.
Click to expand...
Like due to caster if it was out
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
Not really an offset balljoint wont change tire scrub as its not a camber issue. It has a lot to do with hard cornering more than anything.
Click to expand...
Hi,
I have read those post too, however from working closely with a front end alignment shop we both concluded to the same the theory of an off set ball joint fix. He is well informed by other service technicians as well concurring in this fix. He also has told me that the dealership/s in our area have sent him trucks for this fix. I hope I did reply in good intentions on your post….maybe it’s a fix that we could research.
 
Last edited:
dstonic said:
Hi,
I have read those post too, however from working closely with a front end alignment shop we both concluded to the same the Rory of an off set ball joint fix. He is well informed by other service technicians as well concurring in this fix. He also has told me that the dealership/s in our area have sent him trucks for this fix. I hope I did reply in good intentions on your post….maybe it’s a fix that we could research.
Click to expand...
I beleive camber should be at Zero.
If the readings are not at Zero when measured, then the only way to adjust it is with offset or adjustable ball joints.
 
Crusty old shellback said:
I beleive camber should be at Zero.
If the readings are not at Zero when measured, then the only way to adjust it is with offset or adjustable ball joints.
Click to expand...
Not completely true. As you add or subtract caster you effectively turn toe into camber ever so slightly.

I agree camber should probably be at zero, I see no reason to have any camber angle.

@dstonic I believe adjustable ball joints sound like a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist.

That being said, I haven’t checked my camber because it is pointless to check since it is not adjustable. I can use my tmr alignment plates to check it if I want to.

I do my alignments at home in my garage with a tape measure and magnetic angle finder. I run almost zero toe and 4° of caster and I’ve been very happy with it.

The front outers wear because of turning. Turn in, Scrubbing, rolling the edges, etc whatever you call it. it’s just the way it works.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
Not completely true. As you add or subtract caster you effectively turn toe into camber ever so slightly.

I agree camber should probably be at zero, I see no reason to have any camber angle.

@dstonic I believe adjustable ball joints sound like a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist.

That being said, I haven’t checked my camber because it is pointless to check since it is not adjustable. I can use my tmr alignment plates to check it if I want to.

I do my alignments at home in my garage with a tape measure and magnetic angle finder. I run almost zero toe and 4° of caster and I’ve been very happy with it.

The front outers wear because of turning. Turn in, Scrubbing, rolling the edges, etc whatever you call it. it’s just the way it works.
Click to expand...
To clarify, I mean that if your camber is not at zero° it could be because your alignment is out of whack possibly due to a lift etc.

Camber is not adjustable but it can change a little if your caster and toe are off together.

When you rotate the axle to its correct spatial orientation with the caster adjustment, the camber should get closer to zero. At zero toe and zero caster everything should be zero (we don’t run zero caster but that’s how it should measure at that setting) if you have enough lift that you run out of caster adjustment you need drop
Brackets or aftermarket arms

First time I experienced this was on a Corolla that I lowered approximately 4”. The rear suspension was a beam axle with hubs bolted on either and and a sort-of trailing arm type of suspension. It had a little camber in the rear from the factory but when I dropped the car that much, the axle pivoted up and gave me toe in the rear. Adjustable camber/alignment plates fixed this. They bolt behind the hubs.

If you jump your truck, you can bend the front axle tube and F up your camber that way as well lol.
 
Rockcrawlerdude said:
Not completely true. As you add or subtract caster you effectively turn toe into camber ever so slightly.

I agree camber should probably be at zero, I see no reason to have any camber angle.

@dstonic I believe adjustable ball joints sound like a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist.

That being said, I haven’t checked my camber because it is pointless to check since it is not adjustable. I can use my tmr alignment plates to check it if I want to.

I do my alignments at home in my garage with a tape measure and magnetic angle finder. I run almost zero toe and 4° of caster and I’ve been very happy with it.

The front outers wear because of turning. Turn in, Scrubbing, rolling the edges, etc whatever you call it. it’s just the way it works.
Click to expand...
I like what I’m reading here in your post. I’m going to look into this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top