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2017 Ram heat issues, how to heater core flush?

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Brandon966

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2017 Ram 6.7 with 70K miles. Recently the heat is not as hot as it should be, the truck warms up to temp just fine, but the air blowing out is just luke warm. I notice it more in the morning when cranking up...afternoons it seems to be a little better. I live in NC so temps are in the 25-50* range this time of year. The air does not seem to warm up until at least 1-2hrs of driving and then a shutdown.

I also notice that the upper radiator hose is very stiff when this happens, and when I remove the radiator cap there is a good amount of pressure built up behind it.

All the googling I've done points to a clogged heater core? I tried to take it to a shop to do this, but I need the truck daily its hard to drop it off and leave it. How hard is this to do DIY, and does the issues I'm having sound like the heater core issue?
 
Its not hard to back flush the heater core and it should do good. I like to drain the heater core then dump some CLR in the output line let that sit for about an hour then start flushing water into the out side and let the inlet drain into a bucket you can usually see some dirt/rust and scale in the bucket when you are done
 
Flushed my heater core this winter as well. Also flushed the entire cooling system. Worked amazing…. For about 4 or 5 days. Then back to luke warm to zero heat in sub 40deg weather. Should I go ahead and replace the entire heater core?
 
Yes replace it. When they flushed mine they ruined the turbo actuator.
Water damage. $2500 a few months later
 
Bad Daddy said:
Yes replace it. When they flushed mine they ruined the turbo actuator.
Water damage. $2500 a few months later
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Then they screwed something up that should never have happened….
 
Mctylermore said:
Flushed my heater core this winter as well. Also flushed the entire cooling system. Worked amazing…. For about 4 or 5 days. Then back to luke warm to zero heat in sub 40deg weather. Should I go ahead and replace the entire heater core?
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Sounds like the heater core is blocked again you may not have got everything out. I would try flushing the system really good first with some CLR in there too to really get the rust and scale out. Before paying big money or dealing with the headache for a heater core R&R
 
AH64ID said:
Not sure how that’s even possible.
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My guess is that they didn’t isolate the heater core, and the burst of pressure burped a tiny amount of coolant into turbo actuator. Turbo has coolant flowing through itand actuator has an o ring on it to prevent this.
Less than a few weeks after the service my turbo is acting all wonky, and it finally lets go.

I have had multiple discussions with the service writer and probably should have gone right to the mgr, about how when I ask them to do something, you effing do it.
As a result I had to drive home in -25C weather with no heat, and then after the heater core was finally replaced, had the turbo and brake let go a few days later driving up the Coquihalla (highway thru hell, lol) at Christmas…
 
Bad Daddy said:
My guess is that they didn’t isolate the heater core, and the burst of pressure burped a tiny amount of coolant into turbo actuator. Turbo has coolant flowing through itand actuator has an o ring on it to prevent this.
Less than a few weeks after the service my turbo is acting all wonky, and it finally lets go.

I have had multiple discussions with the service writer and probably should have gone right to the mgr, about how when I ask them to do something, you effing do it.
As a result I had to drive home in -25C weather with no heat, and then after the heater core was finally replaced, had the turbo and brake let go a few days later driving up the Coquihalla (highway thru hell, lol) at Christmas…
Click to expand...

There is plenty of pressure already in the cooling system, more than you get from flushing.
 
And a rad cap to ensure it doesn’t happen.

Unfortunately I wasn’t able to watch the tech do his magic, but I will bet their action caused the reaction.

Bottom line is, that heater cores should just get replaced. If the trucks ran a coolant filter, they would likely last longer. Mine made it 9 years.
 
Bad Daddy said:
And a rad cap to ensure it doesn’t happen.

Unfortunately I wasn’t able to watch the tech do his magic, but I will bet their action caused the reaction.

Bottom line is, that heater cores should just get replaced. If the trucks ran a coolant filter, they would likely last longer. Mine made it 9 years.
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Replacing a heater core for no reason is rather silly when a quick back flush works and cost almost nothing to do and the new heater core could be clogged just as easy as the original if you don't flush the system when changing the heater core anyway.

The actuator failing from the flush makes no sense. O-rings can hold way more pressure than they can do with a flush. Think about it they use o-rings in hydraulics which often are over 3000psi.
 
Remember, these are Ram trucks we are talking about. The ones with leaking 3rd brake lights, and transmission lines that are held in with plastic clips that let go while towing, lol.
 
Bad Daddy said:
Remember, these are Ram trucks we are talking about. The ones with leaking 3rd brake lights, and transmission lines that are held in with plastic clips that let go while towing, lol.
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My point is when flushing you have 0 pressure going through the system only flow unlike the 21psi of pressure created by the rad cap. If the rad cap was not there the system would have no pressure only flow.
 
Bad Daddy said:
And a rad cap to ensure it doesn’t happen.

Unfortunately I wasn’t able to watch the tech do his magic, but I will bet their action caused the reaction.

Bottom line is, that heater cores should just get replaced. If the trucks ran a coolant filter, they would likely last longer. Mine made it 9 years.
Click to expand...

Ummm, the rad cap allows pressure to build… a flush shouldn’t come close to that pressure.

Your turbo actuator failed, ok.. you’re in that club now. No need to blame it on something that’s unlikely to cause it.
 
I just replaced my heater core due to no heat on the drivers side and minimal heat on the passenger side. I had flushed the core by removing heater hoses and using a garden hose, then used the cummins approved coolant system cleaner getting engine up to temp and after cool down flushing once more--still no heat. That was last year. When I got the old heater core out of the truck I flushed it on the sidewalk while tapping it against the concrete and all kinds of chunks started coming out. When I bought the truck (99k miles) the coolant looked like sludge in the reservoir. there were some threads on other chrysler/jeep/fiat/ram forums that the factory puts some stop leak in the system to ensure no leaks at hose connections when they are doing several thousands per day. This is plausible, as what come out of my heater core and reservoir looked like that. Just my .02
 
Ramovrlnd said:
I just replaced my heater core due to no heat on the drivers side and minimal heat on the passenger side. I had flushed the core by removing heater hoses and using a garden hose, then used the cummins approved coolant system cleaner getting engine up to temp and after cool down flushing once more--still no heat. That was last year. When I got the old heater core out of the truck I flushed it on the sidewalk while tapping it against the concrete and all kinds of chunks started coming out. When I bought the truck (99k miles) the coolant looked like sludge in the reservoir. there were some threads on other chrysler/jeep/fiat/ram forums that the factory puts some stop leak in the system to ensure no leaks at hose connections when they are doing several thousands per day. This is plausible, as what come out of my heater core and reservoir looked like that. Just my .02
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You always should back flush and a garden hose is usually not enough pressure plus using hot water usually gives a better chance at cleaning it.
 
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