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Good luck to you with your truck and health, and thank you for your service.

I hear ya, I’m likely looking to unload this truck (despite the fact that I love it otherwise) on something else.

Btw, that’s not dirt you see it’s just heavily undercoated, I live in the rust belt.

That is exactly what mine does. I had it at the dealer last January? With approx 9,500 miles on it. The tick has gotten significantly worse and now ticks at idle 85% of the time as well. I have not been back to the dealer as they told me it was normal egr function (obviously not). I don’t want...

I always change my oil myself. I bought 6 gallons of Delo XSP 5W40 from Advanced when they had a clearance for under $9 per gallon. I also added a fleet guard filter from Geno’s, bringing the total cost to about $45 per oil change, including tax and shipping. I’ve also used VPBE and Delvac 5w40.

You mean virgin oil analysis (VOA)? I do have baseline VOAs for the oil. No oil has iron, copper, and potassium at levels anywhere near this. The VOA is totally irrelevant to this.

No, I changed brands. I used VPBE the first change, then Mobil Delvac ESP 5w40 for the second. The most recent change I used Chevron Delo XSP 5w40. This is useful info for explaining the possible copper spike. What I don’t understand is that iron is 3x what it was prior to this at approximately...

Looking for thoughts/opinions regarding this UOA. This is the third UOA I’ve done on the truck since new. I’ve changed the oil at 3k, 9k, and 16k miles. I was hoping to see potassium starting to trend down, but that is not the case. Also, iron is now 118 and was previously 47. Copper went from...

I changed it around 3k, 9k, and 16k.

Just did my third oil change on this truck and knew the oil would be black immediately. However, this was my first time changing diesel fuel filters. I was just surprised that the rear filter looked so dirty/dark. But now I know for future reference that this is to be expected.

I have the Extang Trifecta 2.0 soft folding tonneau. I’m satisfied with it and it has held up well so far.

I’m surprised they’re replacing your transfer case. But good on them for doing so. I’m on the third seal, which is working as intended currently, but they removed the transfer case on mine to reseal the halves. They said if it eats another seal, they’re replacing the transfer case. That was...

Don’t you guys order from Geno’s? If you don’t, why not? I wouldn’t buy anything from Doc’s, personally.

I actually don’t even stop for fuel. I’m in such a hurry, I just get refueled like a Northrop B-2 Spirit to save time. I also just check the oil while I’m driving. I know where it should be at on the dipstick at 2k rpm’s. This has kept her from divorcing me for years haha.

No point in responding, this is an “I know all and I know what’s best” type. I’ve seen the same responses on other forums and facts seemingly don’t matter….carry on

Yeah, and the engine manufacturer explicitly states the most appropriate time to check it is after it has been sitting for 30 minutes….but keep on preaching.

I use a scangauge 3 to monitor soot load, along with a plethora of other things. Not sure about the 25’s, but I’d assume it would work for that model year as well.

Not a chance I’m letting anyone tear into it. I’ll trade it before that. That’s just opening a can of worms in my opinion.

While I think the tick is odd, I’m under the impression that “some” are not detrimental as mine is not always present. I’m done chasing dragons but always like to hear any info about “ticks”.